New Version of Wireless Controller Board, CG, Looky what M$ did... Options

[Heet]

Man, dissapointing. Big FU to M$. (yes I know they are a business saving money, and with all of the problems they have, they need to).


Thanks for doing all that RDC!

[Perplexer]

Well, what I would have given for a 360 pad with common ground when I was converting my multi-system arcade stick... it would have been able to STAY a multi-system stick. (Currently it is 360-only)

Thanks for the research, RDC

[RDC]

You're Welcome guys. This is the first one I've seen and haven't seen one since, I imagine the new Wireless Guitars will be of a similar setup internally, but I'll have to wait until I get one to tear down and see.

This thing really does su-diddily-uck for most typical controller alterations, it's only really good use would be for a multi-system arcade stick to ease that mess, but for even the simple thing of adding an extra set of buttons on this is gonna be much more difficult that the older Wireless controller is by far.

[RDC]

All Buttons and Analog lines are now traced out (previous pics in this thread updated also) so this this is pretty much a done deal. If anyone needs a Higher Resolution (1600 x 800 or so) shot of them or a certain spot shoot me a PM and let me know. I did these up a little differently where I can remove all traces I've mapped out but the one ya wanna look at, so if ya need to just see something specific (like only the D-pad up trace for example) I can do that as well. I was about 1/4 of the way into the older ones before I realized I should been doing them this way, and at that point it was too late to erase what I'd started, so they're staying as is until I feel like wasting that colossal amount of time again to do them right like I did these.


Back - Light Blue
Guide - White w/Green Dot
Start - Orange
Sync - Dark Purple

A - Green
B - Red
X - Blue
Y - Yellow

D-pad Up - Yellow w/Black Dot
D-pad Down - Green w/Black Dot
D-pad Left - Blue w/Black Dot
D-pad Right - Red w/Black Dot

LB - Pink
RB - Purple

LSC (Left Stick Click / button) - Pink w/White Dot
RSC (Right Stick Click / button) - Purple w/White Dot

LT (Wiper) Blue w/Red Dot
RT (Wiper) Red w/Blue Dot

Left Stick (Wipers) X,Y Axis
White w/Blue X
White w/Blue Y

Right Stick (Wipers) X,Y Axis
White w/Red X
White w/Red Y


This is now a full common Ground controller setup, so the other side of any button is the exact same as the other side of every other button and ya can use any one of them for all of them, even the (-) Ground terminal for the AA batteries can be used, it's all connected and is Ground.

There really are no 'easy' spots on this thing to hit for adding extra buttons or making an Arcade Stick, but for the latter most people just scrape down the button contacts and use those spots which is still viable on this controller, but I don't care that method personally. So I may or may not point out all the Vias to hit on this board, if ya can do that kind of work where ya can scrape down the Via and not ruin it, then solder to it properly, ya don't need me to point out how, and if ya can't then ya shouldn't even be attempting it until ya practiced and can, or just have someone else do it that can to start with.


TOP



BOTTOM


This post has been edited by RDC: Mar 8 2013, 06:12 PM

[RDC]

Just a little update, as was already pointed out earlier by YUNG ERIC, if ya see C62 ya have the old board, though it's easier to look for L6/L1 on the right of the Headset connector (Old Matrix) or for C15 to the left of the Headset connector (New CG) to tell which board ya have. Here are a couple of pics of the New CG board compared to the Old Matrix board and what they look like thru the battery compartment, so ya can easily tell which ya have before cracking it open.







The CG2 thread can be found HERE

This post has been edited by RDC: Jan 14 2010, 04:03 PM

[qweewqaz]

nvm

This post has been edited by qweewqaz: Sep 23 2007, 11:46 PM

[pablot]

looks like they've done a hefty amount of optimizing. As you said, this must be heaps cheaper to produce for them. Also, having a linear (or CG as you call it) layout of the buttons is much easier to control and program for, but requires more I/O. I find it odd that they don't have more test points for factory testing though, but I guess its mostly PCB wise that it can go wrong here, and they'll do e-testing for that so the TP's aren't really needed for that.

I'm wouldn't be surprised if we see a similar optimization for the rf-board (ROL board) pretty soon too.

/p

[mikemikemikemikemike]

which is the actual part that sends te radio waves to the 360, i dont know much about that so please dont flame

[RDC]

which is the actual part that sends te radio waves to the 360, i dont know much about that so please dont flame

Are you referring to the Antenna? It's above the PnC connector at the top of the board. As for the actual RF 'circuits', those are now contained in the main IC there, the big black square, where on the older version Wireless it has a separate module for it.

[pablot]

man.. looked at the pictures again.. they really shredded the component count on this version, albeit that new IC might be a bit more expensive (doubt that it though, compared to the two ICs they had on the previous version).

[vacuuum]

Just wondering if you guys have opened a Halo Edition controller.
If so I would like to know which PCB it has.
Btw, great work with RDC.
Been thinking of modding my wireless, but I haven't got the tools for it

[RDC]

As far as I know the Halo controllers are the new version like this from what I've been hearing, but I haven't seen another one personally. This one came from a Black Wireless that comes with the PnC kit, but the next one I bought was the old version board. I'm sure before long they'll be turning up in all of the controllers though.

[SpArTaN323853]

The controller almost has a full CG. The RT and the LT are not connected to the CG. They still have their own grounds. I was modding my controller and was trying to use the CG to produce the RT trigger button. It doesn't work. You have to use the ground directly from the trigger.

[RDC]

That's not ground, it's voltage. The Triggers on this version board go high (voltage to wiper) to activate, on the older version matrix board they went low (ground to wiper) to activate. It's still a full common ground controller, the Triggers are Analog like the Sticks are and don't follow that same setup. They're still connected to the same ground everything else is though to keep them 'off' thru the 10k of the POT.

This post has been edited by RDC: Nov 6 2007, 08:07 AM

[SpArTaN323853]

what do you mean by "wipers"? I am trying to connect the RT to a PIC microcontroller that will send out shoot signals. The way I did it on the old ones isn't working with this one. Do you know how I would need to connect it?

This post has been edited by SpArTaN323853: Nov 6 2007, 04:12 PM