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> Add Any Extra Button To Xbox 360 Wireless Controller
lmastercheifl
post May 21 2006, 05:06 AM
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When you scrape them open, is that copper colored ring the metal part, or didn't i scrape far enough?
I don't know if I have different solder that doesn't work as well or doesn't it matter?
And would it work if I used something else to get them to stay on the points?
Thanks.

This post has been edited by lmastercheifl: May 21 2006, 05:08 AM
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RDC
post May 21 2006, 05:23 AM
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You should be using 60/40 Rosin Core solder.

If you see copper that's the trace you need to solder to. Depending on what it looks like will tell you if you've scraped off enough masking. Use several LIGHT scrapes until you get enough of the masking off and can make a good solder joint.

If it's dull almost orange looking then there's most likely still a thin layer of masking still on it.

If it's bright and shiny then STOP, you've removed enough and any more scraping and you could end up scraping it completely off the board. Then you'll have to make 2 correct scrapes on that line somewhere in order to solder a "jumper" wire over the open you made. If it IS shiny and you're using the correct solder and you're not getting the solder to stick, then you need some practice.

Practice on something you don't care about ruining to see how much scraping it takes to get the trace exposed and soldered to correctly. All boards aren't exactly the same, but it will give you a better "feel" for doing it on something that can be messed up on and not worried about, and you'll be better prepared to work on something important, like a $50 controller, after you've made a few good scrape/solder joints on a crap board.

QUOTE("lmastercheifl")
And would it work if I used something else to get them to stay on the points?


No, solder them on. Tape or glue will sooner or later come undone, and it makes for a lousy connection in the first place. The main reason for soldering is to make a good electrical connection between the 2 pieces, the fact it holds really good as well is just a great bonus.

This post has been edited by RDC: May 21 2006, 05:19 AM
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lmastercheifl
post May 22 2006, 01:53 AM
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Maybe it's the solder, it's a pretty thick coil, i can't remember what type it said on it when i bought it.
Oh and I practice on the other wirless i messed up trying to drill the torx screws out after not being able to find the bits. scraping too much off the points don't mess up the controller unless you scrape all the way to the other side, i tried. might not be able to ad extra buttons, but it didnt mess up the ones that are already there.
Thanks for the help.

This post has been edited by lmastercheifl: May 22 2006, 01:57 AM
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RDC
post May 22 2006, 02:03 AM
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QUOTE(lmastercheifl @ May 21 2006, 09:00 PM) *
scraping too much off the points don't mess up the controller unless you scrape all the way to the other side, i tried.


If you mean the other side of the board then that's just a flat out given, you'd end up with a hole in it. If you scrape too much you can remove enough of the trace around the Via so that the connection will not work anymore. The Via goes all the way through the board to the other side, the trace sits on the top/bottom and around the edge of the Via.
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will042082
post Jun 7 2006, 07:26 PM
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I'm ordering some of the buttons that jeremydamnit recommended from mouser.com
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=di...e_pcodeid=68800 and i know i need 60/40 resin solder, anyone got a link on mouser.com which stuff i need? there's so much there
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RDC
post Jun 8 2006, 12:18 AM
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I use a .61mm diameter Rosin core (.024in) How much of it ya get is up to you really. I wouldn't get anything with a bigger daimeter than that, this size is pretty good for most jobs. If you want to get something a little smaller that's good too, you can always add more on, but soldering to a small joint with something like .125in is like using a welder to fix a necklace. There's nothing wrong with grabbing a roll of each either, you may need to lay the solder on something one day and wish you had a bigger diameter. Just make sure you have a good iron, keep it clean and know how to use it properly. After all those are taken care of just about any 60/40 Rosin core solder will do ya just fine.

This post has been edited by RDC: Jun 8 2006, 12:20 AM
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gopokes7
post Jun 9 2006, 04:39 PM
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I did my buttons in about March and it was great. Completely changes the way you play Halo and other shooters. I repositioned the A & B buttons to the underside of the controller so Jumping & "Whacking" would be possible without having to remove my thumb from the stick. I don't have the pictures on this computer but i will post them later today when i get back to work from lunch.
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gopokes7
post Jun 9 2006, 07:00 PM
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Here are a couple pictures of what my controller looks like now.



IPB Image



IPB Image
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RDC
post Jun 9 2006, 07:04 PM
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@gopokes7

What type of buttons are those and where did you pick them up? If ya don't mind me askin.
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will042082
post Jun 16 2006, 02:02 AM
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@RDC
My girlfriend got me the ColdHeat soldering iron for xmas and I havn't used it just yet. Would it do the job for this or should I use a friends soldering iron for something like this? Know anyone that's used these irons before and have they liked them?
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RDC
post Jun 16 2006, 02:30 AM
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@will042082 - Give her an A+ for at least getting something useful, the other one I know of was also a gift, but from his wife. I personally wouldn't use it, I only saw one used once and wasn't to impressed with it's results, and I only know of one other person that's used it and they said it was alright, but he's not into soldering really big. It seems like more of a "quick fix around the house" type of iron, I wouldn't lay it to something delicate like the 360 controllers board.
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jeremydammit
post Jun 19 2006, 08:00 PM
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doesn't work for this small stuff....there was a discussion about them a long time ago. as rdc says...good for a quick fix around the house.

Also the big black buttons look just like the ones I used on old xbox when i first did this mod. You can get them at radio shack, but I recomend after you screw the plastic fitting on, melt the plastic so they will not come unsrewed and get loose from pounding buttons smile.gif They are still on my kasumi controller to this day....never had any problems. They are far more comfortable than the small mouser flush mount buttons

This post has been edited by jeremydammit: Jun 19 2006, 08:04 PM
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esc1
post Aug 4 2006, 07:09 AM
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So is it possible to put one of those buttons Jeremy uses about where the middle finger rests on the bottom without removing the rumbler?
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RDC
post Aug 4 2006, 02:33 PM
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Yeah you can install those type of Tact Switches without messing with the Rumble Motors, they're pretty small.
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esc1
post Aug 4 2006, 07:01 PM
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Cool. Any recommendations on where to put it? I'm just concerned I might stick it in a place where I'll either hit it accidentally or my hand won't be comfortable trying not to hit it, but still keep it where I can use it easily. Should I put it where my middle finger naturally sits or slightly above if I can? Anyone got any pics?

Well I guess after just playing with the button some its not really sensitive.. I think I'll go with the spot where my middle fingertip rests.

This post has been edited by esc1: Aug 4 2006, 07:15 PM
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