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> First Jtag With Xenon But E79 On Freeboot
Dark Mod
post Feb 28 2011, 04:58 PM
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Hi everyone,
It's my first Jtag i'm doing here, it's a xenon mainboard, 1904cb (I can't remember offhand) i've dump the nand and I got two bad blocks on 21A and 21B, dumped twice same thing, built the freeboot and what not and here's my problem. It boots xell perfect, gave me the key and what not but when I write freeboot to it and let it rest for a few and power on to test, it starts for about a few seconds and crashed to E79.

Well my good friend turfster helped out alot via msn in getting it to work up to a certain point using XBR and it boots, but it won't boot freeboot.

P.S I've seen on a few threads sometimes the diodes don't work as efficient as the three 330ohm resistors method, will that work?
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syntaxerror329
post Feb 28 2011, 05:22 PM
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The only way i do these now is the Transistor method. It is the most accurate way to inject the paypload into the GPU.

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=719652

The thing is, if xell boots then your payload is getting injected. Not sure what else anyone can do to help you.

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Madhatta
post Feb 28 2011, 11:48 PM
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Syntaxerror: I am by no means trying to step on what you said as you know your stuff way more than most people here but is that really the JTAG wiring for him to use? He said he is on a Xenon. I have read that for Xenons you don't want to use that method and instead use one like listed here (second picture down):

http://jtag.xbox-experts.com/jtag_install.html.

Sounds like that is what he is using and have read it is the best for non-HDMI boards.

Dark Mod: I think your problem is like I had in the past, you don't have the blocks remapped properly. Xellous says it is remapping the blocks but doesn't for whatever reason. Nandpro won't even try and remap. You need to manually remap the blocks like listed here.

http://www.theconsolejunkies.com/showthrea...locks-Explained

Go to this section:

"How would I remap the BadBlocks in the diagram with nandpro?"

In your case what you would do is take your newly built freeboot image and perform the following commands within NANDPro from the cmd line (make sure your image is within the NANDpro directory):

nandpro <yourbinfile.bin>: -r16 badblock21A.bin 21A 1
nandpro <yourbinfile.bin>: -w16 badblock21A.bin 3FF 1
nandpro <yourbinfile.bin>: -r16 badblock21B.bin 21B 1
nandpro <yourbinfile.bin>: -w16 badblock21B.bin 3FE 1

Then take your new image and flash it like normal and report back. How are you flashing by the way?
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Dark Mod
post Mar 1 2011, 12:52 AM
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i'm using the handbuilt USBflasher by grim
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Madhatta
post Mar 1 2011, 01:00 AM
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ok cool. Well let us know if that works out for you.
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Dark Mod
post Mar 1 2011, 01:16 AM
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still E79....sigh...i'm about to break this bloody console
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syntaxerror329
post Mar 1 2011, 01:24 AM
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QUOTE(Madhatta @ Feb 28 2011, 05:48 PM) *

Syntaxerror: I am by no means trying to step on what you said as you know your stuff way more than most people here but is that really the JTAG wiring for him to use? He said he is on a Xenon. I have read that for Xenons you don't want to use that method and instead use one like listed here (second picture down):


100% for sure there is nothing better then the transistor wiring for all motherboard versions. Your advice on properly remapping the bad blocks is very wise. That could very well be the issue.

The following information was written by BLACKADDR and is included with his Xbox 360 SMC Utility.
FYI. Blackaddr is a genious at writing code for SMC and he has incredible understanding of circuits.
QUOTE

DIODE METHOD

The diode method provides a safe electrical circuit by disconnecting (through high impedance) the SMC when it drives 3.3V, but allowing the SMC to pull the signal to 0V when driving logic zero. There will be a voltage drop across the diode when SMC drives zero, so the JTAG still sees a positive voltage. If this voltage is > (0.35 * 1.8) = 0.63 V, the signal will not be detected properly as a logic ‘0’. In order for the diode to be reliable, it should have a low forward voltage. Schottky diodes (such as BAT41) are specifically designed to be fast switching with low forward voltages (< 0.5V) and are very reliable for JTAG. Small-signal or general purpose diodes on the other hand (such as 1N914 and 1N4148) have forward voltages of ~ 0.60V for the current in this circuit. Many users have experienced unreliable booting or slow booting with the use of non-Schottky diodes but trying them will not cause damage if Schottky’s aren’t available.The console will retry rebooting up to 5 times if the exploit fails. Slow boots and random E79s can be the result of corrupt JTAG transactions caused by non-Schottky diodes.PROS: Very few components required (2x diodes). Electrically safe level translation. Any Schottky diode should work reliably, any general purpose diode is safe but might be less reliable.CONS: Schottky diodes are less common than general purpose diodes and harder to find. If BAT41 cannot be found, it may be difficult to find a substitute if you are not familiar with other Schottky part numbers.


vs TRANSISTOR METHOD

The transistor method provides a safe electrical circuit for level translation by disconnecting the SMC (through high impedance) when it drives 3.3V, but allowing the SMC to pull the signal to 0V when driving logic zero. There will be a very small voltage drop across the transistor, so the JTAG still sees a positive voltage, however it is typically < 0.1V, well below the 0.6V threshold. This ensures both logic 1's and logic 0's are correctly captured. Transistors must be NPN for this circuit. Pinout for 2N3904 is shown below, different transistors may have different pinouts so check their datasheet.PROS: Reliable, electrically safe GPU JTAG transactions. Uses very common, easy to find, easy to substitute components. Any NPN transistor can be used (double check pinout). Any resistor in the 10K to 20K range should work.CONS: More components and soldering. (2x NPN transistor, 2x resistor).

So basically the transistor method is the most electrically safe and provides the highest quality signal possible to the GPU. This reduces that chances of ever having a failed boot. I have NEVER has a jtag fail to boot since using this method. (besides the ones that got RROD but thats not the jtag's fault)
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Dark Mod
post Mar 1 2011, 01:29 AM
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QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Feb 28 2011, 08:24 PM) *

100% for sure there is nothing better then the transistor wiring for all motherboard versions. Your advice on properly remapping the bad blocks is very wise. That could very well be the issue.

The following information was written by BLACKADDR and is included with his Xbox 360 SMC Utility.
FYI. Blackaddr is a genious at writing code for SMC and he has incredible understanding of circuits.

So basically the transistor method is the most electrically safe and provides the highest quality signal possible to the GPU. This reduces that chances of ever having a failed boot. I have NEVER has a jtag fail to boot since using this method. (besides the ones that got RROD but thats not the jtag's fault)


by chance syntax....you have any diagram of the transistor method and what part number is the transistors for the xenon boards?

This post has been edited by Dark Mod: Mar 1 2011, 01:30 AM
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Madhatta
post Mar 1 2011, 01:34 AM
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QUOTE(syntaxerror329 @ Feb 28 2011, 04:24 PM) *

So basically the transistor method is the most electrically safe and provides the highest quality signal possible to the GPU. This reduces that chances of ever having a failed boot. I have NEVER has a jtag fail to boot since using this method. (besides the ones that got RROD but thats not the jtag's fault)


Wow thanks for the info. Had no idea. I just assumed the transistor method was for HDMI consoles only. I will have to try it out on a Xenon next time I do one.

Back to his E79, wouldn't he only have intermittent problems booting if the diodes were causing the issue?

Dark Mod, you may have files missing from your original image as well. I had an issue that the nand image I was pulling didn't contain two files and tk_saturn actually had to build the image for me. Worked like a charm after that.

He posted the method before. It lists exactly how to do it and the parts needed:

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=719652

This post has been edited by Madhatta: Mar 1 2011, 01:35 AM
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syntaxerror329
post Mar 1 2011, 02:20 AM
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QUOTE(Madhatta @ Feb 28 2011, 07:34 PM) *

Wow thanks for the info. Had no idea. I just assumed the transistor method was for HDMI consoles only. I will have to try it out on a Xenon next time I do one.


Glad to share. Please try it out and take pictures. I love to see what other peoples work looks like.
Post #54 shows where to runs the wires for Xenon. Thanks to mad.boxer for making that up for us.
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?s=&...t&p=4752640

QUOTE

Back to his E79, wouldn't he only have intermittent problems booting if the diodes were causing the issue?


Yes, that is kinda what i what saying in my first post. That fact that he can boot Xell says the wiring is good enough. I am with you that bad blocks could be the problem. I had one that pissed me off so bad I just installed a new nand with no bad blocks rather then figure it out. Of course not everyone has a mountain of busted motherboards to rob parts from or the skill to swap nands.

QUOTE

Dark Mod, you may have files missing from your original image as well. I had an issue that the nand image I was pulling didn't contain two files and tk_saturn actually had to build the image for me. Worked like a charm after that.


I always use Freeboot toolbox by bestpig. Very few files are used from his orig.bin and if anything needed is missing it will error out.
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STICKY_BUD
post Mar 1 2011, 02:45 AM
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QUOTE(Dark Mod @ Feb 28 2011, 04:29 PM) *

by chance syntax....you have any diagram of the transistor method and what part number is the transistors for the xenon boards?

check the link he posted for the pictures.

this is the part list from his original post:
2x 10K ohm ¼ watt resistors
2x 2N3904 Transistors
30AWG kynar wire
3/64’ Heat Shrink Tubing

you can get everything at your local ratshack. the transistors come as singles for a $1 each or you can buy 5 of them in a variety pack of 15 for less than $4 the risistors come in 5 packs and the 1/8 watt ones do work fine. if you do not already have kynar, spare ethernet cable may be used instead.
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Dark Mod
post Mar 7 2011, 12:38 AM
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Got it working guys...did the resistor method and reflashed it with help from madhatta and it boots sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet.
Oh..and thanks everyone including turfster...dude... you da man
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