Logitech Wireless Button Sensitivity Issue, Face button insensitivity. Options

[kaidomac]

Just some tips: I have 10 Logitech wireless controllers; 6 black ones and 4 green ones. I believe the green ones are a newer model; they do not have the A/B/X/Y insensitivity problem. That issue drove me nuts; I much prefer to use my green ones. Also, they are MUCH lighter than the black ones (no vibration in the greenies). They still have the really sensitive left/right triggers though

This post has been edited by kaidomac: Dec 5 2006, 10:50 PM

[SpikeMage]

Im pretty sure the black one are the new model.

[kaidomac]

Im pretty sure the black one are the new model.

I'm not so sure; the black model sells for cheaper than the green model and the black model is not longer listed on the Logitech website - only the green is.

Logitech Wireless "Usability Mod" Mini-FAQ

Thank you SO much for this! Definitely giving this a try this weekend!

[HandledOut]

Yeh the green ones were the first model released (i got them a few days after they were shipped). Also it appears those numbers i found on the PCB's of the black ones and green ones do infact atleast represent a different batch number of some sort. Also, being those numbers are lower on the green ones would indicate they were manufactured first.

Anyways, yeh the green ones are far superior to the black ones, you don't even have to press the button all the way on mine anymore to get it to work. And the trigers, dear lord are they sensitive.

Even after doing the following, the green ones are far more sensitive...

i've just now take the rubber from a S type and put it in the black one. The sensitivity is greater, but not like the green ones. i also for the heck of it sanded down the pads on the black controllers rubber like you all and sanded down the contacts on the the black PCB until it was all dull silver and not shiny. This is a improvement over the S type rubber, but still not like the green ones.

Basically, if you want a logitech wireless to be great and not just standard or above standard alittle (after sanding), then you need to find/get the green ones.

i'm done working on these, i'm actually happy enough with the sanded down rubber and PCB to use it and see if over time the sensivity increases (although the triggers still are no were near the ones on the green ones). The whole procedure of filing down the contacts on both the rubber and PCB took me at the very most 5 minutes. Let me put it like this, i have taken apart and switched/sanded/replaced pieces on the 2 controllers 4 times since i first posted (which was like 30 minutes ago including the time to post/type).


ALSO, i would like to add that next to the green wireless logitech controller, the other controller i find great is the "Psyclone" if you can live with the placement of the blak/white/back/start buttons. This model is layed out like the original xbox controller before the "S" type, it is green, and it is very nice to touch with the black rubber handles (i wish all controllers were made of they same plastic/rubber product these are). Although it is much smaller, it is probably the heaviets. Alhough i'm not sure if this makes sense, but it is a heavy in a good way. These controllers come in a pair and have 1 dongle reciever for both controllers. They are very old and i'm not sure if they make or even sell them anymore, but they are really good for the 20usd i paid for them brand new years ago. Last thing that sorta sucks is that they take 3 triple AAA batteries, but they last a VERY long time.

i have tried i know atleast 10 different types of wired controllers, and 10 types of wireless controllers, these 2 models are the best i have found so far for the xbox (the green logitech is the best wireless controller i have ever used for anything).

This post has been edited by HandledOut: Dec 5 2006, 11:19 PM

[HandledOut]

Also, something that hasn't been mentioned is that these controllers seem to take their id by first come first serve. For instance, if you take 2 green controllers which are both powered up, then you plug in the reciever, it's a toss of the coin which one gets that reciever. Only way i know to set them right is to take the batteries out of oen controller and connect one, then replace the batteries and connect that. After you do this though, it seems they both keep their id/band and work fine until you unplug them both (not just one, both). Then you have to repeat the same process. This is not a big deal if you are not lazy and don't mind passing the controller, but i'm lazy like that.

[kaidomac]

Also, something that hasn't been mentioned is that these controllers seem to take their id by first come first serve. For instance, if you take 2 green controllers which are both powered up, then you plug in the reciever, it's a toss of the coin which one gets that reciever. Only way i know to set them right is to take the batteries out of oen controller and connect one, then replace the batteries and connect that. After you do this though, it seems they both keep their id/band and work fine until you unplug them both (not just one, both). Then you have to repeat the same process. This is not a big deal if you are not lazy and don't mind passing the controller, but i'm lazy like that.

I haven't had any issues...the receivers have a black button; you push the black button for a few seconds to put it in "pair" mode, then hit a key on the controller you want to match it to. After that it stays in memory until you replace the batteries. At least, that's how it works for mine...

[HandledOut]

I'll have to try that, i thought that button was for just reestablishing a connection. i actually have to press that when the the other Psy controllers are on ports 3 and 4 to get it to link to the logitech controller, although i never thought about pushing a button the contoller (it just linked to a 1 of the 2 at random). Think that would solve the problem though, so thanks. Also, what i have experienced before which is similar, is just pluging in both recievers, and pushed A over and over on one of the controllers until it linked (takes like 1 second), then it would be linked. However, it would not always be linked to the same reciever.

Thanks for the tip.

[kaidomac]

I'll have to try that, i thought that button was for just reestablishing a connection. i actually have to press that when the the other Psy controllers are on ports 3 and 4 to get it to link to the logitech controller, although i never thought about pushing a button the contoller (it just linked to a 1 of the 2 at random). Think that would solve the problem though, so thanks. Also, what i have experienced before which is similar, is just pluging in both recievers, and pushed A over and over on one of the controllers until it linked (takes like 1 second), then it would be linked. However, it would not always be linked to the same reciever.

Thanks for the tip.

That's very odd, and you're welcome I believe that the Logitechs have an 11-channel chip in them, so you can have a bunch of controllers in the same area operating without interference. You might want to cycle all the batteries to erase the controller memory links, then remap them to each receiver. After you pair them, I believe that they will stay linked as long as (1) you don't change the batteries in the controllers and (2) don't move the controller to a different port (not 100% sure about #2). If a receiver's LED is blinking, that means one of two things: (1) that it hasn't been paired to a controller or (2) that the controller that is paired to it has not pressed a button to "wake up" the connection. The startup procedure is something like this:

1. Turn on Xbox
2. Receiver gets power
3. Receiver goes into "wait mode" and green LED blinks
4. Controller goes into "wait mode" and red LED blinks
5. User presses a button on the controller that has previously been paired to that receiver
6. Receiver goes into "paired mode"; LED will now only blink when a user presses a controller button

This assumes that your controller is paired to a receiver already. If not just hold down the receiver's black button for a few seconds and then tap a button on the controller while the receiver's LED is blinking rapidly. This whole thing sounds more complicated than it really is; it only takes about 30 seconds to pair all 4 controllers. Logitech's instructions are kind of confusing, that's all. You can "wipe" the controller memory by removing the batteries and putting new ones in, then re-pairing it once. After that you are all set.

Edit - I will play with mine later and write out better instructions...

This post has been edited by kaidomac: Dec 6 2006, 02:58 AM

[col_klink]

Handledout, what rubber did you take from the S. The d-pad, or the face button rubber? I used the D pad rubber, and beside some trimming, it works great.

[kaidomac]

Yeh the green ones were the first model released (i got them a few days after they were shipped). Also it appears those numbers i found on the PCB's of the black ones and green ones do infact atleast represent a different batch number of some sort. Also, being those numbers are lower on the green ones would indicate they were manufactured first.

Anyways, yeh the green ones are far superior to the black ones, you don't even have to press the button all the way on mine anymore to get it to work. And the trigers, dear lord are they sensitive.

Even after doing the following, the green ones are far more sensitive...

i've just now take the rubber from a S type and put it in the black one. The sensitivity is greater, but not like the green ones. i also for the heck of it sanded down the pads on the black controllers rubber like you all and sanded down the contacts on the the black PCB until it was all dull silver and not shiny. This is a improvement over the S type rubber, but still not like the green ones.

Basically, if you want a logitech wireless to be great and not just standard or above standard alittle (after sanding), then you need to find/get the green ones.

i'm done working on these, i'm actually happy enough with the sanded down rubber and PCB to use it and see if over time the sensivity increases (although the triggers still are no were near the ones on the green ones). The whole procedure of filing down the contacts on both the rubber and PCB took me at the very most 5 minutes. Let me put it like this, i have taken apart and switched/sanded/replaced pieces on the 2 controllers 4 times since i first posted (which was like 30 minutes ago including the time to post/type).
ALSO, i would like to add that next to the green wireless logitech controller, the other controller i find great is the "Psyclone" if you can live with the placement of the blak/white/back/start buttons. This model is layed out like the original xbox controller before the "S" type, it is green, and it is very nice to touch with the black rubber handles (i wish all controllers were made of they same plastic/rubber product these are). Although it is much smaller, it is probably the heaviets. Alhough i'm not sure if this makes sense, but it is a heavy in a good way. These controllers come in a pair and have 1 dongle reciever for both controllers. They are very old and i'm not sure if they make or even sell them anymore, but they are really good for the 20usd i paid for them brand new years ago. Last thing that sorta sucks is that they take 3 triple AAA batteries, but they last a VERY long time.

i have tried i know atleast 10 different types of wired controllers, and 10 types of wireless controllers, these 2 models are the best i have found so far for the xbox (the green logitech is the best wireless controller i have ever used for anything).

I totally agree, the green Logitechs are by far the best Xbox controller I've ever tried. That's so weird that they came out first...they made the design WORSE with the subsequent release of the black controller. I was going to sell all of my black controllers because I like the green ones so much better, but I'll give the filing thing a shot to see if it helps enough.