New Wired Controller Board, CL, Looky what M$ did...(again) Options

[RDC]

There's a new version of the Wired controller board now, not a Common Ground setup like the New Wireless one is, but it does use a 'Common Line' for all of the buttons (it has voltage on it) and most definitely is redesigned from every other point it could be and has a much lower component count, which means it's cheaper for them to make, but still costs you the same price, nice huh?

TOP



BOTTOM




Just about every button on the controller has a nice TP spot to hit, except LB and RB for whatever odd reason.


TP4 - Common Line for Buttons, 1.8v
TP5 - Analog Voltage (Sticks/Triggers)
TP6 - LED+ for D1, D2, D3, D4 - Also Headset connector VCC
TP9 - LT
TP10 - RT
TP11 - RSY
TP12 - RSX
TP13 - LSY
TP14 - LSX
TP24 - LED D3 -
TP25 - LED D1 -
TP26 - LED D4 -
TP27 - LED D2 -
TP30 - RSC
TP31 - LSC
TP32 - DL
TP33 - DU
TP34 - DR
TP35 - DD
TP36 - Common Line for Buttons, 1.8v
TP37 - Common Line for Buttons, 1.8v
TP38 - Y
TP39 - A
TP40 - Start
TP41 - Back
TP42 - Guide
TP43 - B
TP44 - X
TP100 - GND
TP101 - GND
TP102 - GND

This post has been edited by RDC: May 4 2012, 07:23 AM

[brandogg]

That's a really cheap looking board, but it looks very easy to use for modding with other controllers.

[RDC]

Updated the pics with most of the traces now and added some more of the TP spots and what they do.

One really, really kool thing about this board here is how compact all of the 'vital' components are grouped on the thing. If one were so inclined (and I will be once I get around to it) you can cut this board down to around a 2in x 1.25in size with little rebuilding to have it working and stuff it in just about anything to make a wired 360 controller. This is unlike the other version boards where it has to stay a pretty good size and then requires a ton of rebuild work so it's functional again. This board could pretty easily be stuffed into an NES controller shell.

That's a really cheap looking board, but it looks very easy to use for modding with other controllers.

Though it does have a common line and all of the buttons use it, it's voltage not ground, so using it with other common ground setup controllers is doable, but that part of it has to be setup correctly so there wouldn't be any issues there, and all that means essentially is use a SPDT switch really to go between the CG of the one board, then the CL of this board, as far as the buttons go anyway.

[twistedsymphony]

That's AMAZING!!!

I can't believe they made a more hacker friendly board

Any idea if the buttons can be driven by an external power source?
eg: if I hook a PIC directly to the chip and drive it high will it register as a button press? if so I'm going out to buy a dozen of these friggin things

Also any idea how to tell if a controller is the new style or old style before you buy it?

[RDC]

Hey twisted,

Check out the new CG Wireless version also, it's Common Ground now and made for stuffing it into a Duke shell a load easier, though still a mess. With the amount you can hack this board down you could stuff it in almost anything and make a 360 controller.

The Common Line of this controller sits at 1.8v, so yes you can just drive the pins high and make it work.

No way at all to tell what you're getting really. I guess it's possible there's some kind of code on the packaging that might give it away somewhere, but I haven't been looking into that. For the most part the newer version boards are becoming more and more common place, so snag one from here or there and see what ya get. Some place that sells a lot of them is more likely to have the newer version ones also since the older ones would have been sold already, but they're still out there too. Looking forward to seeing what ya do with one of these now.

[twistedsymphony]

I like common ground setups but My next project is definitly going to use a WIRED controller, dealing with battery voltages was a total pain with the Saturn adapter, mostly because I'm horrible with designing for efficiency.

Also I'm considering this for the Achievement Machine, and many of the uses involve letting it run for hours/days at a time so a hard wired device makes a whole lot more sense.

Also I'm interested in leaving in the original shell so the controller can still be used normally, I'd like to get the bottom half of a wireless controller so I can gut the battery bay and use that to house my AVR/other components to make it look as factory as possible.

There are a few other project I might tackle but this is the one I have in mind right now.

a common line setup is so awesome for custom modifications, it literally cuts my part count by over 80% I might even be able to get this done with a single chip if I'm crafty.

EDIT:
Interesting enough this hack was featured on hack-a-day today: http://www.acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=17385.0

they use the new style controllers to build PIC controlled macros

in any case they also produced the model numbers of the controllers they used

Wired: X811616-005
Wireless: X801769-026

I have no idea if these are the same as the older types or not, but at least it's something.

This post has been edited by twistedsymphony: Apr 22 2008, 04:24 PM

[RDC]

I doubt those numbers will really do anyone any good. I've gone thru the pile I have here from older and newer version Wireless boards and their all about the same..

Wireless: X801769-004 thru -039

Plus a couple older ones I have from I don't even remember how far back that could be from either Wired or Wireless controllers X807968-001 and X809478-001

I know most of these have all been a mix of Matrix and CG boards, so it's a crap shoot what you'll get really. I just bought 2 Wireless controllers from Amazon, one was a CG (-024) and the other was a Matrix style (-018) and nothing at all different on the outside of the packaging to tell one from the other, same M$ part # for both X11-22282-06 is on the outside of the packaging, and I imagine the Wired controllers are the same way.

[twistedsymphony]

that really sucks

[FreedomFighter360]

After seeing this post that RDC made a while ago I decided to get one of the CL wired controllers for my 360 keyboard/mouse project since it would be easier to use then the old controller.

I had luck finding one rather easily by look into the package at the back of the controller for X811616-005 number. I believe this is pretty consistent only because I see that the newest XFPS360 was incompatible with this series of controllers, probably because of the redesign.

As RDC the numbers could be wrong, but if you were trying to get one of these controllers I would look for 005 on the back of the controller as you best hope.

I want to Thank RDC for posting this! Your guides have been so helpful for me and I am sure a lot of other people!

On a side note, I had put my mod aside for quite a while now but after reading that I can function a button by driving it high with the pin of a PIC!! I am so ecstatic to start working on it again.

The only concern/question is most of the PICs that I own set a pin high to 5v... I wonder if that will be OK if it only requires 1.8v normally. Hopefully someone can answer that question for me.

Thanks!

[FreedomFighter360]

*Update*

I just confirmed that attaching a PIC pin to a button and setting that pin high will activate the button!!!

This is incredible!

Just remember it has to be one of these new board layouts.

[jerbi]

So I bought a wired controller with the idea that I'd stuff its guts into my sf anniversary stick. I've never modded a controller before but I was excited at the prospect of having my stick work with my 360.
The current state of things now is that I tried attaching wires to the front of the card, only to have one of the copper(?) "pads" that I exposed pull off the board. Frustrated, I did some more research on the shoryuken forums and landed finally on this thread. I was then excited at the prospect of using the diagrams provided here and soldering to the contacts on the back of the board. After having some success, I then pulled two more "pads" off the board.
For wiring I'm pulling apart CAT-6 cable I got from work.

I guess my questions are:
1. Is my pcb destroyed now?
2. Am I using the wrong wiring?

Any help would be great.

[Mholt215]

So I bought a wired controller with the idea that I'd stuff its guts into my sf anniversary stick. I've never modded a controller before but I was excited at the prospect of having my stick work with my 360.
The current state of things now is that I tried attaching wires to the front of the card, only to have one of the copper(?) "pads" that I exposed pull off the board. Frustrated, I did some more research on the shoryuken forums and landed finally on this thread. I was then excited at the prospect of using the diagrams provided here and soldering to the contacts on the back of the board. After having some success, I then pulled two more "pads" off the board.
For wiring I'm pulling apart CAT-6 cable I got from work.

I guess my questions are:
1. Is my pcb destroyed now?
2. Am I using the wrong wiring?

Any help would be great.

What wattage soldering iron are you using and what tip?? Too hot and you will pull pads off of the board... you want around a 15w or 30w for this job.

[RDC]

If the wire you're using is that solid core stuff that isn't any good for what you're trying to do as it's putting a lot of stress on the solder joint after you've made it. That's also why after making a successful solder joint ya should make sure the wire stays in place with a bit of hot glue. You're much better off using a 28awg or 30awg wire for soldering to those TP spots also.

The board isn't ruined, but going by what you've already described both it and you are probably in no shape to get it into a functional state. If ya end up messing something up most times you're the last person that should try and repair it.


Sent ya a PM as well.

[jerbi]

So I bought a wired controller with the idea that I'd stuff its guts into my sf anniversary stick. I've never modded a controller before but I was excited at the prospect of having my stick work with my 360.
The current state of things now is that I tried attaching wires to the front of the card, only to have one of the copper(?) "pads" that I exposed pull off the board. Frustrated, I did some more research on the shoryuken forums and landed finally on this thread. I was then excited at the prospect of using the diagrams provided here and soldering to the contacts on the back of the board. After having some success, I then pulled two more "pads" off the board.
For wiring I'm pulling apart CAT-6 cable I got from work.

I guess my questions are:
1. Is my pcb destroyed now?
2. Am I using the wrong wiring?

Any help would be great.

It's a 30 watt iron.

If the wire you're using is that solid core stuff that isn't any good for what you're trying to do as it's putting a lot of stress on the solder joint after you've made it. That's also why after making a successful solder joint ya should make sure the wire stays in place with a bit of hot glue. You're much better off using a 28awg or 30awg wire for soldering to those TP spots also.

The board isn't ruined, but going by what you've already described both it and you are probably in no shape to get it into a functional state. If ya end up messing something up most times you're the last person that should try and repair it.
Sent ya a PM as well.

Out of curiosity, how do you repair the pads?

[RDC]

How it would have to be repaired would depend on how it was damaged. Just soldering the wire to a different spot may be all ya really need to do since you're making an Arcade stick, but I'd have to see the damage to determine exactly what should be done about it.