Completely Dead Xbox, absolutely refuses to power on |
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| amightydino |
Mar 15 2005, 01:48 PM
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I bought my xbox back in January, and modded it with a Xenium solderless last month. Last week, after playing a game for a few hours, I shut it down and went to bed. The next morning, I pushed power, but nothing happened. Tried eject, but same thing. Checked cord, retried, nothing. Looked on the boards, found out about fuses, and replaced the fuse. Nothing. Ordered a new psu, just replaced it, and nothing. No sound. No light. Absolutely no reaction. I found a few posts about the eject board, but nothing concrete on how to check and/or replace. Heck, even tried with both the replacement and original power cords. Does anyone have any suggestions? Starting to get the shakes: I need to get it back! 
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| amightydino |
Mar 15 2005, 04:13 PM
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Mainboard on another power/eject assembly? How exactly do I do that? Do I require another Xbox, cause that's not happening. I live in Japan, and sometimes I think I'm the only person with an Xbox here....  Also: while rechecking/wiggling connections and retrying to power on, I noticed something a bit strange: it makes a high pitched whining noise when I unplug the power cord... I hope that helps, and doesn't confuse the issue any. And, with the new psu, there's an additional plug branching off (which I assume is the adapter for the later models) that simply will not fit in the case anywhere.... Any suggestions on that? Just in case I can get it fixed and close it back up, that is. 
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| amightydino |
Mar 16 2005, 03:21 PM
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*Bump* Anyone?
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| MAFox2u |
Mar 17 2005, 01:54 PM
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Sounds like the infamous T2 Transistor (q7c2) has gone bad.
If the voltage readings at the infamous T2 transistor (aka Q7C2) are collector 0.35, pin nearest Q7C1 is reading 0.35 (base) and 4.0 for the emittor, then your transistor is bad. You can also check wether there is a short between collector and base. Mine was reading 23 Ohms, it should be about 1000 Ohms (while still on the board)
You can power the xbox up by removing the bad transistor and bridging the emittor to the collector with a piece of 30 AWG wire.
If everything works fine, then replace the bad transistor with PNP transistor number 2N4403 or MMBT4403 avaliable just about anywhere.
That should fix it.
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| amightydino |
Mar 18 2005, 06:36 AM
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Nope, not a 1.6. Its a 1.0. Thanks for responding: its great to see that someone's trying to help! Also, one more small thing to consider: I tried the manual eject spot to get my game out, but it doesn't work. There's no release switch, no button, nothing inside. I took a bobby pin, clipped the point off to blunt it, and poked around in the hole, but it seems to be a simple, empty hole... Any ideas on getting the disc out? Does this help with the problem?
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| amightydino |
Mar 18 2005, 01:10 PM
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QUOTE(G0t M4xx 21 @ Mar 18 2005, 01:50 PM) you gotta use a paper clip (you have to shove it in really far), its a manual tray opening thing, not a button. Also, you can manually turn the xbox on by bridging the 3.3v SB and the power_on wires on the big power plug. I've got that bobby pin straightened, and at just over 2 inches in, it stops, and won't go any further.... But nothing. Will try with a paperclip later. Also: any diagrams, walkthroughs, more newbie-fied explanations of this bridging action? Photos? Anything? 
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| amightydino |
Mar 19 2005, 05:23 PM
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*bump*
Just want to also point out that the previous suggestions, about the eject assembly, and bridging the power_on wires appear to be helpful, but I can't find anything about them on the main page, in the forums, or on the web.... So, if you have any suggestions on different wording/search parameters to use, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks again!
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| amightydino |
Mar 19 2005, 05:24 PM
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<deleted> Sorry: 'puter burped, and out came two replies. Ignore this one. This post has been edited by amightydino: Mar 19 2005, 05:25 PM
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| amightydino |
Mar 25 2005, 03:23 AM
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Update: I figured out how to do the bridging tip, thanks to G0t M4xx 21, but to no avail. Also, I CAN NOT manually eject the DVD drive. Nothing happens with wiggling/thrusting/poking a paperclip into the manual release spot. So, my guess is that my problem had nothing to do with the PSU originally, as its been replaced and no go, and that leaves.... What exactly? Any more ideas? 
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