QUOTE(chum @ Apr 25 2007, 10:07 AM)

Hi Guys,
I've read the tutorial for soldering RCA plugs for component video. I'm just wondering if there is any difference at all between soldering your own plugs and buying a 3rd party component cable. From my point of view, it is easier and cheaper to buy a 3rd party component cable from ebay rather than soldering your own RCA plugs.
Is there any advantage to following the guide? Are the 3rd party cables cheap and nasty and do not offer a clearer output than soldering your own connections?
FWIW (this thread shows up on google), the cheap third-party cables on eBay and similar don't use proper co-ax for the video wires, instead using unshielded wires inside a shielded cable. The impedance on such cables is off, you get ghosting if fine bright details such as text and reticles.
If you're in the USA, it's easier and cheaper to buy a Microsoft or Monster Cable cable, but if you're in Europe, such things were never released, and import P&P is extortionate.
Far simpler to solder one yourself: Donor cables are an Xbox1 composite cable, and an Xbox 360 component cable.
Slip a screwdriver or two under the plastic sleeve of the Xbox1 plug and you should be able to slide it back intact. Unclip the metal shield, and desolder the wires, making sure to save the little black mode select wires, and removing as much hot glue as you can.
Disassembly of the 360 wire is similar: crack the plastic plug apart using a screwdriver, then use a screwdriver and soldering iron to prise apart the solder joints in the shielding. Unclip and desolder as before.
If you peel back the insulation on the 360 lead carefully, you should be able to fit the Xbox1 sleeve on and still have enough room to solder. Pinout at
http://www.gamesx.com/avpinouts/xbox.htm .
You can get a TTL S/PDIF* from pin 3 (the one next to audio right gnd if you're using a different pinout); ground for the S/PDIF is the Pin 11/Y ground**: this is a good use for the yellow composite cable, which would otherwise go to waste.
* (which is not a co-ax S/PDIF, because the voltages are different, but most devices won't mind, and you can use it to drive a TOSLINK transmitter like the one you just got from the 360 cable.)
** (Impossible to find on the interweb; to confirm it was the Y ground I had to dismantle an MS Advanced SCART Cable).
This post has been edited by MrFish: Jul 7 2010, 07:07 AM