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> High Res Controller Pcb Pics, Full Credit to RDC for this.
Chancer
post May 13 2006, 09:30 AM
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To enable easier repair of damage PCB.

These are for the WIRED Matrix version controller

IPB Image

NOTE: BOTH of the + (anode) lines are connected on the back of the board, so you can use either of these if need be.

D1
IPB Image

D2
IPB Image

D3
IPB Image

D4
IPB Image


These are for the WIRELESS Matrix version controller

IPB Image

D21
IPB Image

D23
IPB Image

D20
IPB Image

D22
IPB Image

This post has been edited by RDC: Jul 13 2008, 06:08 PM
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RDC
post Jul 13 2008, 06:06 PM
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Update

NOTE: The Wireless CG and CG2 board versions are the only ones that have a Common Cathode setup, all of the other controllers are a Common Anode setup .

Common Anode (all of the LEDs + are connected and - is turned on/off to light the LED)

Common Cathode (all of the LEDs - are connected and + is turned on/off to light the LED)


WIRELESS CG Version

IPB Image


WIRED CL Version

IPB Image


WIRELESS CG2 Version

IPB Image


WIRELESS CG3 (White PCB) Version
NOTE: The Wireless CG3 board version uses a Charge Pump Inverter to supply a negative voltage to the Cathodes of the LEDs .

IPB Image

This post has been edited by RDC: Dec 14 2012, 04:54 AM
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BlackWar
post Jul 14 2008, 01:24 AM
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I have just one question....how the hell did you get such good high-res pics that close!?!?!?

If that was done with a camera, what make/model of cam was it? I tried to take close pics of my 360 mobo once, and got nothing but fuzz.....
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RDC
post Jul 14 2008, 02:25 AM
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Most of the full shots, where ya can see all of the LEDs, were done with a scanner. The close up set of them though, each individual LED, was done with my old 4MP Casio QV-R4 and an old camcorder eye piece and LED stuck on the end of the lens, looked like crud, but it got those pics. wink.gif Just about any camera with a lens similar to that on the end can get macro shots like that. I use a Konica Minolta Dimage Z6 now though, and even it's super macro mode doesn't get that close, or I use the scanner for most of my pics now, just depends on what I'm going for or want a pic of.

If your camera has a macro button, looks like a little flower, make sure that feature is on before trying to take any close up pics. Also you'll get some right awful blast from the flash most times and just end up with a pic of that reflecting off the board, take it outside and get a pic of it in the daylight. The shutter speed goes way up and ya don't have to worry about the flash ruining the shot and most times ya end up w0ith a 1000 times better pic, lot of digital cameras are like this. Also don't try and get right up on what ya want the picture of, pull away some so the camera can focus, then zoom in with some app and edit the pic up.

This post has been edited by RDC: Jul 16 2008, 01:10 PM
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Hifeno
post Nov 17 2008, 06:01 AM
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how do you remove these and replace them? Like with different colors. Also can you attach a second on the like the player one light and both still work? What kind of led do I need to use and where do you recommend getting them. Maybe radioshack?
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RDC
post Nov 17 2008, 06:17 AM
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I remove them with a Hot Air rework setup, but just covering them with solder and then gently wiping them off with a regular iron is also acceptable, and the only way to go about it really without causing damage or having a tip designed for that type of SMT rework. Just make sure ya heat up both ends of it at the same time and don't leave the iron on there too long or ya can cause the pads to lift, same goes for trying to force them off if it's not ready, that can cause the pads to be ripped off.

Putting them on with an iron ya just tack one side down, then solder the other end, then go back to the first one again if need be. With a rework setup or correct tip it's much easier and neater though as both ends can be heated at the same time.

The LEDs are Surface Mount, SMD, 0603 (size), same thing they use in the PS3 controllers.

Look online for them, loads of places have them.
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Protolisk
post Nov 17 2008, 09:16 AM
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You can also use 0805 which are slightly bigger.
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NYCXBOX
post Feb 23 2013, 02:12 AM
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On the CG3 board... (which by the way I have found some Green versions of it in Black controllers)
I tried replacing the White LEDs with Blue and they worked just fine.
I also tried RED, ORANGE, YELLOW and Purple.. they blink ONCE and then don't light up.
Any reason why a 0603 SMD LED would not work on the CG3 boards? Only White and Blue 0603 work?

This post has been edited by NYCXBOX: Feb 23 2013, 02:12 AM
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