Water Cooling With Reserator 1 V2 Options

[openxdkman]

Yeah, it's big...
I like its "atomic bomb" look... Hehe (See photographs on Zalnan site)
Vertical cylinder (15cm diameter, 60cm tall, 6.5Kg empty, 9Kg when filled up)

So it only occupies a 15cmx15cm square surface on top of PC. 360 will be close to it on top of my PC too. To minimize pressure resistance for pump, 360 has to be at same ground level as the base of the water cooling tower. I just worry a bit about the final weight (9Kg).
Reserator V2 is totally different : half the amount of liquid, not a tower but a very wide radiator. I rather like Reserator 1 V2, for the look, definitely.

Someone gave me a digital camera but he lost the cord and battery recharger...
He said he will try a last time to find them in the mess of his house...

Anyway all photographs already exist (see links above). What doesn't exist yet and is the most interesting thing is this semi-circular metallic clamp (let's name them "360 moon clamps") that could be the cheapest and ultimate solution for XClamp removal (on working 360's, not broken ones, with or without X-matic).
Need to create it and then I can take pictures of it (individual clamps keeping X-matic "glued" to board, so I can apply the as5 thermal paste only once and thereafter, move freely board around in all directions in order to solder wires... for some more "firmware swapping" fun).

This post has been edited by openxdkman: Jul 15 2007, 11:24 PM

[openxdkman]

I've got an idea in order to create plastic prototypes of these "360 Moon Clamps" :

CODE

Plastic Decorative Screw Cap :
                          _______________
                        / _______________ \
   ____________________| |               | |
  |  _/<-3mm->\_  |----| |               | |
  | |           | |    |_|               |_|
  |_|           |_|

Half of it (for RBJTech MkII) :
                  
   _______________
  |  _/<-3mm->\_  |
  | |           | |
  |_|           |_|


Quarter of it (as 360 Moon Clamp prototype) :
   _______________
  |  _/<-3mm->\_  |
  '-'           '-'

If it was made of metal, I would cut in half again along diameter in order to get half circles (if viewed from top/bottom).
But since it's made of plastic it can be removed by force (when clamped around a leg) and cheap to replace.

I use a pincer in one of my hand and a deadly cutter blade in the other hand. I keep my fingers far away from the blade and I aim the middle of the screw cap (cap is gone actually, its base is left alone). The goal is to have the part thickness go down by half.

(The link of the site that sells them can be found in the earlier post. They don't accept sales under $10, so you will end up buying 50 of them for $10... No need to spare them then...)

It seems to work. The X-Matic (or Heat sinks) stays "glued" to the board.

[alpha_prime]

You're using the original pegs from the 360's stock heatsin, right? Wouldn't it be simpler to replace them with some threaded M5 pieces? It would work like most clamp replacements, but the other way around: Screw threads in wc block, add spacers, place on mb, screw on, place in frame and screw them on the frame with some nuts. I think it would work

You're using the original pegs from the 360's stock heatsink, right? Wouldn't it be simpler to replace them with some threaded M5 pieces? It would work like most clamp replacements, but the other way around: Screw threads in wc block, add spacers, place on mb, screw on, place in frame and screw them on the frame with some nuts. I think it would work

[openxdkman]

That's similar to MkIII (have to drill bottom case)

If 360 Moon clamps exist, the whole method will require no drilling and no extra parts (like washers, spacers, machine screws or whatever).
Re-using original legs allows to keep the exact expected space between X-Matic/HS and chipsets.
I believe the less mechanics skill is required, the more people will attempt to save their vulnerable 360.
If not enough vulnerable 360 survive the coming 2-5 years, 360 homebrew will die fast.

I've made 4 out of the 8 required "360 Moon Clamps" prototypes so far... It's boring to cut them in half with a cutter blade. Will try to make one per day. Next weekend I should be able to test water cooling with it.

This post has been edited by openxdkman: Jul 16 2007, 05:08 PM

[alpha_prime]

That's similar to MkIII (have to drill bottom case)

If 360 Moon clamps exist, the whole method will require no drilling and no extra parts (like washers, spacers, machine screws or whatever).
Re-using original legs allows to keep the exact expected space between X-Matic/HS and chipsets.
I believe the less mechanics skill is required, the more people will attempt to save their vulnerable 360.
If not enough vulnerable 360 survive the coming 2-5 years, 360 homebrew will die fast.

I've made 4 out of the 8 required "360 Moon Clamps" prototypes so far... It's boring to cut them in half with a cutter blade. Will try to make one per day. Next weekend I should be able to test water cooling with it.

Microsoft is already busy fixing there mistake, i'm sure the troubles will be gone by then....

But yeah, for now, it's a good idea to make the x-clamp replacement as easy as possible for everyone. It would be a good idea to look into stock components that can work like that. maybe some nylon bolts?

[openxdkman]

Can you please post a link to these nylon bolts? Actually any link to any piece that can "clamp" individually the original 360 heat sinks legs will be great. So far I only see the decorative screw cap base, cut in half.

Good news... I've ordered the missing cord for the digital camera, I will be able to show some pictures soon.
I better take pics of the cleaned up chipset and the location where I will put the "XCM 360 High Speed Air Cooler" temperature probes beside them, before I put the arctic silver 5 thermal paste and clamp the X-Matic over them (I plan to not have fans, if possible, but instant display of temperatures is great).

8 out the 8 required "360 moon clamps" made... (Actually if a metal version comes out, with a side of it cut out, a better name would be "360 pacman clamps", but it's a trade mark so better not use it... But that helps to figure out its shape...)

I hope camera cord will arrive by saturday, so I can take pics, paste, clamp and water cool...

This post has been edited by openxdkman: Jul 19 2007, 05:42 PM

[openxdkman]

Ok guys, it's D day for me...

This photograph below shows the X-Matic water block.
- The original heatsinks legs are screwed on it.
- The tookit behind is the "Access Pro Toolkit V2".
- Its screw driver, without head, has the right shape for easy legs screwing.



This photograph below shows my 360 board.
- In upper left corner, 4 orange wires connect a RJ11 female plug to the serial port.
- The blue case with 2 transparent fans is the "XCM High Speed Air Cooler".
- From the blue case goes two temperature probes. I've used electric tapes to glue them.



I will now put a small amount of Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste on the 7 surfaces covered by X-Matic
(2 on the GPU chipset) and then clamp the legs with 8 plastic "360 moon clamps" prototypes...

This post has been edited by openxdkman: Mar 28 2009, 09:37 PM

[openxdkman]

The photograph below shows the X-Matic legs clamped with plastic prototype of 360 moon clamps.
- Pressure is high enough to keep X-Matic, temperature probes and AS5 thermal paste in place.
- In upper corner I show you a (not cut in half) decorative screw cap (that will do MkII method).
- Each time I will reopen 360 I won't fear to see paste go away or move. All is "glued" enough.



Now, it's time to reassemble the 360 and play with tubes...



This post has been edited by openxdkman: Mar 28 2009, 09:39 PM

[openxdkman]

This photograph shows how to keep in place the black screws... with a few tapes



This photograph shows how to put 8 more screw cap bases (not cut in half this time) on screws.
- Notice that you see up here the plastic 360 moon clamps prototypes from the side



Now you can screw firmly the board to the metal bottom case again.
But the magic is you can reopen the 360 anytime, the X-Matic will stay "glued" to the board.

CODE

    |/   Leg    |     <-X-Matic (or heat sink)
____|/          |_____
__[_             _]___<-Hexagonal shape
____|<---4mm--->|_____<-Board (thickness = 1.5 mm)
  | |           | |<----Plastic clamp prototype (half a screw cap)
  |___\<-3mm->/___|  
  | |           | |
  | |   |/  |   | |<----Decorative Screw Cap
__|__\__|/  |__/__|___
________|/  |_________<-Metal bottom case of 360
       \_____/
          ^
   Black small screw (2mm, Torx 8)

It's like MkII with screw cap upside down and washer replaced with clamp prototype.

This post has been edited by openxdkman: Mar 28 2009, 09:41 PM

[openxdkman]

SUCCESS!




After hours of Oblivion and its pause that shows your character and makes GPU heat up a lots, I can say that :
- Before water cooling I could reach GPU=60 degrees Celcius and CPU=52 degrees Celcius.
- After water cooling I now read GPU=43 degrees Celcius and CPU=48 degrees Celcius.

I knew, since water is going through a linear circuit, that one of the two would be better cooled than the other (logical). I'm relieved the circuit in X-Matic cools GPU first (I send water to it in right tube).

If I touch the tubes, of course, the going in one is cold/warm and the going out one is warm/hot.

The noise made by the pump of Reserator 1 V2 is very low (like someone humming 10m away of you)

Now I no longer fear from the XClamps (removed) or the GPU temperature... (17 degrees down)

Note that the massive tank gets very warm... Accessories exist to cool it down. But as it is, GPU is cool enough for me and it's pure silence. That's all that counts for me.

I'm ready to play with Infectus now... But that's another story and won't appear in this forum.
(See Software Exploits Development / Research :
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=607877 )

This post has been edited by openxdkman: Mar 28 2009, 09:41 PM

[openxdkman]

A few final suggestions :

- If you don't have a "special" 360 (like a vulnerable one allowing free homebrew), just play the game of the eternal warranty and let your 360 die.

- Stick a vertical sign on the power on button of the 360, like :
Sw
On
Wc
1st!
"Switch on the Water cooler (pump) first!"

- Don't expect this method to fix a broken 360. It will just prevent a working one to die.
(See RBJtech MkI and MkIII for fixing a broken one)

This post has been edited by openxdkman: Jul 22 2007, 02:41 PM

[alpha_prime]

A few final suggestions :

- If you don't have a "special" 360 (like a vulnerable one allowing free homebrew), just play the game of the eternal warranty and let your 360 die.

- Stick a vertical sign on the power on button of the 360, like :
Sw
On
Wc
1st!
"Switch on the Water cooler (pump) first!"

- Don't expect that this method will fix a broken 360. It should just prevents a working one to die.
(See RBJtech MkI and MkIII for fixing a broken one)

Good to see that it all worked out for you. Doesn't the zalman reserator use a 12v power supply? You could then use the 12v from under the 360's motherboard, so it would switch on automatically.

[sq24]

Have you try and put back on the air shroud. Those fans would be more affect that way. Then run the tubing around the air shroud. With air shround you might be able to pull a few more lower temps.

[sicknasty413]

I love the 1 waterblock solution. Awesome job.

[openxdkman]

Thx.

Strangely, there is just a 220v cord going out from the massive tank base... No external 12V PSU.

About Fans, I actually plan to put them to lowest speed or replace them with something else completely silent (after all I no longer need them to cool down the processors). Just need a minimal air flow to avoid small heat accumulation...

Silence is gold...

This post has been edited by openxdkman: Jul 22 2007, 08:31 PM