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> Latest Version Of Wireless Controller, CG2, Common Ground v2
floater4444
post Mar 22 2011, 02:58 AM
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Could you use the vias for X,B,A,Y underneath?
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floater4444
post Mar 22 2011, 04:21 AM
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QUOTE(floater4444 @ Mar 22 2011, 02:58 AM) *

Could you use the vias for X,B,A,Y underneath?
Any Via? top or bottom?
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RDC
post Mar 22 2011, 04:45 AM
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You have to, unless you want to solder to the actual button pad contact or the MCU leads.
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3MT3
post May 11 2011, 10:10 PM
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Hi y'all!
just came across my first cg2 board. was wondering if any one has come up with a better power source uhh.gif
I'm building a 555 RF. I seen the OptoCoupler post, but less is more...
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RDC
post May 12 2011, 03:15 PM
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Your choice to use a 555 and believe less is more is about bass ackwards. A PIC setup might need 1 or 2 support components at most, while a 555 needs more than twice as many, and the modes/options a PIC can do versus what a 555 is capable of is no contest. Plenty of members around here have made open source R/F codes and have everything explained in those threads, but I digress..

The CG2 has no suitable switched power source for a 555, PIC, LEDs etc., so less is less in this case. Using the OC to make one is the best option available on this, or any version of, controller so you end up with a good switched power source.
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3MT3
post May 12 2011, 04:23 PM
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so i see... By less is more i meant more room but i guess after reading a lill more size aint a big deal ether. Can i adjust the pic mod on the fly with a pot like the 555 or is it all code? (never tried to make one) would the dc-dc
work well with a 555? And is it worth the time and effort learning how to build one?


biggrin.gif Thank you for all your hard work by the way with all your pics and trace work have helped me out a lot in the last 3 years! biggrin.gif
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RDC
post May 12 2011, 04:36 PM
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Welcome.

A PIC and OC would still take up less room than a 555, unless you built it with mostly SMT components.

Making up a DC-DC converter would only be useful if you needed a regulated 3.3v or more. The OC method is the cheapest and easiest way to get you a switched voltage source for powering most things.

Some PIC codes will let you change speeds, just depends on how it was coded, or if you get into the coding side of it you can make it work however you want, more than a few threads on them in the Pinned Topics.
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3MT3
post May 12 2011, 04:41 PM
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sweet! whell looks like i got a lot of reading to do lol and thinx again!!!!
RDC YOUR THE SHIT!!!
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Jimz360
post May 21 2011, 04:20 PM
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My friends got this exact controller, he brought an XCM controller case with L.E.D kit but i cant find the correct solder points, every PCB i find online is slightly different but this ones the same, could someone help me find the correct solder points? Theres 3 wires a vcc,gnd and a K (does the K mean switched?) I told my mate i'd have it done in no time but have been pulling my hair out! thanks for any help,
Jim
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RDC
post May 21 2011, 07:01 PM
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VCC goes to any battery powered spot. TP3 or TP5 will do.

GND is Ground. TP2 or TP22

K is the switched source to turn on/off the LEDs with the controller. That spot is the Analog Voltage line, TP8, or any of the corresponding leads on the POTs of the Triggers.
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GuiltyFan
post Aug 1 2011, 04:34 PM
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Hi all.
I need a little help here. i cant seem to find the contacts for RB and LB on the diagram. i am noob and would really appreciate your help.
Also i would like to power my controler using external battery pack(because my old pack shatered tongue.gif ) i have two wires coming out of the battery pack(2xAA) black and red, where would i need to solder that to the board??
Thanks for any help.
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RDC
post Aug 2 2011, 12:06 AM
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LB and RB are Pink and Purple respectively. Not the Pink or Purple with the White dot in the center, those are LSC and RSC.

LB is easy enough to get to right at the solder joint at the LB switch, it sticks out from under the LT assembly and you can solder to it there. RB though, you'll have to either solder to the Via, or desolder the RT assembly so you can solder the wire on there and then cut a little groove in the bottom of the RT assembly so it doesn't pinch the wire.

If you want to wire up an external AA pack, then wire it to the spots that the original AA pack used. J8-1 is + (Red) and J8-2 is - (Black), they are the spots that have the spring connectors on them for the original AA pack. You'd be better off picking up a new AA pack for a few bucks, or a PnC kit for the controller instead fo dealing with that mess, but it'll work.
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GuiltyFan
post Aug 5 2011, 05:41 PM
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Thanks RDC!!

The reason why i need the AA pack is because i decided to turn the controller into arcade stick (it was after the original pack broke) but it all works fine now.
However i still got one question, i dont plan on using LT and RT buttons at all and from other sources i know i need to disable them somehow, the problem is i dont know where to solder the resistors and how to make them not act up during the game.
Thanks again.
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RDC
post Aug 5 2011, 07:38 PM
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The easiest thing you can do with LT/RT if you're not going to use them is just leave the Trigger assemblies on the board, don't mess with them at all and you will not have any problems from them or have to do anything special. You can even solder up new LT/RT buttons later on if you wanted and still leave them on there.

If you need the extra room or need to remove them, then they need to be desoldered from the board and a 10k Resistor put in place of each one so it's kept in the 'off' position. How to do that can be found here - http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=581887 which is for the Wireless Matrix version controller, but for the Triggers it's the same deal for any version controller.
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THR33IN0N3
post Oct 10 2011, 02:02 AM
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Hey Guys, im new to all this but I would like to add abxy buttons to the bottom of my cg2 controller (I also have a cg, if that is better let me know). I plan on using some small tactile buttons. I would also like to use the points on the bottom so that i dont have to cross wire over the top of the board. Can someone please post some pics of were the best placed to solder to? Also, can I connect more that one button gound to one ground point? Thanks for all your help!
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