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> Replaced Trigger Pot, Left Thumbstick Up Down Unresponsive?
NineLime
post Jun 21 2009, 03:51 PM
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How do I fix this? The POT leads are giving voltage I dont understand...also if i put my finger on the points to the left and up (above r12/r20) it walks forward... is this fixable

This post has been edited by NineLime: Jun 21 2009, 03:55 PM
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RDC
post Jun 21 2009, 07:48 PM
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Depends on what ya did to it, and ya need to see what the voltage on the center lead is and how far it makes it to the IC. If it's not moving at all then that line should be broken somewhere. If the voltage or ground sides of the POT were messed up it would move like it was stuck in one direction.
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NineLime
post Jun 22 2009, 04:30 AM
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It's a CG, between the middle and both otuside parts of the pot it says .7v, between the two outside i get 1.5. (using the voltage tester).

To the IC I get 1.5-1.6 volts, across the board itself its giving a connection... but at the via near tp7 when i test it it goes to 1.7-1.8 for a split second and to zero... what do you think rdc?
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NineLime
post Jun 22 2009, 04:44 AM
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When the right pins of the first two things below "C70/R11" are touched, the xbox takes a command as up or down. The only other thing is I might have heated the board a bit near the LT contacts trying to desolder it like 4 times to get a new one on haha. This is a board from this kid that I gave my other modded one, so I'm trying to fix it for my own.
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RDC
post Jun 22 2009, 04:08 PM
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R12 and R20 have squirt to do with the LSY line, and puitting yer fingers all over the board isn't exactly the best way to tell what's going on with it because you're maing connections where they're not supposed to be doing that, so it can cause all sort of things to happen.

There should be ~0.75v on the LSY pin of the IC, the same as what's on the Wiper of the POT, measured from Ground. If there's is 1.5v on the LSY pin of the IC then there should be 1.5v on the Wiper, so if that's how it's really measuring then something isn't right there.


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NineLime
post Jun 23 2009, 03:52 AM
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Hey RDC thank you for addressing my problem about the left stick not working, the problem is between the Y via near tp7 and the middle analog point, I connected them with a wire and up/down works again, is this safe to go ahead and solder up?


I'm not sure why this would happen, but I did heat up the board in that area quite a bit trying to get a new LT POT on there.
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NineLime
post Jun 23 2009, 07:44 AM
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Works fine... I had to get the wire to where it was gonna work.. and then hot glue it in place, because soldering was just making it worse and not working, but i soldered the other end.

Now the headset just stays on all the time in game...any ideas?
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RDC
post Jun 23 2009, 10:11 AM
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If the controller is acting like a Headset is plugged up when it's not it could be a couple of things. The jack there could be worn out and not working correctly, it has a switch inside of it that makes contact when nothing is plugged in so the controller 'knows' there's no headset plugged in. It could also be an issue on that line that runs to the switch in the connector, hard to tell without checking a few things.

See if it works fine with a Headset plugged in, if it does and ya have another headset connector and can get it swapped without causing any damage try that first.
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NineLime
post Jun 24 2009, 05:17 AM
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The headset works, but it gives other people static and transmits sound actively as soon as the first sound is made and just stays on. I have a regular headset, but I usually use an adapter I made for any mic.

I use a cable that came with a digital camera, a male 2.5mm to male RCA cable connected to a RCA female to 3.5mm female adapter setup, hooked to a computer mic, this works great on both except this controller does not deactivate, even if I press the mute switch on the microsoft one.

I could take the headset jack off of that other board that I had trouble with a while back with the solder pads a while ago, but Id rather access whats wrong, I dont actually use the headset part just the mic, so I'm thinking its the headset speaker positive line leaking into the mic line, because a direct connection from one of those will give you a nasty high pitched sound. Do you know of the layout of the pins?
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RDC
post Jun 24 2009, 10:25 AM
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The pinout of the Headset connector is on the forums here, in a couple of threads, if Google can't find it then ya didn't look. wink.gif

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NineLime
post Jun 25 2009, 02:23 AM
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Yeah, so i replaced the jack, still the problem, wired a mic right to it after taking off the second jack
...and even when i unplug the mic it still makes this strange sound (i checked it by previewing a voice message) its like vrvrvrvrvrvr thats the only way i can really explain it its like a whining noise... I think there might be something on the board causing this?
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RDC
post Jun 25 2009, 11:17 AM
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There isn't much to those lines before they run into the MCU. Ya also can't check them straight thru because they run thru coupling capacitors.

Mic - Pin 36 on MCU

Speaker - Pin 34 on MCU

Mic Line check C15 and C17, there is also an unmarked Resistor under C17 that is 3.3k

Speaker line check C19, R24 (15k), R23 (~100k) and C56



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NineLime
post Aug 3 2009, 04:10 AM
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"Speaker line check C19, R24 (15k), R23 (~100k) and C56"

My R24 is 48-50k not 15, r23 is fine,
resistor under c17 is 3.3k


how could i possibly check this to make the mic work? I know thats "noob" to ask, but when you say i cant check them straight through because they go through coupling capacitors, i still dont know how to check if somethings interfering with the circuit...

but if this helps, the previous owner of this board tried to do the 2 wire mod to this CG, and covered the LED completely and made a mess around it kinda melting the coating on the board a bit, is there something to check here?

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RDC
post Aug 3 2009, 05:42 AM
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Unplug the headset and check, R15 is 15k, it's around 47k if ya leave a headset plugged in, which isn't how ya should be checking it, and if it is unplugged reading 50k then that's a problem.

Unless ya plan to replace the coupling caps and clean up the previous mess, which should have been the first place ya started even though it probably isn't going to do anything, and if everything I've said to check is good then ya should call it quits on this and chalk it up as a learning experience, because the IC is all that's left.
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NineLime
post Aug 3 2009, 11:24 PM
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R15 unplugged headset gives me 44.1k, plugged in gives me 47.3. What is the value of "R90" it looks like it isnt there at all, could this cause the problem?
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