QUOTE(sthetix @ Apr 2 2009, 03:55 AM)

RDC :
Pin 3 : must be on 3.3 V to Close, and GND to Eject (Pick either one, right), USE SPDT switch
What about pin 4 ?
For Lite-On, must I put 3.3V to pin 4? or NC ?
Thanks
Don't mean to step on your toes RDC, just thought I would hit this one-
Pin 4 only matters for Hitachi drives, except 78 and 79's. For All drives, pin 4 on 3.3V puts the drive into a normal operating state, simulating the same setting that comes from the motherboard.
If you are building this simply to do a liteon, with no intention of doing any other drive, or never doing a hitachi <78 then you only need a DPST for power, connecting the 5v and 12v, and a SPDT for the eject, or DPDT if using an indicator led.
When you do your liteon drive, connect the drive first with the sata and your homebrew power adapter we are discussing here. Don't forget to plug in your probe! ( easy to incorporate into this same device if also homebrew) After everything is connnected, set the DPST for power in the on position and the eject to the closed position, then power up your pc. Once booted into windows or dos, and you see that the drive is recognized, hit the eject button, ejecting the tray. Then hit the power switch to off, and then return the eject to the closed position. Push the drive halfway back in, then hit the power switch to restore power. You are ready to proceed using the probe! If you have problems getting the key using the probe, you may need to experiment with the tray, moving it alil further closed or less. Personally, I close it to where the cut out section stops being straight and starts to curve, but that is a matter for another thread. Outside of that, you should be golden.