Broken Sync Button (internally) - How Can I Repair/replace? Options

[reddragon105]

So I just got Guitar Hero 3 with a wireless guitar and went to connect it, only to find out my sync button is broken. I've got a wireless controller, but it's connected via a play and charge kit which syncs it up for me. But obviously I can't do that with the guitar.

I removed the faceplate and pressed the button on the motherboard directly - still doesn't work. It doesn't appear to be physically broken (it still clicks), it's just not having any effect!

What could be the problem? Is there any way I could fix it? I've got a few broken (3RL) motherboards - would it be possible to replace the sync button with one from one of those?

[Wilhelm_I]

So I just got Guitar Hero 3 with a wireless guitar and went to connect it, only to find out my sync button is broken. I've got a wireless controller, but it's connected via a play and charge kit which syncs it up for me. But obviously I can't do that with the guitar.

I removed the faceplate and pressed the button on the motherboard directly - still doesn't work. It doesn't appear to be physically broken (it still clicks), it's just not having any effect!

What could be the problem? Is there any way I could fix it? I've got a few broken (3RL) motherboards - would it be possible to replace the sync button with one from one of those?

Just desolder one of these and replace yours with it, this will fix it...

[RDC]

Check that switch before replacing it, since lifting the board puts stress on the BGA joints that you definitely don't want. 9 out of 10 times if those things still 'click' they're good and sometimes still are when they don't. You can ohm out the thing from the top of the board (the contacts on top of the button) and see if it's still good or not when ya press it.

If it is still good then it could be R5V2 (10k) R5V3 (10k) or FB5G1 that are bad.

I'd also try another RF board as the problem may be there and it's an easy swap if ya have another one handy.

If it's NOT the RF board, listed components or the switch then it's the Southbridge, since that line runs right to it.

[reddragon105]

Thank you, RDC, just the sort of comprehensive reply I was hoping for! While I'm hoping it will be a simple case of 'solder-off, solder-on', it's good to have a list of all the possible possible causes.

I'll multimeter it and try a different RF board.

[DarkSabre_X]

i took a search thru the forums but i could not find any tips on replacing the sync button. i melted mine heatgunning. don't have a rrod 360 replacement. any tips on what i could use in it's place. will the 360 even turn on with the button desoldered?

[HackerSupreme]

Yes it will turn on desoldered. You could get a radioshack switch or something, but it wouldn't fit the hole of the stock sync switch.

[DarkSabre_X]

Thank you for the quick reply. at this point i'm not worried about it fitting the old sync button. any specifics to the switch i'll need? or just any old switch?

This post has been edited by DarkSabre_X: Jul 21 2008, 07:43 PM

[hippodude100]

Desoldering isn't that easy because you need a solder gun with a high wattage since the ground will act as a heatsink.
I don't have that solder gun so I used a little burner to make creme brullee
heat it up and pull it of.

[RDC]

It's a 6 x 6 x 5.85mm Right Angle Tact switch.

An exact replacement from Mouser is the 688-SKHHLU (Mfg Part # is SKHHLUA010) Other online places would have the same type part as well.

You can technically use the shoulder button from any 360 controller, but you'll have to add something between it's actuator and the part of the button on the faceplate that hits it as it's a little on the short side.

As far as using any switch goes though, as long as it's a momentary type just about anything can be used really.