Ring Of Light: Inverting Colours Options

[m1tch37]

I want to make my ring of light red, but i like the idea of keeping the error light (therefore keeping bicolor leds) and i would prefer not to solder.

After observing the ring of light schematic,

http://pablot.com/misc/rol_schematic.png

I decided that if i was to switch pin 20 with pin 19, and pin 18 with pin 17 it would invert the colours. (I think, although i do not know what TP2 does, or what a TP is at all? [Trim Pot? ])

I am asking for help because i am yet to look at the ring myself (i am waiting for a unlock kit, along with other things) and this photo of the connector is not very clear:



Does someone know, who has seen the ring of light, if this could be possible, and if the connector/pins could be swapped easily?

This post has been edited by m1tch37: Apr 7 2007, 08:47 AM

[RDC]

Those "pins" are on the IC that controls the ROL, you're going to be cutting and soldering if you want to do this mod this way. In order to invert the colors you have to cut 4 traces and solder 4 wires on the back of the ROL board, not the connector. TP = Test Point

Pic and method by G0t M4xx 21 so all credit to him, I can't ever find the thread the thing is in but saved the pic, so here it is.

Cut the 4 traces that are in the red circle, then "connect the colors" and you'll have a Red ROL with Green error lights.



EDIT: Pinned in the Tutorials now as well under PCB/Parts Replacement/ROL Mods :

This post has been edited by RDC: Apr 17 2007, 06:23 PM

[m1tch37]

Right.

So you switch pink with blue, and green with red.

Great. Ill give it a shot when i get my stuff sorted out.

[RDC]

Right.

So you switch pink with blue, and green with red.

Great. Ill give it a shot when i get my stuff sorted out.

Yes and No, yes that's what you need to do, but no don't go swapping the colors how they are in the pic, that's already done. Just cut the 4 traces and then connect Blue to Blue, Pink to Pink ect., ect.

[m1tch37]

Yes and no.

I just realised that, and i was about to correct myself, but what you are saying will not work. If that schematic is correct, but connecting to TP7,8,11 you are skipping resistors R4,21,22 respectively. But you could just twist the resistors onto the cable.

[RDC]

Yes and no.

I just realised that, and i was about to correct myself, but what you are saying will not work. If that schematic is correct, but connecting to TP7,8,11 you are skipping resistors R4,21,22 respectively. But you could just twist the resistors onto the cable.

Lemme clue ya in on what 0ohm means, it means Zero Resistance, so you can skip 'em or reinstall them if ya want, but it's not gonna make a lick of difference either way, so yes it will work.

This post has been edited by RDC: Apr 7 2007, 02:25 PM

[henmill]

testimony: that diagram by G0t M4xx 21 works, I've done it.

[PK-GHost]

What do the colors mean? If they mean the respective color on LED, what the heck are the blue and pink??

Also, can you buy those bicolor LEDs somewhere? Id like to keep the red error, but different main color, or maybe change both...Most importantly I wanna keep the 2 lights different.

[RDC]

What do the colors mean? If they mean the respective color on LED, what the heck are the blue and pink??

Also, can you buy those bicolor LEDs somewhere? Id like to keep the red error, but different main color, or maybe change both...Most importantly I wanna keep the 2 lights different.

The colors are so you know what spots to solder the 4 wires to, if ya read the thread you'd have known that.

The LEDs on the board are Right Angle 1204 SMT and there aren't a lot of color options in that package, but have a look and see what ya can find. Better to just replace them with 0603 or 0805 SMT LEDs and a second set for the error color so you can get the colors ya really want.

[m1tch37]

Lemme clue ya in on what 0ohm means, it means Zero Resistance, so you can skip 'em or reinstall them if ya want, but it's not gonna make a lick of difference either way, so yes it will work.

Oh haha i didnt read it! Wonder why they put it there.

[RDC]

They're really just jumpers, like a wire to connect one trace to another. Looking more at the board it looks like there are 2 possible paths that can be taken to the LEDs, so the 0ohm Resistor is probably just one of the ways, the other appears to need more components and who knows how it is really designed. Kinda hard to tell sometimes what the engineers were thinking when you look at it from the repair/modding side of things, some of it makes no sense at all.

[Thelosersinc]

well I believe that one of the routes is for the red, and one of the routes is for the green, I may be wrong. Anyways, Im pretty sure the resistor is used to drain, either that or to put little resistance, because when My 360 is plugged in, if I use Red or Amber SMD's they are kinda lit, i think if i changed that resister to like .4 it would block that little bit of voltage/current going to the SMD, therefor I think the 0Ohm is blocking the little bit of power that is constant to the board so the LED's arent lit while there is a little bit of current passing through the rest. I may be wrong though. Just an Idea.

[RDC]

The Red/Amber light up just a little because they have a lower forward voltage requirement. Installing a 33ohm to 47ohm Resistor or so in there would fix that up. But 0ohm = 0 Resistance, so they're not doing anything that a wire wouldn't do in the same place.

This post has been edited by RDC: Apr 8 2007, 03:48 AM

[PEPE123]

i really want to do this is there a tut cuz i dont understand anything abot resitors and stuff

[CollinstheClown]

i really want to do this is there a tut cuz i dont understand anything abot resitors and stuff

That diagram posted above is what your looking for. Simply cut the traces circled in red. Then use a wire to connect the matching colors.




-CollinstheClown