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> Maximus 360 Litekey
letsmod
post Jan 27 2010, 09:34 PM
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QUOTE(niai @ Jan 27 2010, 12:05 AM) *

i dont understand whats the green chip if the res chip is it and whats with the 4 wiers on the green one


the video is showing the prototype not the actual litekey

YES it requires cutting and coldering just like team x's device
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Shippy
post Jan 27 2010, 10:28 PM
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What's up with them blacking out the components on the pcb? I guess they don't want someone stealing the design.
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letsmod
post Jan 27 2010, 10:39 PM
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exactly

QUOTE(Garytek @ Jan 27 2010, 12:04 PM) *

Lite-On drives with firmware version 74850C need the probe.

The ones with firmware version 83850C doesn't need the probe

83850C V2 and 93450C- the ones included in Xbox 360s manufactured after August 2009- can only be dumped via the MRA method. The Jungleflasher tutorial has more information on this method but in summary, it's a complicated and tedious soldering job.

The Litekey supposedly simplifies the MRA method a bit so you won't have to bash your head on a brick wall if you run into problems.



It is my understanding that if you want to run LT properly, on any version of lite-on you want a 100% dump so you dont loose your laser calib data. the catch is once it is already flashed you lost that info already. SO any STOCK lite-on you should be doing a 100% drive regardless of firmware.

I maybe wrong but that is what I understood talking with a few of the JF people
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penguin13579
post Jan 27 2010, 10:40 PM
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when is this coming out? or where can i buy it?
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Wompa164
post Jan 27 2010, 11:08 PM
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QUOTE(penguin13579 @ Jan 27 2010, 03:40 PM) *

when is this coming out? or where can i buy it?


Same here. Personally, I love Maximus products so I'm very much looking forward to this.
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letsmod
post Jan 27 2010, 11:55 PM
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pre-orders will start this weekend, limit stock on first run for us. ETA is between Feb 5 and Feb 12 if all goes well
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pif001
post Jan 28 2010, 12:42 AM
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im getting 2-3 of these as soon as they are available... i prefer maximus...
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garyopa
post Jan 28 2010, 01:18 AM
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QUOTE(letsmod @ Jan 27 2010, 04:39 PM) *

exactly
It is my understanding that if you want to run LT properly, on any version of lite-on you want a 100% dump so you dont loose your laser calib data. the catch is once it is already flashed you lost that info already. SO any STOCK lite-on you should be doing a 100% drive regardless of firmware.

I maybe wrong but that is what I understood talking with a few of the JF people


That is correct.

All tho, tests have shown that the "laser calib data" is much like a "factory test log", but then again I have replaced more broken Liteon drives over the last year in my repair shops then I have other drives.

I still like the idea of having a "true" 100% factory dump of the original drive, so this MRA way should be done on all Lite-On drives.

Plus even on the older drives once they have the LT firmware on them, you lose the tray open probe or decrypt functions to dump the drive, only way if you stuck with no original backup or unsure what is wrong with the drive, you need to do the MRA way to read the drive back again after you have LT flashed it!
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khull
post Jan 28 2010, 08:45 AM
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QUOTE(garyopa @ Jan 28 2010, 01:18 AM) *

That is correct.

All tho, tests have shown that the "laser calib data" is much like a "factory test log", but then again I have replaced more broken Liteon drives over the last year in my repair shops then I have other drives.

I still like the idea of having a "true" 100% factory dump of the original drive, so this MRA way should be done on all Lite-On drives.

Plus even on the older drives once they have the LT firmware on them, you lose the tray open probe or decrypt functions to dump the drive, only way if you stuck with no original backup or unsure what is wrong with the drive, you need to do the MRA way to read the drive back again after you have LT flashed it!


doesn't the team x's chip enable the same MRA 100% factory dump as well?
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Charbless
post Jan 28 2010, 09:32 AM
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QUOTE(garyopa @ Jan 28 2010, 02:18 AM) *

That is correct.

All tho, tests have shown that the "laser calib data" is much like a "factory test log", but then again I have replaced more broken Liteon drives over the last year in my repair shops then I have other drives.

I still like the idea of having a "true" 100% factory dump of the original drive, so this MRA way should be done on all Lite-On drives.

Plus even on the older drives once they have the LT firmware on them, you lose the tray open probe or decrypt functions to dump the drive, only way if you stuck with no original backup or unsure what is wrong with the drive, you need to do the MRA way to read the drive back again after you have LT flashed it!


But there are also loads of reports that people who got refurb from ms have blank laser calib data so i dont really see what the big deal is about it.

I really dont see the point in this sort of thing mod chips is what we really need which can hold two firmwares stock and modded or for more people to be working on like jtag hack.
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n1tro
post Jan 28 2010, 03:41 PM
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QUOTE(garyopa @ Jan 27 2010, 04:19 PM) *

If you ever lose all your backups and info on your PC that you dump the drive, and wish to update when a new fw comes out, you need to dump the drive again.

Plus those flashing away with the new LT firmware release even on older liteon drives that could read the key via the "serial dongle" or the double-time open tray decrypt tray, will need to use the MRA method to be able to dump the drive in the future, as once the LT firmware is inplace, all the older ways of re-dumping the drive have been removed.


why has the re-dumping of firmware been removed?
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d4m4n
post Jan 28 2010, 04:33 PM
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QUOTE(n1tro @ Jan 28 2010, 04:41 PM) *

why has the re-dumping of firmware been removed?


Maybe to prevent M$ from detecting the firmware.

You don't need any of these useless Xecuter LT or Maximus Litekey devices. Just dump with a 22 ohm resistor and a switch. Save your original firmware for future reflashing. There is no need to read the LT firmware when you got the original.
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letsmod
post Jan 28 2010, 04:51 PM
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QUOTE(d4m4n @ Jan 28 2010, 07:33 AM) *

Maybe to prevent M$ from detecting the firmware.

You don't need any of these useless Xecuter LT or Maximus Litekey devices. Just dump with a 22 ohm resistor and a switch. Save your original firmware for future reflashing. There is no need to read the LT firmware when you got the original.


your correct they are not needed, they are more for simplicity sake. Think about you have to disassemble dive every time or solder the litekey in and flash using a simple tray in or out to perform the same function as a switch.

This post has been edited by letsmod: Jan 28 2010, 04:51 PM
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garyopa
post Jan 28 2010, 05:52 PM
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QUOTE(d4m4n @ Jan 28 2010, 10:33 AM) *

You don't need any of these useless Xecuter LT or Maximus Litekey devices. Just dump with a 22 ohm resistor and a switch. Save your original firmware for future reflashing. There is no need to read the LT firmware when you got the original.


That is true, if you are the owner of the machine and keep it for yourself forever

Except for people like me, I buy/sell machines, and repair 360's. -- And good god, it is makes it harder now when you get machines in that have been flashed with LT, and you can't dump the drive any more except by cutting the traces and using a switch and 22ohm resistor. -- Everytime I see a dead Liteon drive during my repairs, I throw them out and install a nice shiny factory BenQ drive, as they seem to be the best, and less trouble-free and longer-life-span.
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n1tro
post Jan 28 2010, 09:44 PM
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QUOTE(d4m4n @ Jan 28 2010, 03:33 PM) *

Maybe to prevent M$ from detecting the firmware.

You don't need any of these useless Xecuter LT or Maximus Litekey devices. Just dump with a 22 ohm resistor and a switch. Save your original firmware for future reflashing. There is no need to read the LT firmware when you got the original.


i doubt this is to prevent MS from detecting the firmware...to me it sounds like it was done on purpose so that users are forced to buy this maximus device for future updates if they dont want to always solder on the switch to dump the firmware
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