PS3 Controller Versions and TP Spots, DualShock 3 and Six-Axis Options

[DesireX69]

Well i figured out why the X button doesnt work on that Menu for some reason i gotta hold the Pushbutton down and it will let me select shutdown options and press X im thinking i got solder on something else. will later open it back up and improve my job. Though im a bit afraid to try to improve the solder cause it was not easy getting it to stick in that tiny ass spot lol. though solder the COM line was easy.

[DesireX69]

Ok so i opened it up and noticed the switch was wired wrong... so i corrected that and secured the wires so if i drop it would not break on me lol


After doing that and putting it all back together Every button works no glitches or problems O and Switch work. before only Switch did. all buttons
work in the Shutdown menu unlike before it did not. so im happy it all works
So now i got a perfectly working controller with working mods.
Im done modding it for now though. Happy modding people!

[RDC]

Thanks RDC for putting this thread together.

...My question is, can I cover the entire soldered area with a layer of non-conductive epoxy? Granted that I ensure the solder points do not touch each other?

Technically you could, though you're much better off using hot glue for that versus some kind of epoxy. If you'd ever have to take it back apart, or a wire still worked it's way loose after gluing it up with epoxy, you'd have an incredible mess to try and repair that and end up just doing more damage digging that stuff off the board. You also do not want to glue right on top of your solder joint unless you're planning to stick the board in some kind of harsh environment, try and glue back from it just a bit so you still have access to the joint if needed.

[datakiller]

Hello,
Really dont know what to say, thank you first of all about this thread and for all the information you provide.


i have been searching this for a while, i want to create an arcade stick for my ps3, and i have MSU_VX5_0.06, and really don't know how to start.


tell me please, where do i have to put resistance and with which button??

how much resistance i have to get?

thanks for the reply.

This post has been edited by datakiller: Aug 6 2012, 12:07 PM

[RDC]

Welcome.

The PS3 controller isn't like other controllers, and it can't be added to some existing arcade stick layout or another controller without doing some more work, so make sure this is going to be a PS3 only stick and that none of the switches in it are already wired together in any way. If you're making one from the ground up then you're good to go. You'll be able to wire up the COM lines with only 1 wire on the board for each one, and then just jumper around to the other buttons you need, instead of 1 COM wire for each button run back to the board (there's no room for that anyway) but they don't all share the same COM line. All of that info is in this thread also.

You can use any value from 2k to 10k really, though I'd just go with 10k as they are easier to get here and there. You will only need 2 of them for this.

On that VX5 there you can install the first Resistor from TP10 to TP17, then the other one from TP10 to TP18, and that will take care of the Pull-Ups that were on the Daughter board, so it can be tossed.

I don't recommend it for additional buttons and such, but since you're building an arcade stick from the controller, the best way to solder up all of the wires to where you need is to use the existing connection where the Daughter board mated up to the controller board, all of those black rectangle looking spots on the top of the board. You'll need to carefully scrape off that carbon coating and expose the copper, then tin it up with some new solder and then you can use those spots to solder up your wires. They're still small, and I'd use a 30awg size wire, but they're far easier to solder to than trying to prep and solder to the Vias on the board.

[datakiller]

Hello,

Really thanks for the reply, you have already answered all my questions without even asking them.

i'll do what you have suggested, you're right, its the best way, i only need one last confirmation, this picture is about the diagram for an earlier version of the DS3, is the number's same for my DS version?





i'm talking about the numbers 1 to 20, i have checked, and found that the 20 is also the R2 and 1 is L2. !

need your confirmation before starting


Thank you.

This post has been edited by datakiller: Aug 6 2012, 05:19 PM

[RDC]

The pinout for those connections is in the TP spots VX3 section, as that's when they started using it. You should have a read thru that whole post, as I really only cover major changed between versions, instead of making up a whole bunch of kind of useless pics and such for every single version since a lot of it is the same from one to the next. The layout hasn't changed since then and is the same for the VX4, VX5 and Asuka boards. It's also the same order as the older version there, they're just staggered versus the inline layout of the older type, but it's still the same 1st pad is L2 and the 20th pad is R2 layout.

[datakiller]

Really thanks, i'll start this today, and post the result.

[datakiller]

i'm back, last noob question about the GRD.

i'll use one ground for the joystick, another one for the buttons, can i use a third one for select start and ps button? or two grounds are correct?

[RDC]

The PS3 controllers do not use Ground for any of the buttons.

COM1 - D-pad, L1 and L2
COM2 - X, O, [ ], /\, R1 and R2
COM3 - Select, Start, L3 and R3
PS (Home) uses V as the other line for that button.

[datakiller]

Thank you, i was out of line.

[IAmMcLovin12345]

hey,

i bought a couple controller off ebay. claiming that they where genuine sony controllers

but i havnt seen this motherboard before :S and the daughter board is a solid board and not like the pictures ive seen :S

have i bought some knock offs or what?

heres a pik:



thanks

[RDC]

Official Sony controllers don't have their leads bent over on thru hole parts, like the Sticks there, or leave some of the joints unsoldered. They may change revisions more times than the wind blows, but at least they build them right, or have so far anyway. You'll find that kind of 'quality' on 3rd party and knockoff junk for sure though.

[IAmMcLovin12345]

Can anyone confirm this is correct?



also can someone point me to where the tp point is for Triangle?

Thank you

[RDC]

That's an MSU_V3.5X and the TP spots are listed on the first page of this thread.

You have [ ] (TP30) and X (TP31) correct.

If that orange dot is supposed to be O it's incorrect. O is TP32, which is right next to TP33, which is for the /\ button. All of those TP spots are right there next to the 2 you already have marked. You can follow the line from the TP33, TP32, TP35, TP34 marking right to them. TP33, TP32 are in the top of that little group of 4 there, while TP35, TP34 are on the bottom.

CODE

     []
  X   /\  O
       35 34

Remember that TP18 is the Common connection for those buttons, which is to the right of the [ ] in your pic there in the row of 3 TP spots, TP25, TP18, TP57.