New Version of Wireless Controller Board, CG, Looky what M$ did... Options

[cu_cu]

Hi RDC,

I need to trouble with some more questions. I looked back at your other tutorial an noticed that you incorporated the battery holder section of the bottom of the wireless controller shell on the outside of your arcade stick like one:

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?sho...1887&st=120

Post #128

I like the idea of being able to use AA battery or the PnC battery. My question is if I want to do what you did, will i need to desolder anything from the PBC and mount it to the side of the box(or where ever I want the battery to be located at) along with the battery holder? If you can give me some tip on what to do or maybe a picture of how it look inside, that would help alot =). Thanks in advance.

[RDC]

If you want to make the battery pack 'external' like that you'll have to desolder the AA and PnC battery pack connectors form the controller board so you can mount them to the back of the controller shell.

You'll need to remove the connectors, then solder the length of wire you need to them, don't solder the wires up to the controller just yet or you'll have that whole mess dangling from them while you're trying to glue them to the shell.

After that you'll need to glue the terminals to the shell in the positions they would be in normally. All that's really needed for this is hot glue, but if you're looking for it to be permanent to the point of needing a Dremel to replace the terminals if you ever have to, then get some Plastic Welder by Devcon, there are other 'plastic epoxies', but if you want a good one that Devcon is it, but hot glue will do the trick as well.

With the PnC connector you'll want to plug a PnC battery pack in the shell so you have that as a spacer and guide so when you hold the connector on there it's in the exact spot. Hold the connector there, make sure you have it oriented the right way and put a bit of hot glue on each side and then hold it in place until it's dried, give it a good couple minutes, then take the battery pack out (while still holding, not pushing, on to the connector) and you should have it there all lined up. If it's not perfect don't worry about it, it doesn't have to be. After that go around the connector with a good bit more hot glue to hold it in place. *(If you're using plastic welder instead, you'll go thru the same process up to this point, and it's best to use hot glue first to hold the connector in place, unless you plan to hold the thing there until that stuff cures, 5-10 minutes, either way it all gets done the same)

Pics of how some of the process typically goes..

[cu_cu]

Thanks alot RDC!! Now where can I get these Plastic Welder from? Walmart? Hardware store?

[RDC]

Thanks alot RDC!! Now where can I get these Plastic Welder from? Walmart? Hardware store?

WalMart used to carry it, but the crap they have now that replaced it is useless, spit would work better to hold the plastic together than that stuff does. Just use hot glue, especially for your first go at it since it's easier to redo if ya happen to make a mess, that's what's on that one in the pics there and the glue gun as well as sticks at WalMart are right cheap also.

This post has been edited by RDC: Aug 31 2009, 04:43 AM

[oolongtea]

Hi, everybody. I have a question for confirmation. So, none of the TP is for any of the button, right?
For CG wireless.

thanks,

[RDC]

Correct.

[bubble_gum]

Hello everybody. I have a big problem. I have this version of controller




I opened controller and modyficate some things (f.e. triggers). Then i put controller in plastic form. Suddenly controler won't turn on. I open it again and i saw that electronical patrt show on picture is missing ( C 3). I have also 2 broken controllers (for parts): and wired .

Is the controller don't work because of missing electronic part (C3)? Is there any possibility of repair it? Is there any parts from two models of my broken controllers that i can put in the first controller and repair it? Plese answer and show me at pictures.

This post has been edited by bubble_gum: Oct 12 2009, 02:23 PM

[RDC]

With C3 missing the controller will still work, so that is not the problem. Go back and undo whatever you did to the controller, that's most likely where the real problem is.

[bubble_gum]

What about missing C8 frome here?

[RDC]

Nope.

The only way those Capacitors missing could cause an issue is if the leftover bits of them are causing a short between the 2 spots where it's installed, so make sure that isn't happening, but removing both of those Capacitors will not cause the controller to stop working.

[rafaliyo]

Hi, I have a problem. First I had rb button broken I had a "bridge" and I solved it but now I have de LT broken, I have been seeing the points and I have done a new "bridge" but dont work. However when i push with mi finger on the board where is the three points of the lt sometimes it works. Somebody could tell me where I had to do the correct "bridge"

Thanks

[RDC]

Hi, I have a problem. First I had rb button broken I had a "bridge" and I solved it but now I have de LT broken, I have been seeing the points and I have done a new "bridge" but dont work. However when i push with mi finger on the board where is the three points of the lt sometimes it works. Somebody could tell me where I had to do the correct "bridge"

Thanks

The reason it sometimes works when you touch the board is because you're changing the Resistance/Capacitance on that line and that is causing the Trigger line to fire, it's Analog and is sensitive to changes like that.

Without seeing what and where the damage is it's hard to say what you'll need to do exactly to repair it.

[rugalcs]

Hello to everyone!

First of all, give thanks to RDC for doing all of this tutorial. I'm trying to convert my 15th anniversary SF stick to the 360 and I have read the last two days many threads from hear, including this whole one.

I got a question about the triggers LT and RT, without removing the triggers from the CG Board:

As I understand, for example, for the RT "button" on the stick, we need to connect RT1 & RT2 with an individual wire (black & red wire) to the same connect of the stick button.

After that, what about the Ground? we need to connect RT1 to the other stick button connector (brown wire on the image) ?

And them, the same for the other RT trigger, or the same ground for the LT is valid?

Sorry for this questions, but after a thousand of post I haven't got clear.

Thanks once again, RDC!

[RDC]

How you have that wired up there in that diagram will cause the Trigger to act like it's pulled all the time. Forget all about that Black line there and that's all you have to do if you leave the Triggers intact. Two wires to the new button and that's it. If you want to 'daisy chain' the Triggers together you can, that redish/brown 'ground' connection can be shared, but it should NOT be shared with any other buttons and it's not Ground, it's the Analog Voltage line.

[bubble_gum]

Hello everybody. I have a big problem. I have this version of controller


I opened controller and modyficate some things (f.e. triggers). Then i put controller in plastic form. Suddenly controler won't turn on. I open it again and i saw that electronical patrt show on picture is missing ( C 3). I have also 2 broken controllers (for parts): and wired .

Is the controller don't work because of missing electronic part (C3)? Is there any possibility of repair it? Is there any parts from two models of my broken controllers that i can put in the first controller and repair it? Plese answer and show me at pictures.

I come back to this controller one more time. No it is in that condition which was before. But isn't working too.
I notice that if i put batteries to him this points are hot:
My Webpage

Any idea what's that mean?