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> Xbox 360 Laptop / Portable
jhax01
post Apr 28 2013, 05:57 AM
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Ok, so I guess youtube vids are frowned upon so I'll try this again with pictures instead. smile.gif

I started this project because I travel quite a bit for work and usually end up with quite a bit of down time in hotels. Being more of a PC gamer, I initially built a pretty much no compromise custom PC in a custom case to take with me, but because of running multiple full size graphic cards, it was kind of large and cumbersome. Over time, I realized I was no longer lugging it along with me because of the inconvenience factor. So then I started eyeballing the dusty old Xbox 360 -- it was purchased for my son but he ended up gravitating to the Nintendo / Wii / Mario end of the spectrum so the Xbox didn't get used at all. Initially I thought about just bringing the whole thing along, but I stumbled across Ben Heck's projects and then eventually onto some other portable mods which spurred me to make one myself.

Here is a pic of my first attempt at an xbox laptop / portable. It's based on a design I came across while looking at other people's work on YT. Most notably, the bottom chassis is built from a single sheet of aluminum which was bent into a tub using a metal brake. The entire top half was taken from a Dell XPS 17 inch laptop with a 1080p screen (led screen, casing, etc..). I ended up having to adapt my own hinge system as the Dell hinges were not easily usable. And while it is far from being cosmetically pleasing or complete, it is perfectly functional and portable, if not a little on the bulky side...

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Which brings me to my next project -- making a smaller and more portable one. With my first one, I left all the rear ports intact and kept the optical drive. As I've researched more into the RGH / dual NAND mods out there, that really seems to be the best bet to add some more functionality to the Xbox while still retaining the ability to use XBL.

To start off my project, I settled on using the complete monitor housing from an Asus Zenbook UX31E. Mostly because it's very, very thin. Also, using the whole laptop housing gives the added benefit of including Wi-Fi antennas. This is important because the Wi-Fi module will be inside an aluminum box, essentially.

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For materials, I'm using .080 thick Aluminum sheet in 3003 alloy for the tub and .125 thick aluminum sheet in 6061 alloy for the top plate. 3003 is fairly rigid while still being maleable enough for my purposes. The 6061 is *very* rigid and will provide a good, solid mounting plate for the monitor housing as well as provide structural support for the entire device.

To bend the tub into shape, I am using an 18" metal brake available from Harbor Freight for about $40. Because it's cheap and not the sturdiest thing ever, it is important to invest in a few clamps to make sure the piece doesn't move while it is being bent. And pretty much, the rule of thumb is if you have more room, add another clamp!

Since I have already gone so far as making the tub, I took a couple shots showing the metal brake and a typical setup.

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As far as cutting and working the aluminum sheet goes -- woodworking tools do just fine. Be prepared to go through more blades than normal, but they reasonably good cuts, etc... For myself, I just used a jigsaw to make cuts and an angle grinder to fine tune things -- though be careful with the grinder as it can take off more than you want in a heartbeat.

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The completed tub:

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One thing that confounded me initially was that you have to make sure that when you are calculating the outer dimensions that you factor in the thickness of the material and the radius of the bend. In my particular case, because the 3003 is soft enough, the bend radius was equivalent to the material thickness -- so for each side, I needed to account for .16 inches. (bend radius of .080 + material thickness of .080)

The top plate was made by just tracing the outline of the monitor housing on the aluminum and cutting. The housing hinges were then bolted to the top plate. Notice that both the top plate and tub are notched out to accomodate the hinge.

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At this point, I had to remove the actual lcd panel from the monitor housing because the stock lcd was both broken and not compatible with any LVDS driver board I could find. I settled on a Chimei panel N133-BGE-L41 which was in a frame so I had to completely disassemble the panel to the bare sheets to get it to come even close to fitting. The Asus monitor housing is held together completely by glue so using a hair dryer I was able to get the bezel off without bending it and installed the new panel. Unfortunately, it hasn't gone back together the way I would like because it is still slight too thick. I've since found another model of panel -- Chimei N133BGE-LB1 that is quite a bit thinner. I don't have any pictures of the previous LCD transplant operation, but when I get the new one, I'll show you how the monitor goes together.

Both of the panels are 1366x768 resolution, which is plenty for a 13 inch monitor. I wish I could have used a 1080p screen, but there just isn't an LVDS driver board available for a screen that small with that resolution.

Continued next post.....


Speaking of LVDS boards, here's the one I'm using -- it is specifically for 1366x768 13 inch screens using a 40 pin interface. Compatibility for raw panels is a bit of a bear to sift through as part numbers and manufacturers change frequently. In addition, most of the places that sell the raw panels are very stingy with data sheets and specs...

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At this point, I've turned my attention to the motherboard -- I've removed pretty much all the ports except the HDMI out and the power plug. I'll be using the VGA for the onboard monitor, but keeping the HDMI will allow me to plug it into a TV at a hotel if available.

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One of the other obstacles is obviously the huge stock heatsink. To solve this problem, I'm using an all copper model which I've cut to fit (Dynatron A48G 1U).

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Just today, I received some M3x5mm standoffs for use in the case. After testing for clearance, the heatsink has about 1mm to spare from the top plate which is pretty much perfect since I want to force as much airflow as possible through the fins, etc... My next steps are to get the motherboard fully mounted in the case so I can begin finalizing the placement of the other components (2 hard drives, LVDS board, audio amp, Rf board, and Wi-fi board) I'm also awaiting the arrival of the TX Demon so I can get to work on some soldering / modding...
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jhax01
post May 2 2013, 06:55 AM
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Received the TX Demon in the mail today so I worked on installing it. Unfortunately, they shipped me the Slim Post QSB instead of the Postfix adapter so I'm not yet able to glitch the console, but the Demon install went great and the 360 will boot stock from both the Demon NAND and the stock 360 NAND... Also stripped and soldered in the RF board so I could boot the console and test...

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The QSB went in reaaalllyyy easy; however, I should have paid closer attention when I was lining up the Demon itself. Some of the lower points were skewed which made it a little bit more difficult to solder successfully.

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The kit is well put together....

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RF Board....

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Still waiting on a couple parts, but it's coming along.... smile.gif
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jery911
post May 3 2013, 12:09 AM
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wow, looking good so far.
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jhax01
post May 4 2013, 05:19 AM
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@jery911 Thanks! Hey, what's with the TX forums?? I've been trying to register there in case I have questions, but it's always "the server's too busy, blah blah blah..."

Anyway, received the Postfix adapter today so I installed the DGX / RGX and Postfix...

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Here's where I got ahead of myself a little -- I had seen a video where someone used a DGX and had Xell up through HDMI and I assumed it had been converted to an RGX device. So I loaded up JRunner, wrote the RGX files and the ECC to the Demon Nand, and tried to boot to Xell. I could tell the console was glitching, but no video...Well, of course, the HDMI out only works with the DGX and there's no going back once you convert. Normally, this wouldn't be a big deal because you could just get the CPU key via the Ethernet scan, but I've already removed all of that stuff!

So after some research, I'm realizing that I kind of backed myself into a corner and my only real option is a COM monitor cable. And since I don't have a NAND-X USB cable, I did the next best thing I could -- make my own. It just so happens that for one of my BMW iBus hacking projects, I used a board to monitor the bus which translates from the bus itself to serial and then to USB. Perfect -- a bit more soldering and I had a working RS232 interface.


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So now the console has been successfully RGH'd. It's booting in anywhere from 5-10 resets which is ok, but I'm going to see if I can tune it a little and speed it up a bit. I'm all ears if anyone has a suggestion on the best way to start.

Next I'm going to try soldering up the internal memory mod to add a 500GB HD for the RGH side only. From what I understand, because it's a non-4GB console, the HD will only show up on the glitch side which should help to keep things separate... Also going to rewire the Wi-Fi card and figure out the antenna situation -- this card is a little different than the last one I did.
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jery911
post May 4 2013, 11:09 AM
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QUOTE(jhax01 @ May 3 2013, 09:19 PM) *

@jery911 Thanks! Hey, what's with the TX forums?? I've been trying to register there in case I have questions, but it's always "the server's too busy, blah blah blah..."


not sure, its working fine for me, if you need any assistance you can drop me a pm and ill do my best to help you, im vip over at the xecuter forums. but try again if you cant.

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jhax01
post May 7 2013, 01:28 AM
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Thanks, if you have any thoughts on fine tuning the glitch, lemme know!

So I pretty much have everything laid out the way I think it should be. I wired in the second hard drive to the J1D1 header, but it is recognized as an external USB drive on both the glitch and retail sides rather than internal memory. Not quite what I was hoping for, but it will still work ok. Still have to wire the wifi, vga board, and audio board as well as complete the corners on the case. I also plan to add one usb port to the side as well as an access plug for the Demon.

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Bandit5317
post May 7 2013, 06:19 AM
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Wow looking good. Are you going to use negative air pressure within the case to suck the air through that heatsink using those exhaust fans?
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jhax01
post May 7 2013, 04:58 PM
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Thanks! Actually, I'm changing it up a little from the first one I built, partly just because of the way the lcd housing attaches to the top plate. So instead of having a hole just over the heat sink, which seems to be the typical design these days, I'm going to try more of a "wind tunnel" effect. Both fans are going to blow out the front (not ideal, but because of the layout and limited space it's all I can do) and the air is going to come in through the slot below the lcd hinge. I'm also going to use baffles to ensure that the air moves across the heat sink before being blown out the front. I just finished wiring up the video board and wifi card last night -- still waiting on the audio amp board, but I plan on trying to do some heat testing later in the week to see if it's going to work the way I want it to...
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jhax01
post May 8 2013, 05:22 AM
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I was able to complete some more work on the zenbox...Pretty much all the wiring is done and I have everything fitting in the case ok...Started doing some heat testing today with some disappointing results. Looks like I'm going to have to either readjust the way airflow enters the case or possibly look at some different heat sink options.


Wiring done and test booting retail and glitched...
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Everything in and booting...the clamp is holding the top on because at this point I'm uncertain how things are going to pan out heat-wise so I haven't working on finalizing mounting locations, etc... Sorry for the cruddy pics, someday maybe I will invest in a real camera...lol...

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Short vid...
zenbox

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Jumpy_Beans
post May 8 2013, 04:46 PM
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Just Awesome!
I would love to be able to make something like this.
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Bandit5317
post May 8 2013, 07:21 PM
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Maybe you could try moving a couple capacitors and having one of those blower fans push air directly into the heatsink. Then have a guide at the back to direct the hot air under the hinge and out the back. That may not allow for enough airflow, though. Dissipating almost 100 Watts in such a small space is going to be difficult.

This post has been edited by Bandit5317: May 8 2013, 07:22 PM
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jhax01
post May 8 2013, 09:45 PM
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QUOTE(Jumpy_Beans @ May 8 2013, 11:46 AM) *

Just Awesome!
I would love to be able to make something like this.


Thanks! If I can do it, ANYONE can... I'm not using anything other than simple hand tools...

QUOTE(Bandit5317 @ May 8 2013, 02:21 PM) *

Maybe you could try moving a couple capacitors and having one of those blower fans push air directly into the heatsink. Then have a guide at the back to direct the hot air under the hinge and out the back. That may not allow for enough airflow, though. Dissipating almost 100 Watts in such a small space is going to be difficult.


Not bad ideas... But honestly, at the rate the temps were rising, I suspect that my heatsink wasn't making good contact and coupled with the crappy antec thermal paste, that is too much to overcome. Even with no air moving it seems to me that it should have risen slower. I think my next move is to check my spacers and reapply some arctic silver before I make a judgment...
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