I personally have seen the same problems of fualty joints on other X-Box PSU's other than the "FoxLink" brand. I have found them also in the "Delta Electronics Inc" types as well.
I recommend anyone that with the offending V1.0 and V1.1 PSU's that you use what they call in the trade, a clinch type joint, rather than just resoldering it.
Clinch types of joints have found to be more reliable than normal vertical type joints and are less likely to fail.
The main reason for failure of the active and neutral pins on these power supplies, or any other form of high current area electronics, is due to the solder being heated and cooled by normal operation. The pressure of the power cord against the the AC input socket also doesn't help.
When the X-Box is in standby mode, very little current is being used, therefore the temperature of the solder joints is relatively cool. But when the X-Box is turned on, higher currents are being drawn, therefore the temperature rises on those joints, and also on other high current joints, not only those two offending pins.
This heating and cooling of the joints over the years will cause the the joints to become crystalised and eventually crack. The pressure of the power cord on AC input socket is what helps the cracking proceedure to acceletrate. It will then eventually crack all the way around the pin, thus making it contact intermittently.
Many people will try jiggling the power cord and may get it to work for a while. But unbeknownst to them, they are actually making things worse. i.e. They are widening the crack/s as well as generating voltage spikes.
These cracks now introduce new problems for the X-Box PSU. Due to this intermittent contact, voltage spikes are being generated. Thus, the more a person jiggles the power cord, the worse the voltage spikes become.
Thankfully Micro$oft had the insight of introducing a varistor into the primary side of the PSU to allow for voltage spikes and surges, but this was not enough in most cases, and it often led to the destruction of the varistor (in many cases causing it to flame out), as well as taking the mains fuse with it. The varistor can only handle so much, thus will eventually fail if the faulty solder joint isn't rectified.
All this is definately a fault with the PSU's and NOT with the power cords, as Micro$oft tend to claim. The only advantage with the power cords with the surge protection included, is if the house mains cops a surge, it will trip, but it WON'T protect the power supply from the spikes generated due to intermittent contacts on the power socket pins. It may trip the surge protector, but eventually the person who owns the machine will have to have it fixed at his own expense, if he starts getting sick of having to reset the damn thing all the time.
I've included three pictures of how and what should be done to repair the pins on these sockets.
The first picture shows the pins devoid of any solder.
The second shows how to bend the tabs of the socket pins to create a clinch joint. It also recommends that the two AC input socket support pins should also be soldered. The reason for this is to add more support to the whole assembly. Thus taking some strain off the AC pins themselves.
The third picture shows the finished results.
Micro$oft should be resonsible for this problem and should be covering this under warranty, regardless of how old the machine is. This is a manufacturing stuff-up and no type of power cord is going to magically fix this problem.
I've been in the TV/Video repair business for more than 25 years and I've come across many a faulty joint due to pressure, weight, heat etc. But I've never come across a company that blatantly denies that the real problem is their's alone. The onus is definately on Micro$oft, and it wouldn't surprise me in the least if they end up with a class action suit against them in the future for this very reason.
I thought I'd put my two cents worth into this discussion.
I hope it helps.