New Xenon Jtag Exploit Wiring, Diagrams for a different way to wire up the xenon board. Options

[Mad_Gouki]

This is based on the falcon jtag exploit, and instead of the resistors, we are using two diodes (I have been told that 1n914 switching diodes work for this). This is supposed to be a better method than the 3x330 ohm resistors method.

the original quote from the xboxhacker thread

While I agree that the resistors arent the optimum solution, the current >xenon wiring is indeed very safe. (It doesn't use resistors at all). In fact the 2 signals that you are concerned about are already "pulled up" to Vgpu and the SMC can only pull them low for jtag. There is no possibility of overdrive whatsoever, and those parts can be left in with no harm.

To that end, xenon users should also implement the new level shifting scheme too, as it is electrically superior, and uses less parts.
For xenon use:
j2d2.7---------j2d2.4 (jumper wire)
j1f1.3---|<----j2d2.1
j1f1.4---|<----j2d2.2

and my diagram:


and an alternate diagram using actual images of diodes instead of symbols: http://imgur.com/ptWYM.png

the source image is from: http://www.xbox-scene.com/tutorials-xbox360/blaster360.php

So, I will be rewiring my box with this method when my new 30 awg wire arrives in the mail. If I have made an error in the diagram, please let me know so that I may fix it!

[Reznik Akime]

It looks much cleaner, that's for sure. Other than it being electrically inferior, what are the chances the resistor method will burn something up? I've powered on my modified Xenon 12 dozen times with the 330ohm resistors still in it and have yet to see any sort of problem.

[Mad_Gouki]

It looks much cleaner, that's for sure. Other than it being electrically inferior, what are the chances the resistor method will burn something up? I've powered on my modified Xenon 12 dozen times with the 330ohm resistors still in it and have yet to see any sort of problem.

I honestly don't know. If you want to talk to someone more knowledgeable about it, ask Tiros on xh if there is any risk with the resistors.

[Reznik Akime]

I don't have an account there. Should make one though. Either way I'm not all that worried about it. Thanks for making this diagram though, as I have TONS of these diodes and no more resistors. This will save my lazy self from having to drive 30 miles to the nearest Rat Shack to get anymore.

[Mad_Gouki]

and here's a picture of my xenon wired up like in the diagram
Please excuse the shitty soldering, I wanted to make sure that it works

I can confirm that it works.

Good luck!

This post has been edited by Mad_Gouki: Oct 16 2009, 06:14 PM

[Mad_Gouki]

here's a new giant wiring guide for both the new jtag wiring for xenon, and the lpt port for the nand.
click for the large image.


This post has been edited by Mad_Gouki: Oct 17 2009, 07:34 AM

[Reznik Akime]

Thanks again for this. I went ahead and replaced the 330ohm resistors with the diodes anyway out of nothing but boredom. Definitely will be using this in the future for anything else.

[steina]

Hi. I did this mod yesterday on my xenon with dash 7371, using 1N4148 diodes.
While dumping the nand with nandpro i get an error 'Error: 25C reading block 2D2'.
The reading continued after i got the error and I ended up with an image of 16896kb.
I dumped the nand two more times, but always got the same error message.

How do I check that this image is valid?
I don't want to flash and end up with a bricked console.
Any help is apreciated. Thanks.

[red_ring_of_box]

if it is your original nand dump and not flashed with xell then it should open up in degraded with the 1bl key(do not ask for it as it is forbidden to post here, google is your friend) and show files inside the .bin as well. Opening it up in a hex editor and it show © Microsoft Corporation 200X(where X is the copyright date) is a good sign as well of a good dump. Regardless make as many dumps as you can to be sure you have a good one before flashing the nand in the 360 with a new one because on of those dumps may indeed work.(I did around 9 and put them all in folders with the date I extracted them and the order of extraction to keep organized)

Also when you do decide to write back to the nand the SMC information from the last console power on is still in there and will corrupt the nand you just flashed onto the 360. So to fix this unplug your console for like 5-10 minutes to clear any smc data after writing your nand to your 360 then plug it back in and enjoy. I failed to do this and had got a E71 error which I described how to fix in this thread/tut I made a while back, and where I got the fix from:

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=694245

Anyway hope it works out for you steina

This post has been edited by red_ring_of_box: Nov 24 2009, 11:13 PM

[Mr.RedRing]

This is my first time trying the JTAG/Xell hack. I wired up my Xenon using this method and nothing happens. The soldering is fine, not a problem. All wires are inside the holes and not ontop of or resting on the holes. Plugged into my computer, all I get is:

Testing LPT device address:0378
Testing LPT device address:0278
Testing LPT device address:03BC
Could not detect a flash controller!
Can not continue


What's the problem?

[niai]

that has nothing to do with the 3 jtag points it has to do with the ltp (parallel port) not being hooked up right you try using a dioed or trying with/without the resisters

[Mr.RedRing]

that has nothing to do with the 3 jtag points it has to do with the ltp (parallel port) not being hooked up right you try using a dioed or trying with/without the resisters

I am totally redoing my soldering at the moment. Ill let you know how it goes, if it still doesn't work ill take pictures and show them here. I bet it's something stupid I did wrong and im not catching it

I tried with and without the diode that connects to pin 11 on the LPT end. From what im reading, I will need the resistors on as I am trying to dump the Nand and then write Xell/XBReboot back to it.

[huskerman99]

I have done multiple xenon recoveries with the LPT port. However, each one I do, I use an 1888 File from the usual places. I make sure the LDV values are good to go, but each one I have done says type 1 OSIG unknown, which is suppose to mean any drive should work with the system. However, it only seems that hitachi's are working for me. I go into the F/w and flash the key sector, and it works.

I would like to know how to do this on a samsung or benq... is it possible? I manually spoof the key and that does not seem to work (but the same key works with the hitachi's even though OSIG is unknown on the nand dump) I have tried FW tool box... Doesn't work either.
I have googled my eyes out and cannot figure out why it wont work the Benq or sammy. Any ideas? And is it possible to change the OSIG on the nand dump? Link a Tutorial if you know of one. Thanks!!!

[kipper2k]

I like the 3 x 330 ohm resistor wiring, never had a problem with it. Also to write Nand i use 47ohm resistors and not 100ohm, i found 100ohm was too high causing erratic reads.

[prodizo]

Hi

I'm just tryed read a nand and everything look's good but never get a same results.
I did a couple of times but never same the dump's. just only 1-2 row diferent
compare with total com.
any idea what do i wrong?