Switched Power Source in Controllers, Use an OptoCoupler Options

[RDC]

Save yourself the trouble of hunting for a good switched voltage source in the controller and use an OctoCoupler to 'make' one. They're fairly cheap, small and will work on any of the versions of controller that are currently out now as well as get you the most voltage you'll be able to without wiring straight up to the batteries and using a switch to manually turn on/off whatever you're powering.

For those of you that aren't aware, an OptoCoupler is like a Transistor (and if you're not aware of what either is a trip to Gooogltown is advised ) but the Base is controlled by an LED inside the device, so it's input is isolated from it's output. It takes a little more to turn it on compared to a Transistor, but there's 1 less Resistor to mess with and it can easily turn on a + or - source from a + source whereas an NPN or PNP Transistor alone cannot.

The typical OC has 4 pins, but they come in all types, so I'm just covering the basics here. Read the DataSheet on the OC that you intend to use and make sure it's Forward Voltage of the Input (LED) is no more than 1.5v~1.6v Max, and it's output (Collector Current) is capable of handling the load you need it too before installing it and then wondering why it doesn't work.

EXAMPLE: If you're wanting to use this to turn some LEDs on/off, lets say 4 of them that each have a current rating of 25mA each, and since 4 x 25 = 100, the OC will need to be able to handle at least 100mA of current, and should be rated a bit more than this to be safe.

The Collector of the OC will go to the B+ line or whatever spot you choose for the power source.

The Emitter of the OC will go to your LEDs, Crapid Fire mod or whatever you need to power.

The Cathode of the OC will go to Ground.

The Anode of the OC will go to a 10ohm or so Resistor (the exact value depends on the OC you choose, same with LEDs, read the DS) and then to the Analog Voltage line of the controller, which is switched on/off with the controller.

The recommended spots for wiring up an OC are shown below.

NOTE: This does NOT get you a nice Regulated power source, only one that's switched on/off with the controller. It will still vary with battery voltage on the Wireless controllers and is not recommended for powering Blue or White LEDs. If you want or need a Regulated 3v or higher source from the controller look into (aka Google it) using a Charge Pump or DC-DC converter.

NOTE 2: There's no real reason to mess with this on a Wired controller since it has a 5v source that comes from the console, though it is on all the time, so if you don't want the LEDs or whatever to run constantly an OC can be installed.

WIRED MATRIX

TP7 - Analog Voltage, 1.6v
TP2 - Ground
TP12 or TP18 - 5v



WIRED CL (Common Line)

TP5 - Analog Voltage, 1.6v
TP100, TP101 or TP102 - Ground
TP28 - 5v



WIRELESS MATRIX and WIRELESS MATRIX2

TP7 - Analog Voltage, 1.6v
TP2 or TP22 - Ground
TP1 - AA and PnC B+



WIRELESS CG (Common Ground)

TP8 - Analog Voltage, 1.5v
TP2 or TP22 - Ground
TP1 - AA and PnC B+



WIRELESS CG2 (Common Ground 2)

TP8 - Analog Voltage, 1.5v
TP2 or TP22 - Ground
TP5 - AA and PnC B+



This post has been edited by RDC: Apr 6 2011, 11:34 AM