Quick Guide For High Def Output, Add High Def without the M$ Pack Options

[Infamous Ob]

its just a cut out. The only time you'll find a secondary board with the xbox is on the v1.0 which had the daughterboard for the controllerports, which is nowhere near this part

Thanks for the info.

[bouby]

hi guys, i'm french and I apologize for my bad english

I tried to make the modifications to output VGA on my xbox 1.4 with Focus chip softmoded.
My cable is built with LM1881n.

I try to use the nkpatcher to output RGsB on YUV but when i connect my xbox to any monitors, they find a signal but no video. Sometimes, I could see one or two seconds of my dashboard until it disapears

I've never seen the blob, and I don't know what bios to use instead of the nkpatcher. I tried the yoshihiro for focus one, i tried the ind for connexant (but it did not work ) , I tried to patch a m8+_EF with the VGA patcher...

So I don't know what to do and I need help

thanks for help

[bouby]

hey hey,
I found on this tutorial http://www.360mods.net/News/article/sid=37.html , that a 340kohm 1% will give me a 30kHz Hsync.

Do you think it could solve my problem?

[grim_d]

I would like to add that the optical transmitters from phat ps2's work fine for adding optical out. My model was specifically a SCPH-30003 but i doubt it matters.

Don't know if it's already been mentioned but its a cheap solution if you have a broken ps2, rather than buying a new Toslink.

[brilliantdonkey]

hey hey,
I found on this tutorial http://www.360mods.net/News/article/sid=37.html , that a 340kohm 1% will give me a 30kHz Hsync.

Do you think it could solve my problem?

It sounds like your problem amounts to tweaking the resistor values. It's impossible to say for sure, but a 340k ohm resistor may solve your problem. You can try any resistor value between 340k to 680k.

This post has been edited by brilliantdonkey: Apr 27 2007, 04:04 PM

[bobbyblaze]

Hi Guys!

I have a CRT projector and need a cable to connect the xbox to it. It would be the same as the vga cable except it would terminate in 5bnc plugs (RGBHV). I would also require it to have a digital sound connection (either toslink or coaxial). Would anybody be interested in building one of these for me? Please PM me if you're up for it.

Thanks and good work on the mod ;o)

Cheers,

Rob

ps. I have a v1.0 xbox and an x3 chip if it helps.

This post has been edited by bobbyblaze: Apr 27 2007, 07:45 PM

[fightback]

Hi guys,

I've read this interesting topic...
I still can't find what I should do:

I have a PAL xbox, I'd like to build my own component cable for HDTV out of my advanced AV pack (scart+optical audio).
On the diagram on the 1st page, I see modifications for the xbox motherboard.
How can we modify the advanced pack to obtain the same result?
Or maybe I just could'nt figure out the solution from the picture.

[smoke_screen_uk]

Hi FightBack, I wanted to do the same thing myself a while back and after doing so I decided to make a few diagrams to help others though I can't remember if I ever got round to posting them.

Unfortunately somewhere along the way I've managed to loose my Advanced AV Cable so I'm unable to show pictures of the actual wiring which is a shame. Nevertheless I did sketch down the order of the wires when I was doing my conversion and will try to explain the process as best I can.

It is even possible to keep the SCART connection and be able to switch between it and Component HD.

As you have the SCART cable you have all the connections you need in the breakout box except the mode select wires.

Here is the pin definitions for the XBOX AVIP:


As you can see from the above table, pins 16 to 20 and pin 22 are common to both RGB SCART and YPrPb Component.

There are two ways you can proceed, either you Keep the SCART connectivity or you loose it.
The easier option is to loose the SCART connection.

Without SCART
First open up the SCART plug and unsolder the wires to it. If you then strip back a few inches of the outer insulation to give you the individual coloured screened wires you can simply put RCA plugs on them for Y Pr Pb Left audio and Right audio. The remaining wires can then be trimmed back as they are not needed.

The screened wire functions within the SCART plug are as follows:
White wire = Left Audio
Red wire = Right Audio
Grey wire = Y Video
Blue wire = Pb Video
Yellow wire = Pr Video


With SCART
If you choose to keep the SCART connection you will need to decide if you want to fit RCA sockets to the breakout box or to have then mounted externally on wires. You will need 5 in total (Y, Pr, Pb, Left audio, Right audio)
To connect them up I chose to solder my wires to the reverse of the circuit board under the 10 pin plug for video.

Here is a table with the functions of the wires going into the breakout box:


Using the table above and the one at the beginning of this post you can see that the grey screened wire is the Y video signal, the yellow screened wire is the Pr video signal, the blue screened wire is the Pb signal, the white screened wire is the Left audio signal and the red screened wire is the Right audio signal. All the other signals can be ignored.


Video Mode Select
Finally you will need to change the video mode for your cable.
In case you didn't know, the xbox senses what type of AV cable is connected to it and changes the video encoder to suit. It does this by using 3 wires in the plug and depending on what combination of them is shorted to ground.
This can be seen in the table I created below:

[smoke_screen_uk]

Sorry for the split post, I forgot to add this on the first one and then wasn't able to edit it due to a connection problem....


To change the Video Mode you will need to open the AVIP plug.
I have found removing the strain relief from the plug helps greatly during this step.
To do this easily it is best to use a sharp utility (Stanley) knife and cut the side pieces of the strain relief on the plug that are nearest to the plug, then cut each ring of the strain relief as to remove it without cutting into the cable.
Next you need to prise the black rubber plug surround from the top and bottom metal part of the plug where the small rectangular holes are (if looking towards the end of the plug) I find using small screwdrivers or a couple of table knives helps. At the same time you need to slide the black rubber part backward. This will then reveal the metal part of the plug which you will then need to get inside, usually requiring un-soldering the clasp and bending a bit.

Once you are inside and can see the wires you should be able to find the 3 small black wires that loop from the top contacts to the bottom ones (pins 9, 11 and 13 to pins 10, 12 and 14).
If you have chosen not to keep the SCART plug you can unsolder or cut the wire going between pin 13 and 14.


If you have chosen to keep the SCART connectivity you will need some form of switch so that you can make or break the connection between pin 13 and 14. It is possible to make a small hope or two in the black rubber plug surround to put a couple of small wires through so that the switch can be mounted outside the plug.


Sorry this post has been so long-winded but hopefully it has covered everything you were after.

[sheepie]

for the hi def thin do you need to have a switch for 2 and 3 or could you just solder wire there instead?

[sheepie]

anyone? cant belive how dead/slow xbox1 forums are these days

can i use a wire to connect the points? or will i have to use the switches?

[smoke_screen_uk]

Sorry for not being about much recently, had loads of electronics coursework at uni.
Just been made aware that Imageshack somehow lost one of my images I had hosed there, and as I can't edit my original post with a newly uploaded image I've had to add this post.

Sheepie,
if you just want one video mode, HD in your case, then yes, by all means you can just solder a wire from ground to the mode pins you need (ground to mode 2, ground to mode 3)

Video Mode Select

[bauk]

Hi,

I've been busy with all the components and had everything nicely working at HD output on my beamer.. But I am having trouble putting back the full xbox together afterwards. So I decided to get rid of de AVIP and get me more space for all connections, nicely on the back of the back of my box.

But I can't get the solder to melt or even loosen up. What temperature should I use and is flux really going to be the anser?

Really want my VGA/Advanced AV working, it's beautiful!

[smoke_screen_uk]

Sorry for the mixup.... I have just been looking over my table of Video Modes and realised that I got pin 13 and pin 9 mixed up.....
I am currently trying to find a way to update the images on imageshack without having to repost them with new links.

[Antman1]

I found this: http://www.newark.com/07B5904/semiconducto...NDUCTOR-LM1881N and want to order from here. Can someone point out what else i need to order and show me were it is on this web site so I can order it all together