Aladdin Xt Lite (4032) Always On Fix, Need detailed instructions Options

[Drebin]

OK, so I spent the last hour and a half trying to figure out how to perform the dreaded 'always on' fix for my Aladdin XT Lite (4032) on an Xbox 1.6. Unfortunately I could find no fulfilling answers to this delicate question, hence these clarification questions:

#1) There are a clear majority of posts saying that the BT point on the mod chip PCB should be soldered to ground. This can easily be done by connecting it to the GND pad on the mod chip PCB, which lies conveniently just two pads away from BT in the corner of the board. But what about the wire that is already soldered to BT? Should it be left there as well, or can the wire be entirely removed thereby restoring the connection at the other end to the same state as it was from new?

#2) Not as many, but still a fair share of posts, says that in addition to the grounding of BT as described above, D0 on the Xbox should be grounded as well. So I ask, is this really necessary since not everyone mentions this, and if it is, what about the wire already soldered to this point on the mod chip PCB (same situation as #1)?

I look forward to reading your replies. But please be precise in your answers, and help in making this thread the 'always on' thread to end all other 'always on' threads

[ModdingManiac]

1. Ground BT to Pin 2 on the chip (should be the one youa re talking about)..don't connect the BT wire to the motherboard, just leave it alone. Also do nothing with the D0.. I would also cut the trace (see link below it explains it in more details with pics)

http://ca.geocities.com/aladdinadvance/alwaysenabled.html

[Drebin]

1. Ground BT to Pin 2 on the chip (should be the one youa re talking about)..don't connect the BT wire to the motherboard, just leave it alone. Also do nothing with the D0.. I would also cut the trace (see link below it explains it in more details with pics)

Thank you for the answer and very nice link! Affraid I now have three more questions then:

#3) What about the wire I installed to L1, can I remove that entirely as well then, since it is not mentioned in the link?
BTW: I don't have that fancy black connector that is used to finally mount the mod chip PCB to the Xbox MB in the linked instruction. Instead I have soldered the mod chip PCB to the Xbox MB using the rectangular hole with room for 9 pins that fit down over the LPC port, which I have fitted with a male header as well (see picture).



#4) What good does it do to cut the trace?

And then the bonus question:
#5) What signals do these D0, BT and L1 points actually lead to? I mean, what is the function of the signal they each carry? Is it related to the power button, eject button etc?

Any other comments about this subject from someone else? Do you agree/disagree?

[ckh2004]

Drebin, where did you buy your white Aladdin XT 4032 from? It should come with female pin header shouldered on the mod chip.

Personally, this is the best install method for Aladdin XT 4032:

1) solder the LFRAME (D0 for v1.6) at the back of the motherboard to the D0 on mod chip. (Ground LFRAME directly will cause even higher current through the onboard LFRAME - very bad)

2) install an external SPST switch to connect or disconnect BT on mod chip to ground. (With the switch close, BT is shorted to ground and you have the always on mode. With switch open, BT floats and you have the original bios mode, and thus can go Xbox Live safely)

3) connect L1 on mod chip to the right of resistor R3G2. (the Eject LED will change color when in mod mode, very cool if you use switch in #2)

The advantages of the above method are:

1) Xbox Live capability
2) not too excessive current through LFRAME (if this a concern, use DuoX 2 instead)
3) cool LED indicator for mod mode.
4) neatly avoid the annoying Aladdin XT 4032's bug of always reboot to original bios (mod off) with any of the following conditions:

- reset on eject
- compatible IGR
- activate reboot in any dashboard

This post has been edited by ckh2004: Jan 28 2005, 01:41 AM