Picaxe Rapid Fire For Xbox 360, Installing a Picaxe chip for trigger rapid fire Options

[Amatuer Modder]

Ok, here it is. The Picaxe Rapidfire Tutorial.................. Ok a little disclaimer.....Rumor has it if you get enough complaints you can get booted from Xbox Live for using a rapidfire controller. I have no idea why. I am gonna leave the LED, Program Port and button placement upto you since everyone has a preference, although I will post some pic showing my placement. Last but least credit where credit is do.....Bigmacattack and Vertinago are the 2 that have helped out the most
so this tut wouldn't be possible without them, thanks again guys!


Parts List:
1 Picaxe 8M chip
1 serial or usb program cable (both are available from "Sparkfun.com")

(Part numbers are Radio Shack numbers)
Torx T-8 security driver
Solderin Iron -part #64-2051(15 watt works best)
Solder -part #64-017E
30ga wire -part #278-501 = red (totally upto you on wire I used some old network cable
part #278-502 = white and some 4 conductor telephone wire since you can color
part #278-503 = blue code everything and make it alittle easier but it doesn't
Tact switch -part # 275-003 bend as easy)
Stereo jack -part # 274-0249
8 pin IC socket -part # 276-1995
Assorted LEDs -part #

Resistors
330 ohm -5pack part #271-1315
1k - 5pack part #271- 1321 (All of them are $1 each)
10k - 5pack part #271-1335
22k - 5pack part #271-1339
100k - 5pack part #271-1347

(a 1.8k is needed if you have the matrix controller and since Radio shack doesn't sell it in any other way then in a 500pack but it does have all the resistors needed part-# 271-312 at $13 you'll also need a transistor if you have the matrix -----transistors - part #276-1617)



Ok 1st step is taking your socket and flipping it upside down you want the notch towards the top
with it upside down pin 8 will be the top left pin, 7 will be the one below 8 and so on and pin 1 will be the top right pin, pin 2 will be below that one and so on...... pay close attention to which pin is which. Best thing to also do is tin all of the pins on the socket.

2nd step:
You want to get a 1k , 22k and a 330 ohm resistor. then cut one end of each so it's just alittle shorter then the pin on the socket. Then solder the 1k to pin 4 , then the 22k to pin 2 and then
the 330 ohm to pin 6. (seePic1)

3rd step:
Carefully bend the 1k and 330ohm resistor down towards the middle with the ends going towards the top of the chip. Then bend the 22k to the outside and the end towards the bottom. (see Pic2)

4th step:
You want to bend the ends of the 1k and 330ohm up (same direction as the pins on the socket see pic3)Now take a 10k and bend one end like was done with the 1k and 330. (seePic3)
Now is when some creative bending comes into play......the 10k is soldered to the 1k and then over and around to pin 8 on the socket (refer back to pic 3).

5th step:
Once everything is soldered you want to snip down everything (seePic4)

6th step:
Ok take another 10k and bend on end then solder to the 22k (seePic5) then wrap the other end around the socket and solder to the other 10k going to pin 8 (see Pic6)
(in pic 5 you can see I put a dab of hot glue on the 1k and 300 ohm to hold everything in place to help from something making contact to something it shouldn't be.)

7th step:
The wiring is upto you but we'll use the colors I used to help things along , also to make sure you've got enough wire to work with cut them about 6-7 inches long it might see too long but when you start winding up, around and through things it helps.So you want 3 wires to goto ground (seePic7) I used brown,black and green/white, twisted them together and tinned them then cut them down. Then you need 2 wires for power, I used red and blue twisted and tinned them also. Just for easier soldering (if you don't allready know) is to tin the wires as you go. The pictures show what colors I used for what....

8th step:
Ok solder the 2 wires(blue and red) to pin1 and a wire(blue/white) to the 1k and 100k that was soldered togeher earlier (see Pic8)

9th step:
Solder the 3 wires used for ground (black,brown,green/white) to pin8 (seePic9)

10th step:
Then solder a wire(green) to the 330ohm (see Pic10)

11th step:
Another wire(orange/white) to pin 7 (see Pic11)

12th step:
Another wire(brown/white) to the 22k that was soldered to pin 2 earlier (seePic12 )

13th step:
Then another wire(yellow) to pin 3 (seePic13)

14th step:
Ok here's where you decide on dual trigger or single trigger???
If you're going with a single then you can either bend over pin 5 (seePic14)
or simply snip off pin 5?? But if you want dual just solder a wire(orange) to pin 5.(seePic15)

15th step:
Ok this is the tricky part. But unless you used a color coded wire setup you might want to mark the wires with a piece of masking tape and write what each wire goes to before you do this step. Use some hot glue to cover the solder joints and to hold the wires so the don't break off easily. The trick is to wet your fingers and mold the glue around everything keeping the whole thing as small as possible (seePic16) and (Pic17) or else you'll run into problems if you want to keep your rumble motors. If it's too big it won't fit anywhere besides where the motors go. Where ya want it to go is the same spot console customs shows in their tut.


Step 16 is for matrix controller only:
Ok you need a transistor and a 1.8k resistor. The 1.8k resistor gets soldered to the center post(base) on the transistor. what ya wanna do is cut down one end of the 1.8k to about the same length as the ones for the IC socket then center leg of the transistor should be the same length.
Solder the two together, then you want to trim it down to the same length as the other legs. Then solder the 1.8k leg to the bottom of the trigger pot and the collector to the top of the pot and the ground for the chip gets soldered to the emmiter leg. (seePic18)



OK...........I'd suggest taking a break if you haven't allready......

Now like I said in the beginning button,LED and program port is all upto you.....But I'll now goto where and what all the wires goto.

Power and ground:
see Pic19 for Matrix controller and Pic20 for the CG controller

Trigger wire:
The wire from pin 3 goes to the center post of the right trigger pot (refer to power and ground pics)
(Dual: the wire from pin 5 goes t the center post of the left trigger pot)

LED:
One of the wires soldered to pin 8 goes to the negetive leg of the LED (shorter leg)
Then the wire that was soldered to the 330ohm goes to the positive leg of the LED (longer leg)


Switch/push button:
The wire from the 1k that goes to pin 4 goes to one side
One of the wires from pin 1 goes to the other
(if you're using the tact switch each side of the switch has a neg and pos)

Program port:
Ok if you're using the stereo jacks I listed then when your holding it upside down with the one leg to the right then the one to the left goes to one of the wires from pin 8
The one in the middle the wire from pin2 and the one sticking out the right side gets the wire from pin 7 (The picaxe manual explains the programming port wiring in a schematic)


Picaxe Programming Editor Software

Ok now I have code for a 3mode rapid fire for The CG and Matrix controllers:

CG controller:
Setfreq m8
rapidoff:
Low 1
do
if pin3 = 1 then pause1
loop while pin3 = 0
goto rapidoff
pause1:
pause 1000
goto rapidon
rapidon:
Low 1
Pause 300
High 1
Readadc 4,b0
If b0 > 125 then Rapidfire1
If pin3 = 1 then pause2
goto rapidon
Rapidfire1:
Do
High 1
Low 4
Pause 180
High 4
Low 1
Pause 175
b0=b0 and %00000000
Let dirs=b0
Readadc 4, b0
Loop while b0 > 125
goto rapidon
pause2:
pause 1000
goto rapidon2
rapidon2:
Low 1
Pause 200
High 1
Readadc 4,b0
If b0 > 125 then Rapidfire2
If pin3 = 1 then pause3
goto rapidon2
Rapidfire2:
Do
High 1
Low 4
Pause 150
High 4
Low 1
Pause 145
b0=b0 and %00000000
Let dirs=b0
Readadc 4, b0
Loop while b0 > 125
goto rapidon2
pause3:
pause 1000
goto rapidon3
rapidon3:
Low 1
Pause 100
High 1
Readadc 4,b0
If b0 > 125 then Rapidfire3
If pin3 = 1 then pause4
goto rapidon3
pause4:
pause 1000
goto rapidoff
Rapidfire3:
Do
High 1
Low 4
Pause 100
High 4
Low 1
Pause 95
b0=b0 and %00000000
Let dirs=b0
Readadc 4, b0
Loop while b0 > 125
goto rapidon3

END



Matrix:
Setfreq m8
rapidoff:
Low 1
do
if pin3 = 1 then pause1
loop while pin3 = 0
goto rapidoff
pause1:
pause 1000
goto rapidon
rapidon:
Low 1
Pause 300
High 1
Readadc 4,b0
If b0 < 30 then Rapidfire1
If pin3 = 1 then pause2
goto rapidon
Rapidfire1:
Do
High 1
Low 4
Pause 180
High 4
Low 1
Pause 175
b0=b0 and %00000000
Let dirs=b0
Readadc 4, b0
Loop while b0 < 30
goto rapidon
pause2:
pause 1000
goto rapidon2
rapidon2:
Low 1
Pause 200
High 1
Readadc 4,b0
If b0 < 30 then Rapidfire2
If pin3 = 1 then pause3
goto rapidon2
Rapidfire2:
Do
High 1
Low 4
Pause 130
High 4
Low 1
Pause 125
b0=b0 and %00000000
Let dirs=b0
Readadc 4, b0
Loop while b0 < 30
goto rapidon2
pause3:
pause 1000
goto rapidon3
rapidon3:
Low 1
Pause 100
High 1
Readadc 4,b0
If b0 < 30 then Rapidfire3
If pin3 = 1 then pause4
goto rapidon3
pause4:
pause 1000
goto rapidoff
Rapidfire3:
Do
High 1
Low 4
Pause 75
High 4
Low 1
Pause 70
b0=b0 and %00000000
Let dirs=b0
Readadc 4, b0
Loop while b0 < 30
goto rapidon3

END


So I hope this has worked for ya, I'll be watching for any questions that ya post and I'm sure Vertagino and Bigmacattack will be watching also and if I can't help hopefully they or someone can?

[Protolisk]

Is there anyway you can embed those photos cause its annoying having to click for all the steps. Also is this the readac ver? And whats the 330ohm for I didn't fully read it but Verts instructions on the readac ver didn't have a 330.

[Amatuer Modder]

Is there anyway you can embed those photos cause its annoying having to click for all the steps. Also is this the readac ver? And whats the 330ohm for I didn't fully read it but Verts instructions on the readac ver didn't have a 330.

I tried embedding but I couldn't get it to work...... the 330 is for the LED and yes it is the readadc version
Vert also said something about a tie down or tie up resistor but I didn't include it because everything works fine without it. He also said it was more of an insurance policy to gaurd against any false readings.


Also the part # for the assortment of LED's is #276-1622

This post has been edited by Amatuer Modder: Jun 17 2008, 11:10 AM

[Amatuer Modder]

Ok I ned to apologize to for the mis-spelled names it's "Vertigonix" not "Vertagino"......and "Biggmacattack" with 2 "G's" not one ..........sorry guys!



This post has been edited by Amatuer Modder: Jun 17 2008, 09:42 PM

[biggmacattack]

Ok I ned to apologize to for the mis-spelled names it's "Vertigonix" not "Vertagino"......and "Biggmacattack" with 2 "G's" not one ..........sorry guys!

Nice job AM. Kudo's to you. Someone needed to do this.

Thanks!

[Protolisk]

I tried embedding but I couldn't get it to work...... the 330 is for the LED and yes it is the readadc version
Vert also said something about a tie down or tie up resistor but I didn't include it because everything works fine without it. He also said it was more of an insurance policy to gaurd against any false readings.
Also the part # for the assortment of LED's is #276-1622

Oh ok is this the post 179# version or is this a better ver?

[Amatuer Modder]

Oh ok is this the post 179# version or is this a better ver?

The code is a new version....it's actually loosely based on Verts on/off but I don't remember from what post. This one lets you have the three different codes and the ability to turn off the chip.

[Retman]

I'd love to see some pictures.

Ok, here it is. The Picaxe Rapidfire Tutorial.................. Ok a little disclaimer.....Rumor has it if you get enough complaints you can get booted from Xbox Live for using a rapidfire controller. I have no idea why.

because it is cheating

This post has been edited by Retman: Jun 18 2008, 11:39 AM

[Protolisk]

The code is a new version....it's actually loosely based on Verts on/off but I don't remember from what post. This one lets you have the three different codes and the ability to turn off the chip.

Cool I think I'll make this version then.

I'd love to see some pictures.
because it is cheating

Nobody respond to any of these posts because if we do it will end up with this thread locked because there'll be too much flaming. So from now on ignore these type of posts on this thread.

Also I think you should explain what the mod does eg. Is it using the triggers?, can you turn it off? Whats the LED for? things like that so people know exactly what they're doing.

This post has been edited by Protolisk: Jun 18 2008, 01:43 PM

[Amatuer Modder]

Also I think you should explain what the mod does eg. Is it using the triggers?, can you turn it off? Whats the LED for? things like that so people know exactly what they're doing.

It does use the triggers , you can turn it off with the use of program code and a simple button, the led is used to indicate when the chip is on and which code is being used.

[Amatuer Modder]

Ok I have some pics of button and jack placement. Since I did the 555 timer mod I had the big button and pot mounted so since I swapped out the 555 for the picaxe I reused the button instead of a tact switch. I have just ordered a couple new controller shells and some tact switches so I'll be changing some things around.

This pic is of my "test dummy" controller. The program jack has to have the corners rounded a bit to fit but you can also get the hole perfect if you look for the little circle on the inside of the controller left over from the molding process. Once I had the jack in a put in the led.

This pic is of the button I use to turn on and off the chip, it's also used to switch through the codes. Next to the button is the old pot from the 555 mod.

This last pic is of my other controller that I did after the blue one and discovered that the jack would fit if I took out the old pot.

[Protolisk]

Cool nice pics. So do we need a toggle switch or can it be like a tac switch which only acticvates when you push down? Cause tac switches are a lot smaller.

[Amatuer Modder]

Cool nice pics. So do we need a toggle switch or can it be like a tac switch which only acticvates when you push down? Cause tac switches are a lot smaller.

You can use the tact switch, the way the code is written there is an off mode. So the tact switch sends a pulse to the chip then in turn switches through the codes. And since it's smaller it'll fit just about anywhere.
Here is a couple of pics of one place I thought of, you have trim some plastic and get the hole centered just right but it'll fit. Tact 1, Tact 2

[Protolisk]

Thats really cool thx.

so the diff between this and post 179# is that you can use a tact switch but is that all?

[Amatuer Modder]

Thats really cool thx.

so the diff between this and post 179# is that you can use a tact switch but is that all?

I'm not sure what ya mean but I'm gonna take a stab at it. Ok my post is for something more along the lines of the 3 mode rapidfire from youtube. Vert came up with a code to use along with an existing controller button. Then we kind of ran with the whole button idea. So it's pretty much the same just the code is different. My code is setup for a single trigger, three different rates of fire and an off. The code can be modified to do the same thing but with dual triggers. Step 14 in my tut is about the dual or single setup.
If you want a dual setup I can modify the code for ya. Just let me know what controller it's for?