New Version of Wireless Controller Board, CG, Looky what M$ did... Options

[RDC]

The wiper is the center lead of the Triggers potentiometer. If you have the PIC setup to output a high signal for fire then all ya really need to do is connect that to the wiper thru some low value Resistor or wire up the optocoupler correctly, not sure how you went about that on the old ones and are going about that part, but there are a couple ways to do it there.

[SpArTaN323853]

well on the older boards all I had to do was connect the output pin of the RT to the pin on the PIC with a 1K ohm resistor between. Then I would drive the pin to low to produce a RT push. I also wired up the X and Y buttons to my PIC as well. On the old board I used a dual channel optocoupler and wired them with that. I was trying to use the same kind of setup for the trigger, but I wasn't having any luck. If I use the D213 dual channel optocoupler to wire up the the trigger do you know where I need to connect which wires. Datasheet There is a link to the datasheet. I also have some of 4N27 optocouplers on hand. If I use that how would I connect that. Here is the datasheet for that one as well. Datashee 4N27


Thanks

[RDC]

Do the same as ya did on the older version board, just drive the pin high instead of low thru a 1k or so. That means you'll have to reconfigure those ports, but it'll work that way, this board is just backwards how the Triggers work is all.

If ya can't alter the code to do that then just wire up the optocoupler or phototransistor so that the voltage of the trigger there (top lead, RT2 in all of my diagrams) gets to the wiper (output pin, RT1) of the Trigger. On the older version board RT2 was ground and either shorting that to RT1 or driving RT1 low would make the Trigger fire, this new board is backwards and RT2 is voltage, so ya have to either drive RT1 high or wire it up so the opto/photo does.

[MeKiwi]

As far as I know the Halo controllers are the new version like this from what I've been hearing, but I haven't seen another one personally. This one came from a Black Wireless that comes with the PnC kit, but the next one I bought was the old version board. I'm sure before long they'll be turning up in all of the controllers though.

Just thought I'd let everyone know that I have 2 green Halo controllers and both are the old setup, NOT the new CG one. Was very surprised to find that out. However, all of the Macfarlane Spartan and Covenant controllers (the ones with the glossy prints) I've seen are the new CG setup.

[RDC]

I meant the McFarlane Halo ones mainly, and have only heard that the 'stock' Halo edition ones were, guess they're mixing and matching there, unless everyone I heard say Halo edition meant the McFarlane ones instead of the Halo 3 console edition 'greenie' ones, Thanks for the info MeKiwi.

This post has been edited by RDC: Nov 15 2007, 02:38 AM

[Fallback]

Do the same as ya did on the older version board, just drive the pin high instead of low thru a 1k or so. That means you'll have to reconfigure those ports, but it'll work that way, this board is just backwards how the Triggers work is all.

If ya can't alter the code to do that then just wire up the optocoupler or phototransistor so that the voltage of the trigger there (top lead, RT2 in all of my diagrams) gets to the wiper (output pin, RT1) of the Trigger. On the older version board RT2 was ground and either shorting that to RT1 or driving RT1 low would make the Trigger fire, this new board is backwards and RT2 is voltage, so ya have to either drive RT1 high or wire it up so the opto/photo does.

Im trying to understand exactly what you mean.



I have successfully done the triggers it like its shown above in the past with the 10k resistors... So how would it look compared to the above when modding the common ground controllers? Any help would be appreciated.







This post has been edited by Fallback: Jan 11 2008, 04:44 AM

[RDC]

Im trying to understand exactly what you mean.

I have successfully done the triggers it like its shown above in the past with the 10k resistors... So how would it look compared to the above when modding the common ground controllers? Any help would be appreciated.

Same deal with the CG controller board, just do it the exact same way. The difference is how the controller is set up (new CG goes high instead of low when the Trigger is pulled) You still put the Resistor in the same place and wire up the new button to the same spots, nothing at all needs to be done differently.

[Fallback]

Thanks!!!! Using your diagram I have a Mcfarlane Halo pad almost fully hacked except for the sync button. Any idea on what points I need a wire to for that button?

[Fallback]

I reread the whole thread and noticed that you answered my question already. Thanks again!

The things that are the same and will be interchangeable between this and the older version Wireless board are the...

Stick
Triggers
LB/RB switches
Case/Shell
Motors and their Connectors
PnC Connectors
Headset Connector
Sync switch

[Fallback]

That's not ground, it's voltage. The Triggers on this version board go high (voltage to wiper) to activate, on the older version matrix board they went low (ground to wiper) to activate. It's still a full common ground controller, the Triggers are Analog like the Sticks are and don't follow that same setup. They're still connected to the same ground everything else is though to keep them 'off' thru the 10k of the POT.

Ok. Since RT2 is voltage I am having a problem as I am modding this PCD to be used with a saturn pad that only has 1 ground. I need to be able to "activate" the triggers with the same ground as the rest of the buttons. How can I do that?

[RDC]

The easiest way would be to use Transistors. You can use a PNP Transistor to invert that whole setup and use ground to turn them on then. When the Base of the PNP Transistor is low it'll turn 'on' the Collector and Emitter, which you'd have wired to the Trigger on the 360 controller. Base of the Transistor to the new button in question (signal side, not the ground side, ya want it so when the button is pressed the Base is connected to ground) Collector goes to RT1 and then Emitter to RT2.

[groupbmonster]

ok so im pretty noob at controller mods and went to do my first one and found i have this new board

i want to add an a and b button..... where should i connect the grounds?
also can someone direct me to the correct vias to solder to so i can double check that i am using the correct ones for the positive?

any help would be awesome..... thanx

plz dont i are noob

[Fallback]

The easiest way would be to use Transistors. You can use a PNP Transistor to invert that whole setup and use ground to turn them on then. When the Base of the PNP Transistor is low it'll turn 'on' the Collector and Emitter, which you'd have wired to the Trigger on the 360 controller. Base of the Transistor to the new button in question (signal side, not the ground side, ya want it so when the button is pressed the Base is connected to ground) Collector goes to RT1 and then Emitter to RT2.

THANKS!

EDIT: OK so I don't use the resistors... I just use the PNP Transistor wired to RT1 & RT2... The last connection on the PNP Transistor is then connected to a ground (common ground in my case) to create a button press and RT3 is not used at all. Is this all correct?

Also is there any particular PNP transistor I should get?

This post has been edited by Fallback: Jan 19 2008, 03:46 AM

[RDC]

ok so im pretty noob at controller mods and went to do my first one and found i have this new board

i want to add an a and b button..... where should i connect the grounds?
also can someone direct me to the correct vias to solder to so i can double check that i am using the correct ones for the positive?

any help would be awesome..... thanx

plz dont i are noob

Ground is ground, you can use any spot for that connection, TP2 and TP22 on the back side of the board are real good ones for that. As for the A and B vias to use, be VERY careful scraping them down and soldering the wire to them, if they get messed up it would be a real witch to fix that thing back up so it worked again.

Green is A, Red is B

THANKS!

EDIT: OK so I don't use the resistors... I just use the PNP Transistor wired to RT1 & RT2... The last connection on the PNP Transistor is then connected to a ground (common ground in my case) to create a button press and RT3 is not used at all. Is this all correct?

Also is there any particular PNP transistor I should get?

No, if you connect the Base of the Transistor to ground it'll be on all the time and a 10k or so Resistor should be used between the Base and Emitter leads to make sure it stays off when it's not used, and unless you leave the Triggers installed yes a 10k will still need to be installed there as well. You want the Base lead to be wired to whatever button you're going to press that ya want to be the Trigger, so when that button is pressed THEN the Base is connected to ground, are ya pickin up what I'm layin down? Any small signal type PNP Transistor will do, it's just being used as a switch.

[Fallback]

I am trying to follow what you are saying. Here is a diagram of what I have now which is not working. What am I doing wrong?