Water Cooling With Reserator 1 V2 Options

[alpha_prime]

Thx.

Strangely, there is just a 220v cord going out from the massive tank base... No external 12V PSU.

About Fans, I actually plan to put them to lowest speed or replace them with something else completely silent (after all I no longer need them to cool down the processors). Just need a minimal air flow to avoid small heat accumulation...

Silence is gold...

that's weird, i always thought it had a 12v connection, thanks for letting me know

Yeah, it's best to have some airflow in there, for capacitors and ramchips etc. Do you have any heatsinks on the ramchips? They get quite hot, not extremely hot though.

[sicknasty413]

^ The waterblock covers the RAM chips..

[alpha_prime]

^ The waterblock covers the RAM chips..

LOL, totally forgot about that, my mistake

[MickRaider]

Someone just needs to make a completely internal water cooling solution. Seeing that innovatek one makes me think it wouldn't be too much harder for someone to design a cooling block and pump that fits easily inside the xbox case, maybe even a custom fan shroud to cool it... hmm

[alpha_prime]

Someone just needs to make a completely internal water cooling solution. Seeing that innovatek one makes me think it wouldn't be too much harder for someone to design a cooling block and pump that fits easily inside the xbox case, maybe even a custom fan shroud to cool it... hmm

Would be nice, although, i couldn't care less for internal, i'd rather have something semi-internal. I really wished ekwaterblocks made a high quality waterblock for the 360, the innovatek one is nice but the aluminium block needs special coolant. I really don't like that, i'd rather have a full copper one.

[sicknasty413]

I know that G0t m4xx21 and xboxexpert had worked together on a "one waterblock" solution. Very similar to what was used here.

I have no idea if they made plans/drawings for a radiator. It wouldn't be hard. Just design a radiator that fits where the stock fans are. 10-15mm thick. Capable of being cooled by 2 60/65/70mm fans (these fans would either have to be custom or be around 10mm thick).

Then all you'd have to do is just drop the waterblock in. Drop the fan/rad combo in. Then throw a pump in there somewhere. Run your tubes. Solder wires where needed. And bam.. done.

[alpha_prime]

I know that G0t m4xx21 and xboxexpert had worked together on a "one waterblock" solution. Very similar to what was used here.

I have no idea if they made plans/drawings for a radiator. It wouldn't be hard. Just design a radiator that fits where the stock fans are. 10-15mm thick. Capable of being cooled by 2 60/65/70mm fans (these fans would either have to be custom or be around 10mm thick).

Then all you'd have to do is just drop the waterblock in. Drop the fan/rad combo in. Then throw a pump in there somewhere. Run your tubes. Solder wires where needed. And bam.. done.

Sounds nice, although: how will you fill it up? you'll need at least a reservoir, cause a dual 60 mm radiator, 15 mm thick is really small compared to a thick 80 mm radiator or a 120 mm radiator. a normal design ( tubes covered with fins) will only allow 3 or 6 tubes, not really much. A louver fin radiator is kinda hard to make. If you could make a radiator like that, it would be possible, although cooling capacity won't be that great.

[openxdkman]

I must add a little late discovery :
After filling up Reserator 1 V2 with 2l. of distilled water and 0.5l of ZM-G200 coolant, I've closed the top cap very tightly. But I could still reopen it.

After it warmed up, I now have a lots of difficutly to reopen it. I can make it turn slowly with huge strength but I guess temperature change (pressure inside?) has made it much more difficult to reopen.

Theoretically you have to reopen it once a year to change water and coolant.

So here is a little new advice : don't close the cap too tightly...

This post has been edited by openxdkman: Jul 23 2007, 10:08 AM

[sicknasty413]

Sounds nice, although: how will you fill it up? you'll need at least a reservoir, cause a dual 60 mm radiator, 15 mm thick is really small compared to a thick 80 mm radiator or a 120 mm radiator. a normal design ( tubes covered with fins) will only allow 3 or 6 tubes, not really much. A louver fin radiator is kinda hard to make. If you could make a radiator like that, it would be possible, although cooling capacity won't be that great.

You could fit a radiator in there somewhere..Dano2k0 did it in his completely internal watercooled 360. I'm not sure if his radiator protruded the space that one would need for this "rad/fan" combo I mentioned..

[MickRaider]

Theoretically you have to reopen it once a year to change water and coolant.

So here is a little new advice : don't close the cap too tightly...

When water evaporates into steam it also increases the pressure of the air, that combined with the increase in temperatures expanded both the plastic and the coolant/gases inside resevoir. If you really can't get it open it just needs to be cooled. Stick your 360 in a air tight bag and suck out all the air possible, then close it off, then stick it in the fridge until it cools down, after that you'll be able to get it off.

This post has been edited by MickRaider: Jul 23 2007, 07:40 PM

[alpha_prime]

You could fit a radiator in there somewhere..Dano2k0 did it in his completely internal watercooled 360. I'm not sure if his radiator protruded the space that one would need for this "rad/fan" combo I mentioned..

sure, but it will be hard to make it look 'stock', there just isn't that much room for fans+radiator in the back. I'm currently getting parts for watercooled xbox nr.2, using a 80 mm black ice micro mounted to the outside of the case: heaps of space inside the 360+ i actually like the look more then a "fully internal watercooling", seems more organic

I'm still looking for some nice gpu and cpu blocks, too bad the x-matic is aluminium...

Anyway, might be best to stop talking about this here, we really should be talking about this fine mod

[openxdkman]

Even cold, the tank cap gave me lots of trouble but I managed to re-open it. All is fine now.
(Really, don't close it too tightly when you will try your mod!)

Tank is massive anodized pure aluminium (6.5Kg!)...
So, finally, I don't regret that X-Matic is aluminium too.
For "oxydo-reduction" that makes things safer (only one type of metal).

This post has been edited by openxdkman: Jul 24 2007, 10:49 AM

[openxdkman]

About re-using Reserator 1 V2 for cooling other machines.

I don't like the idea to create just one linear cooling circuitry that would go through all machines.

I've searched on internet but without success, then asked directly to Zalman where to order additionnal "quick coupling insert 2EA" that would allow me to create alternate circuitry.

So, I can swap quickly between 360 cooling and, for example, the silent cooling of my uber noisy ATI graphic card Radeon X1300 Pro... Since a GPU alu waterblock came with reserator and I haven't used it yet.
I use silent fanless GeForce 7300 GT, but I've got this ATI graphic card in order to help me learn how to program ATI GPU's (360 has an ATI GPU). But its fan makes more noise than the original 360...

They redirected me to the site www.sharkacomputers.com:
http://www.sharkacomputers.com/zarepa.html
"Zalman Res1 Plus Quick Couplings" seems to be what I need ($20).
With all the extra tube left and the Alu water block, I will re-use the tank to cool my ATI card.
So the total 350 euros cost of the mod can be considered to be only 150 euros if tank can be re-used in other cooling tasks.

EDIT:
I've ordered some and I've received them. They are identical to the coupling at the base of the Zalman tank. So this site is the right one to order them if you want to create alternate tube based cooling circuitry, easy to unplug or replug at the base of the Zalman tank (Quick Coupling Insert 2EA for Reserator 1 plus, 1 V2, 2, etc...).

This post has been edited by openxdkman: Aug 3 2007, 11:57 AM

[openxdkman]

Now, you can find the link to this thread in the pinned topic :
"Tutorials/faq/guides/information"
Section "Cooling mods"
"X-Clamps removal (Plastic clamps/MkII) + WC (X-Matic/Reserator 1 V2)"

This post has been edited by openxdkman: Jul 25 2007, 07:20 AM

[syoes]

I'm currently putting together a 360 x-matic/ Danger den setup. My question is when you insalled your (moon caps). Did they snap into place or are they just a little snug. I like your idea but im just a little worried that they would not produce enough pressure on the heatsink/die.