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> How To Extract/flash Tsh943 Ms28 Fm Using Mtkflash, very new! Probably better tutorial coming soon!
firestorm2yk
post Aug 23 2006, 06:42 PM
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Are all 3 resistors the same? I would say that you shorted one of the resistors on the side and this is causing the voltage stability issues to the laser resulting in DDE's. If indeed all 3 resistors are the same, you could try desoldering the faulty resistor and replacing it with either a glob of solder or a wire. Also use a magnifying glass and make sure you havent got any solder touching either of the other two resistors as this could be causing the short.

I first attempted soldering a XenoGC modchip to a gamecube and bungled it up royally because i used a 25 Watt soldering iorn with thick solder and an "Ice Pick" tip. Make sure you use the right tools for the job, a 14 watt (i used a 17 watt because i couldnt find a 14) soldering iron, the thinest solder you can find and a magnifying glass but most important of all... take your time.

Make sure you have an old cdrom or dvdrom plugged into an ide channel on your mainboard as well as the xbox 360 dvdrom so that you get the option to chose which to flash and make sure you have a good edited version of MTKFlash.

Big props goes to the people on this forum for posting this info. smile.gif
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jackel7007
post Aug 23 2006, 06:55 PM
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IPB Image

maybe someone can help me out...
there are 3 resistors on a row...
C407
R408 (red and blue dot in the image)
R409

should my voltmeter make sound (when + and - make contact) when I put one tip on the red square...
the other tip on R409 on the top
(in the picture the contact point right next to the red square)

in my current it does...

Is there any way I can test if C407 is still fine because here it went glowing... at least the epoxy on top of it...

sometimes it boots, sometimes it doesn't...

I want to fix it ASAP
and then wait for a good hack without soldering wires or other "dangerous" shit...

Very mutch thanks to the person willing to help me...

(maybe you can tell me some values which I can test to make sure all is still fine..
I know standard electronic, but just very standard...

I know what Ohm watt etc means, and how to mease for instance the Ohm of the resistors

thanks in advance
regards
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jackel7007
post Aug 23 2006, 07:24 PM
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is there any way to clean of all the dirt/solder...

i think the best idea is to get R408 and R409 off of the print, and then place them back after cleaning the sh*t

C407 can't be damaged by a little sparkle I think? (someone knowing better?)

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BILKO1
post Aug 23 2006, 10:52 PM
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C407 is a capacitor and yes it will blow if its shorted sad.gif
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Realizt
post Aug 24 2006, 12:27 AM
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QUOTE(jackel7007 @ Aug 23 2006, 07:31 PM) *

is there any way to clean of all the dirt/solder...

i think the best idea is to get R408 and R409 off of the print, and then place them back after cleaning the sh*t

C407 can't be damaged by a little sparkle I think? (someone knowing better?)



You should be able to remove excess solder using soldering wick. Its basically like a thin strip of metal mesh that when heated on top of the solder, will absorb any solder into the mesh. Try using this to clean it up smile.gif
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jackel7007
post Aug 24 2006, 07:08 AM
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QUOTE(BILKO1 @ Aug 23 2006, 11:59 PM) *

C407 is a capacitor and yes it will blow if its shorted sad.gif


hm...
Can i test if it's broken? with my volt meter or something?
and the strange thing is, the first time I turn on my xbox the little green light flashes and it wont boot, then off and on again.. no problem.

How can this be, I mean.. if something is really broken it shouldn't work at all.?

also a problem is that the capicitor is 75% under the Epoxy :s...

any site or way to order spare parts..?
or should it sent this ting to sony back?
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jackel7007
post Aug 24 2006, 10:55 AM
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the weird thing was my Xbox did sometimes boot and sometimes not...
so it couldn't be really broken.

I desolderd the mess today and redid everything as neat as i could.
although I don't have the best tools... lack of shops here...

Anyway repaired the sh*t, and it looks like it's working again.. love.gif


but...
but..
but..


stil not able to read my orig firmware...

:'(

I think i'm going to buy a sapperated SATA controller..
but haven't found out which one is going to work definately....

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jackel7007
post Aug 24 2006, 11:50 AM
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still no succes...
been at my neighbour with another motherboard (gigabyte) but also the nforce4 chipset....

I experienced the same problem as before at my own pc.

MTKFLASH recognises my SATA controller..
but it just freezes, and after pressing Escape it gives me the Status = 51 must be 70...

I think i'm going to wait for a 100% workaround..

this begins to s*ck..
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crivit
post Aug 24 2006, 02:14 PM
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Hi guys,

I was following this topic for a while trying to figure out the MS28 read/flash. I didn't succeed at all.
But now I found a great solution which works flawlessly for me. It's from sTix at xboxhacker.

---
I finally got my MS28 to read and write firmware WITHOUT doing the VCC trick. (Thanks go to Textbook and Rodpad @ Xbox-Scene for helping me out). Here's what I did:

Turn off the Xbox 360 and PC.
Connect the SATA cable from the MS28 drive to the PC, and also use croc clips to be safe.
Leave a PC CD or DVD drive on one of the IDE channels
Turn on the PC and boot from floppy , but leave the 360 off.
When you get to command prompt, turn 360 on.
Type this command: mtkflash r /m /sata orig.bin and hit enter
It should display your ports. Do NOT select anything, just leave it at the "menu"
Turn off your 360.
Now, select the port the 360 was connected to, even though the 360 is now off.
It will "pause" when you select that port
I counted to ten, then turned on the 360
It started reading automatically
---

Thank you sTix! biggrin.gif
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llsTixll
post Aug 24 2006, 02:16 PM
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QUOTE(crivit @ Aug 24 2006, 11:21 PM) *

Hi guys,

I was following this topic for a while trying to figure out the MS28 read/flash. I didn't succeed at all.
But now I found a great solution which works flawlessly for me. It's from sTix at xboxhacker.

---
I finally got my MS28 to read and write firmware WITHOUT doing the VCC trick. (Thanks go to Textbook and Rodpad @ Xbox-Scene for helping me out). Here's what I did:

Turn off the Xbox 360 and PC.
Connect the SATA cable from the MS28 drive to the PC, and also use croc clips to be safe.
Leave a PC CD or DVD drive on one of the IDE channels
Turn on the PC and boot from floppy , but leave the 360 off.
When you get to command prompt, turn 360 on.
Type this command: mtkflash r /m /sata orig.bin and hit enter
It should display your ports. Do NOT select anything, just leave it at the "menu"
Turn off your 360.
Now, select the port the 360 was connected to, even though the 360 is now off.
It will "pause" when you select that port
I counted to ten, then turned on the 360
It started reading automatically
---

Thank you sTix! biggrin.gif


No worries dude. Glad it worked out for ya.
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jackel7007
post Aug 24 2006, 03:56 PM
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I can't get it done by that trick...


my dvd:
MS28
ver A
May 2006


Is this the same drive as you guys did the trick with?


if your drive is a MS28 produced in May 2006 please answer:
some questions:
was there A cd/dvd in your Xbox360 drive?
did you have other IDE dvd players or so connected in your pc?
What type of Sata did you use, onboard, pci, type etc


This post has been edited by jackel7007: Aug 24 2006, 04:02 PM
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Textbook
post Aug 24 2006, 05:07 PM
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Jackel, we've already stated the bad flash trick for MS28 drives only works with VIA chipsets. If you don't have a VIA chipset, I wouldn't waste any more time trying it more than once.

If you have a VIA chipset: get a hexedited MTKFlash for your chipset and follow the bad flash procedure posted above.

If you don't have a VIA chipset: you will have to do the VCC switch.
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jackel7007
post Aug 24 2006, 06:05 PM
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I saw it nowhere stated....
i have read A lot of different info
different statemenst to type like:

mtkflash /r back.bin
mtkflash /r /m back.bin
mtkflash /r /m /sata back.bin

but I will see if I can order a PCI sata controller with VIA :-)

i'm glad you tell me that that is the only option....
think there are more people trying over and over and over...

What sata card do you guys advice for my MS28 may 2006?

regards
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jackel7007
post Aug 24 2006, 06:18 PM
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QUOTE(Textbook @ Aug 24 2006, 06:14 PM) *



If you don't have a VIA chipset: you will have to do the VCC switch.


alright so i will get back soldering again....

but after soldering...
what guide should I follow?

when do I connect SATA, power, and wires...
and is it possible to flash when the DVD-controller board is disconnected from the DVD....?

thanks m8!


This post has been edited by jackel7007: Aug 24 2006, 06:25 PM
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jackel7007
post Aug 24 2006, 07:13 PM
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finally I can tell you all...

MS 28
May 2006

solder a switch on the resistor.
boot pc with switch off/ wires disconnected...

when you are at dos promt.. (a: or c: whatever you use, I used USB drive)
set the switch to On/connect the wires togheter
type MTKFLASH.EXE R /M orig.bin
press Enter

select your master (assuming it is on SATA 1 as it should be)

and see it going pop.gif

great biggrin.gif

now i'm going to do the rest...
just wanted to spam this here rolleyes.gif
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