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> PS3 Controller Versions and TP Spots, DualShock 3 and Six-Axis
IAmMcLovin12345
post Sep 26 2012, 11:37 PM
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QUOTE(RDC @ Sep 26 2012, 10:25 PM) *

That's an MSU_V3.5X and the TP spots are listed on the first page of this thread.

You have [ ] (TP30) and X (TP31) correct.

If that orange dot is supposed to be O it's incorrect. O is TP32, which is right next to TP33, which is for the /\ button. All of those TP spots are right there next to the 2 you already have marked. You can follow the line from the TP33, TP32, TP35, TP34 marking right to them. TP33, TP32 are in the top of that little group of 4 there, while TP35, TP34 are on the bottom.

CODE

     []
  X   /\  O
       35 34


Remember that TP18 is the Common connection for those buttons, which is to the right of the [ ] in your pic there in the row of 3 TP spots, TP25, TP18, TP57.



Like this

IPB Image

?? thank you ??
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RDC
post Sep 26 2012, 11:40 PM
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Yup, minus that other O spot there on the right.
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RDC
post Nov 1 2012, 02:39 PM
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Thread updated with the latest MSU_VX6_0.06 version board.
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diabolusbr
post Apr 10 2013, 06:45 PM
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Hey guys, I know this is an old thread that is constantly updated by RDC (thanks a lot), don't know if anyone still checks for questions, though. Thought I'd risk it here first before creating a new thread.

So, apparently my controller is some version of the MSU_V3.5X and I'm trying to do the usual: add an extra X button to it.

So I was thinking.... could I solder the wires to the X and TP18 points on the daughter board's connections ? I know I would have to scrape a little of the carbon off, but my main question is, would the daughter board as a whole lose contact to the main board due to the extra space from the solder (on the ones that aren't soldered)?

Let me know your input... thanks in advance
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RDC
post Apr 11 2013, 06:46 AM
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Welcome.

That will make a mess of the DB connection unless you were to use extremely thin wire and a pretty small solder joint, plus it's really pointless, since the 3.5X already has nice TP spots on the back of the board for both of those connections, so you don't even have to take the controller completely apart. You'd be making far more work for yourself with issues that would eventually turn up doing it the other way.


This post has been edited by RDC: Apr 11 2013, 06:47 AM
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diabolusbr
post Apr 11 2013, 08:43 AM
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QUOTE(RDC @ Apr 11 2013, 06:46 AM) *

Welcome.

That will make a mess of the DB connection unless you were to use extremely thin wire and a pretty small solder joint, plus it's really pointless, since the 3.5X already has nice TP spots on the back of the board for both of those connections, so you don't even have to take the controller completely apart. You'd be making far more work for yourself with issues that would eventually turn up doing it the other way.


Thanks for the reply, RDC. Apparently I said the wrong controller. The one I have is some kind of MSU_VX3_0.07 but mine has 0840 (on the top left of the BOTTOM side) instead of the 0842. And that is exactly why I was thinking about soldering on the daughter board contact on the main board. Because even though I have a TP18, I don't have a TP spot for the X. I could try soldering the pin 60 on the chip but I really think I would do better with something a little bigger like the contacts from the DB.
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RDC
post Apr 11 2013, 08:52 AM
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That number is more for production run data versus the controller version.

You'd be better off soldering to pin 60 of the MCU versus the DB connection. With 30awg wire, small solder and a little patience it's not really that difficult of a solder joint to make. Since it's right on the corner of the chip, as long as you're careful and use the proper tools and parts, the chance of bridging pins together is minimal. There is always the Via for the X button as well, either of which is far better than using the DB connections.


This post has been edited by RDC: Apr 11 2013, 08:53 AM
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thatsjdmyo
post May 15 2013, 10:38 PM
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MSU_V2, MSU_V2.5 (Six-Axis) MSU_VX (DS3)

IPB Image
TP25 - COM 1
TP26 - COM 2

TP32 - PS
TP33 - Start
TP34 - R3
TP35 - L3
TP36 - Select

TP38 - [ ]
TP39 - X
TP40 - O
TP41 - /\
TP42 - R1
TP43 - R2

TP45 - L1
TP46 - L2
TP47 - DL
TP48 - DD
TP49 - DR
TP50 - DU

TP62 - V (Common Line for Home Button)

There is no TP spot for the COM 3 line on this version of board, best place to use is one of the solder joints of the L3/R3 buttons.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hello RDC I appreciate the help that you are giving out to people on the forum and also as for myself. This is an old forum but hopefully I will get a reply from you. As the pictures and details you had given out, the picture above is the same model as mine and I would like to modify it but I have a few questions to ask before I start because I'm slightly confused and lost. Pretty much I got tactile switches. I would like to set my tactile switches as my "X" button and my "O" button. Now that I've got my wires set to.. TP39 and TP40 would I have to set 2 more wires on TP26 for com2? I've seen tutorials on "MSU_VX5" they would set 1 wire to the top pin of the chip ("X") 2 wires into TP18 ("COM2") and TP20 ("O") which I assume. but as for mine will I also set 2 wires onto TP26 (COM2)?
Appreciate for the help. Thanks.
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RDC
post May 17 2013, 02:07 AM
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If you have that V2, V2.5 or VX version board, then you use..

TP39 for X

TP40 for O

TP26 for the common connection for X and O
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odingalt
post May 23 2013, 03:35 AM
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Greetings folks,

Opened up some brand new pink PS3 Sony wireless dual shock controllers to find yet another new circuit board. This one is the VX7.

Attached are some raw pics. I apologize for not having the time to do hi-res board scans. I also apologize but I do not have time to do a write-up detailing the differences on the new VX7 board compared to previous boards. In short summary, the battery and the MCU are identical to the previous VX6 board. If you have a favorite modchip that worked with VX6, it will work on VX7 as well with no software modifications required.

Overall view:

IPB Image

Frontside:

IPB Image

Backside:

IPB Image
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odingalt
post May 23 2013, 03:47 AM
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The below photo shows you the COM1 and COM2 points (as well as the other points I use on my modchip, as well as one possible wire placement recommendation)

Brought to you by the guys at Viking Controllers :-)

IPB Image

IPB Image

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cunape84
post May 23 2013, 11:52 PM
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QUOTE(i7vSa7vi7y @ Apr 29 2012, 01:03 AM) *

ASUKA REV: 1.06

The X is R1 and the [ ] is O on this pic.
I'm adding O and X mod but the points are wrong on this image.


Sorry on this model ASUKA REV: 1.06 where cain i solder to get a "x" and "o" button like scuf.. Can i solder in the directly in the motherboard can u show some picts about. Thanks alot
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RDC
post May 24 2013, 12:40 AM
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I have already posted the spots for the Asuka, they were correct then, and they still are.
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cunape84
post May 24 2013, 09:17 AM
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QUOTE(RDC @ May 24 2013, 01:40 AM) *

I have already posted the spots for the Asuka, they were correct then, and they still are.



ok so ther is no tp point for X or O? rigth?
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RDC
post May 24 2013, 11:42 AM
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Nope. Yep.
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