Sync Button, extending sync button Options

[zephinos]

Hello all,

Just like to say thanks to everyone on this forum. Very useful information everywhere.

I have one of the original xbox 360s that I have been bringing back from the dead numerous times (tweaking laser, changing laser, swaping dvd board, RROD)

Now I am just playing with it and moving it into a pc case.

I have already connected it to a atx power supply (xbox turn power supply and itself on)

I have extended the eject and sync buttons (this is where something went wrong)

originally i soldered the new buttons on the bottem of the board and they worked fine. Well i couldnt leave well enough alone so I decide to solder on pins that way i could disconnect and connect them when/if needed (ex just like the power and reset buttons on a pc)

now that I have done that the eject button works fine but the sync button no longer works on the extended button or the button on the 360s board

There is no solder touching other place where i soldered so I dunno if I toasted the onboard button or what. Now right before this change the RF board got knocked off my table could this have damaged it somehow where its not reading the sync button press?

Any ideas will be appreciated.

[hardrock351w]

There is no solder touching other place where i soldered so I dunno if I toasted the onboard button or what. Now right before this change the RF board got knocked off my table could this have damaged it somehow where its not reading the sync button press?

Any ideas will be appreciated.

Did you try taking the pins off the mobo?
if that don't work try changing the rf board.
If none of these work,... you might have lifted a trace

This post has been edited by hardrock351w: Oct 6 2012, 01:49 PM

[dopesun]

Im not too sure about the solder points..

But.. if you connect the charge cable from the 360 to a wireless controller, it will sync with the Xbox.

So all is not lost...

This post has been edited by dopesun: Oct 6 2012, 11:09 PM

[Bandit5317]

Is the sync button not doing anything, or does the ring of light just spin around until it times out, never syncing with the controller? If it's the latter, check the two tiny SMD resistors that are mounted next to each other directly above where the ROL board connector is on the top of the motherboard. They should both be very close to 0 Ohms. If one or both of them aren't, then some sort of short fried them and you need to replace the broken one/s with a piece of wire bridging the points that the resistor was originally between.

[zephinos]

Did you try taking the pins off the mobo?
if that don't work try changing the rf board.
If none of these work,... you might have lifted a trace

Sorry for the delay all.....

Pins where removed already... I should have another RF board today to try with... traces look good

Im not too sure about the solder points..
But.. if you connect the charge cable from the 360 to a wireless controller, it will sync with the Xbox.
So all is not lost...

Yeah that is true not all is lost but would like it to work.....

Is the sync button not doing anything, or does the ring of light just spin around until it times out, never syncing with the controller? If it's the latter, check the two tiny SMD resistors that are mounted next to each other directly above where the ROL board connector is on the top of the motherboard. They should both be very close to 0 Ohms. If one or both of them aren't, then some sort of short fried them and you need to replace the broken one/s with a piece of wire bridging the points that the resistor was originally between.

The sync button does not do anything.... I will check those resistors anyways thats a good tip, but no you press the button nothing happens. I hooked the multimeter up to the actual sync button and when pressed i get a reading so the button is not shorted... so maybe RF board?


Thanks again all for the awesome help

[zephinos]

Ok by my accounts the two resistors by the sync button are fine.

Someone said the fuse on top of the board by the sync button... that seems fine as well

So I read somewhere else that it was a southbridge problem more than likely.

Is there any way to test this theory... by an alternate solder location for the sync button or something.


What troubling me is how did solder on the two leads for the button mess up the south bridge? (short maybe but I would think it would just be trying to sync all the time if that was so) hmmmm