For those that want a safer external cooling option. Ideally, you would crack open the case and do it internally. But, if you need or want to keep you box closed, I found this to be a really good option.
Nyko Intercooler Mod To Remove Power Pass Through
By Erik M.

Modded Nyko Cooler – Mounted and Working Great
BackgroundTo begin, I know there are better and more efficient cooling modifications you can do internally on the Xbox 360. But, for those that don’t want to crack open their Xbox 360, an external cooler is about your only choice. I have a lot of time left on my Elite warranty, and I would rather play it safe and leave it sealed. I feel the intercooler design does the best job of externally cooling the system out of all the cooling products I have seen. The problem is the power pass through. The product works so well at removing heat from the system that sometimes the infamous “scorch” can happen. I know because it happened to me.
After fixing the power port on my Xbox 360, I turned my attention to the intercooler to see what happened. What caused this scorch I had heard about and seen from other users? Was it power “stealing,” as I see people claim? No, I knew that wasn’t the issue before even looking. So, what is the real cause you ask? Essentially, upon taking the intercooler apart, I found the insulation on the wires in the power pass through was so brittle from long periods of high heat that it had started falling off. A couple of the wires had lost chunks of insulation right near each other and it caused a short in the power pass through (you could see exactly where it shorted and melted the plastic). Luckily, the short happened away from the Xbox side of the power pass through and the melted plastic oozed down far enough to stop power flow to my Xbox before a major problem happened. To fix it, all I did was clean out a little melted plastic from my Xbox power socket and it was fine. It booted up first try after the clean out. Whew!!
So, I had heard of people removing the power pass through and making a self powered unit. Sounded like the perfect solution to me. Also, the fans Nyko puts in the stock unit are crap. I also HIGHLY RECOMMEND replacing the fans with some real high quality 12V fans. This is why so many people end up complaining about the noise from the intercooler. The bearings on the fans in my stock unit were shot within a month and many other people have the same experience, so it wasn’t just my unit. When I first noticed the fan noise (after a couple weeks of use) it would literally roar for the first few minutes. After a while it would quiet back down. Eventually, though, it was doing it constantly and I recognized the sound of bad bearings from having fans go bad in PC’s. I chose the Sunon Mag Lev fans for their low sound output based on the amount of air they move. I can attest that they are fairly quiet, but always make sure to think about your setup. How loud of a noise will bother you? Pretty much all fan manufactures will list a decibel rating on the fans they make. Check this stat on fans you look at. Also, when using quality fans, I don’t feel there is a need to mount three replacement fans. I just do one fan in the middle spot. This also lowers the overall noise of the unit and still keeps my box very cool. The first link below is a link to the Sunon fans I purchased from Future Electronics for $8 a piece (fantastic company, by the way, I recommend them for all your component needs). The second link is a link to the data sheet on Sunon’s web site.
Sunon 50x50x15mm Mag Lev Fans on Future Electronics Web SiteSunon Mag Lev Fan Data Sheet – KDE1205PHV2, Pg. 22I will not argue the need for cooling on the system, because I have done the tests and seen the results myself. Some sort of cooling is essential to a long Xbox 360 life, in my opinion.
Here it is.
List of Materials needed:
• Nyko Intercooler (I would recommend a cheap used one since it will be stripped and modded, but at only $20, hacking a new one isn’t a crime either)
• AC/DC Power Supply – Output: 12V, at approximately 300mA (anywhere between 200mA to 500mA should be fine)
Link:
Radio Shack Product Page• Size N or M surface mount coaxial DC power jack - depends on your power supply output plug size(Radio Shack sells both for about $3)
Link:
Radio Shack Product Page• Upgraded 12V fan(s) – 50x50x15mm (user choice, but remember to balance sound output with air movement)
• Miter Box (my local Ace Hardware had a small wood miter box for $8)
• Fine Tooth Plastic Cutting Blade (my local hobby store had one made by X-acto for $4)
• Soldering Iron or Cold Solder tool (I used cold solder for this, works better for quick work) and solder
• Small zip ties or other way to attach the new intercooler to the Xbox 360
• Uber Glue of some kind (I use Elmer’s imitation gorilla glue)
• Assorted tools – razor blade or exacto, needle nose pliers, soldering vice, good wire cutters/strippers, quick clamp, etc.
Step 1: PreparationThis section will cover everything you need to do in preparation for the project. Careful preparation and planning are key to not redoing the project and/or avoiding pitfalls.
• Disassemble the intercooler
The intercooler is pretty easy to take apart. Just take a small phillips screw driver and remove the two fans farthest from the power pass through. There are four screws in each fan. Then, you usually have to remove the power pass through to get the closest fan out. Again, just take the small screw driver and remove all the screws from the power pass through until you can pull it out (and the last fan).
• Prep the fan mounting holes
The mounting holes in the replacement fans I purchased were just a bit too small. So, I had to drill the holes slightly larger to fit the posts inside the intercooler. You will probably have to do this as well if you get replacement fans.
Step 2: Sawing The Intercooler UpNow it’s time to saw up the intercooler and remove that pesky power pass through. Grab that fine tooth plastic saw and the miter box and get to it.
You will most likely need a miter box to ensure very straight and clean cuts on the intercooler. This is key since later you will have to glue one cut part to the other and they need to match as closely as possible. Place and clamp the intercooler in the miter box so that you can use the straight cut guide. Take a look at the picture below.

Photo of intercooler clamped in miter box for sawing.
FIRST AND FOREMOST, remember to cut the end cap off first before cutting near the power pass through. Cutting it the other way around will make it really hard to make the second cut.
You will need to make two cuts on the intercooler. One at the very end to cut the “end cap” off and another to remove the rest of the power pass through. The picture below will show approximately where I made the cuts.

Photo of intercooler after both cuts.
My main recommendation when making the cuts is to try to make the finished product as short as possible. If you make it too long, it won’t fit in between the power plug and the A/V cables. Also, you need it as small as possible to fit some attachment device in the vent holes on the back of the 360. I used three zip ties and it works pretty good (also still removable with minimal effort).
Step 3: Gluing The Parts Back TogetherNow that you have the two cuts done, its time to glue the end cap back on to the main body of the intercooler.
First, I would recommend cleaning up all the cut edges with a razor blade or x-acto. A good flush fit of the two parts will make the unit much more solid once glued. Then, it’s up to you as to what kind of glue you use. I used the Elmer’s version of gorilla glue. I glued the two parts together and clamped it for a few hours. Below is a photo of the result. It’s rock solid after drying.

Photo of the glued parts clamped together for drying.
Step 4: Mounting The Power JackAfter your glue dries and the unit is solid, you can drill a hole for the power jack and mount it. It’s totally up to you where to put it. I recommend somewhere convenient on the top of the unit where you will have access to the plug. Check my final product picture at the top for where I located the power jack. Basically, just drill a hole of the appropriate size where ever you want it and screw the jack down.
Step 5: Mounting Holes For The IntercoolerNow, you need to drill a few extra small holes around the edges of the intercooler so that you can secure it to the back of the 360. I used two holes along the top edge of the cooler and one hole along the side. Again, this part is pretty much up to you. However you see fit to mount it will work as long as it is pretty flush with the back of the Xbox 360. See final product picture at the top for a better idea.
Step 6: Final Assembly and Mounting to the 360Well, at this point you should be ready to throw everything together and put it on the Xbox 360.
Mount the fan(s) in the intercooler and secure them. The fan holes should be drilled out to fit the intercooler mounting posts. Just slide the fans on the mounting posts and secure with screws.
Then, you need to solder the wire leads from the fans to the power jack. The middle post on the bottom of the power jack is for the red wire, or positive, and the outside post is for the black wire, or ground. This should take about two minutes to solder up.
Below is a photo of everything completed inside the intercooler.

Photo of finished product before mounting on the Xbox 360.
TEST TIME. Make sure and test your finished product, of course, before putting it on the Xbox 360. Just plug the power supply in to the jack and the fan(s) should whirr with cooling goodness.
The last step is mounting it to the Xbox 360. I leave this step mostly up to the end user since each mod may be a bit different, or the end user has a different mounting preference or idea. But basically, I used three small zip ties and just snugged it down to the back of the Xbox 360.
Enjoy a cooler Xbox 360 without the danger of the power pass through from the original intercooler!
Contact Info
Erik M.
Yahoo email: beardawg252002@yahoo.com
Go to my Fickr page for more pictures of my project.
This post has been edited by beardawg252002: Jun 1 2007, 11:05 PM