Dumping A Red Lighter? Options

[ddsdavey]

Ok so i went ahead and wired an E74 (i think) up for jtag/dump but nothing detected,is this because its E74 or should it still at least dump the Nand???
Its just im sure i read somewhere about someone doing this but i cant find anything.

Q: Why would you want to?
A: Just cause!
There ive asked and answered that so please just advice lol!

This post has been edited by ddsdavey: Jan 21 2010, 07:17 PM

[thwack]

You should be able to dump a rlod 360 unless you've got some odd standby power issues.....

[ddsdavey]

I just cant seem to get it to dump???

[ddsdavey]

Ok ive been trying and TRYING but still nothing.Im using a 150w on a 203 xenon.I know,i know but i figured if all im interested in for now is just at least getting the controller aknowledged i can switch off after that and wait til i get a 203 psu happy in the knowledge that everythings up and ready to go.Please help guys its doing my head in! Ive also tried it on 2 seperate pcs with onboard lpt,both fairly old pcs with and without resistors.Anything else,id love the bad news as long as its 100% cause at least if i know for sure its not gonna happen i can stop fiddling about day after DAY!
Cheers.

[thwack]

Are you using the switching diode?

[ddsdavey]

Yes i am,ive resoldered tons of times now.The cable,now the LPT cable is one i got off Ebay.Its a Male to Male and its this one to be exact (ish!)

It isnt single core but its not thick wire at all.
Also because ive got a manufactured cable ive got the resistors going down into the board with the wire/cable trailing from there rather than with the plugs you wire up where your advised to have resistors on the pins with wire/cable trailing to the desired solder point,ive seen guides where this is said to be fine?
Just one more i promise! Am i correct in using pin 18 to gnd or should i use the actual gnd wire i found whilst multimetering said plug? We only have to gnd to one of thos e 2 points right? not both?
Its an 0110 rrod
Im using a 150w psu on a 203w console
Im using a manufactured cable (see image) which is thin but NOT single core
My soldering should be fine,ive done enough of it tbh and ive also redone this soldering at least 3 times now???
Should i use the printer plugs ACTUAL gnd or still pin 18 regardless?
With all these differing variables could anyone draw a conclusion or have i just answered my own question with such a dodgy list!
Before i go out and spend MORE money etc!
As always,cheers

This post has been edited by ddsdavey: Jan 22 2010, 06:19 PM

[TK-101]

I would blame it on the psu. It not providing enough power. How did u get it 2 fit in the xenon socket?
Its not meant to. That's why microsoft changed the plugs on the newer models

[ddsdavey]

You just take out the corresponding peg thats obstructing it in the console psu socket.I know 175w ones can be used quite safely but it does shorten the PSUs lifespen but like i said earlier ill be happy just to get the controller aknowledged and ill be happy to abandon it the until i can get a 203w to do the actual dump process.It has booted to dashboard etc though so surely if i only use it briefly when attempting to get controller recognized it should work,no? The bricks light is orange on standby and i cant start the 360 when attached to LPT (not that that has any relevance just as much info as i can suppose!)
I think its obvious im no expert so id sure appreciate the input of someone who is.
can anyone confirm this would be an issue as the 175s are safe apparently.

This post has been edited by ddsdavey: Jan 22 2010, 07:33 PM

[Martinchris23]

You just take out the corresponding peg thats obstructing it in the console psu socket.I know 175w ones can be used quite safely but it does shorten the PSUs lifespen but like i said earlier ill be happy just to get the controller aknowledged and ill be happy to abandon it the until i can get a 203w to do the actual dump process.It has booted to dashboard etc though so surely if i only use it briefly when attempting to get controller recognized it should work,no? The bricks light is orange on standby and i cant start the 360 when attached to LPT (not that that has any relevance just as much info as i can suppose!)
I think its obvious im no expert so id sure appreciate the input of someone who is.
can anyone confirm this would be an issue as the 175s are safe apparently.

The 5VSB won't even touch the sides so if that's all you have at hand and you don't power it on, you should be fine.

[ddsdavey]

Thanks Martin,as always!
It wasnt a problem but now the psu brick just has red light when plugged into a 203 but fine on my 150w Elite.

[ruley]

How long is the cables that you are using?
should not be longer that 30cm (1 foot)

[Martinchris23]

Thanks Martin,as always!
It wasnt a problem but now the psu brick just has red light when plugged into a 203 but fine on my 150w Elite.

Is it going red immediately after plugging it in, or does it change to any other colour before getting to red?

[ddsdavey]

How long is the cables that you are using?
should not be longer that 30cm (1 foot)

Nope its approx 20cm
One good thing,ive got the soldering to a t now (unless thats the issue lol???) having redone it so many times but this is breaking my bloody heart i tell you!
Any other ideas,tried with or without resistors.
Could it be the lead or is that quite unlikely?

Is it going red immediately after plugging it in, or does it change to any other colour before getting to red?

Hi Martin,no it just goes straight to red now all the time,i think it worked for a while but now its given up lol.I was kinda (naively!) wondering if it was going to red because wires were touching which would have been good news in a sense,at least id have known iwas on the right trck,kinda!
Ill have to grab another PROPER 203w but i still think ill return with the same issue as i did have a 203 and was getting the same non detect results!
Is the Lpt settings ie DMA etc important,i understand the whole SPP thing .Ive heard of people having to set up text virtual printers or similar,do i have to go through all these different methods or should it really be quite straight forward as long as your lengths and points are in check?
I appreciate all the help guys and would love it if you could follow a dude through with this.
Im dyin here people!

This post has been edited by ddsdavey: Jan 23 2010, 12:39 PM

[manpee]

i've been looking on how to do this but i can't find the diagram.. i have seen it before (you just have to google your ass off) but there is a diagram out there that show you how to wire directly to the chip and then you have to supply your own 3.3v...

i have this same problem.
AND FOR ALL YOU WHO THINK YOU KNOW..... YOU REALLY DON'T SO STFU!! unless you have personally had this problem quit trying to boost your posts with random nonsense..

The psu red light is cause by the video chip..try doing a reflow.. it might work.. i had a e74 and a reflow NEVER work... i even put that bitch in the oven.. then finally one day i used the heat gun and left it pointed at the board a little too long..<---after i did that the xbox NEVER turned on and gave me a red psu light every time..

[ddsdavey]

AND FOR ALL YOU WHO THINK YOU KNOW..... YOU REALLY DON'T SO STFU!! unless you have personally had this problem quit trying to boost your posts with random nonsense..

Dude no offence but WHAT ARE YOU ON ABOUT!
Your problem has absolutely nothing to do with mine.
READ THE ENTIRE THREAD OH AND STOP SHOUTING!
Sorry everyone,please carry on,you ARE being helpful.
Oh yeah and the PSU red light has gone now but im getting another red lighter in today which isnt doomed as its only 0102 but more importantly its got a 203w PSU YAY!

This post has been edited by ddsdavey: Jan 24 2010, 10:36 AM