I'm sure Sony has the datasheet on it, but if you can get them to let you have it then you really wouldn't need it.
If everything has now been removed and it's still acting up then I'd go over the board a couple more times and look for any solder bridges that might be on there but aren't around where you soldered, as well as any components that may have been knocked off or damaged traces during the entire process.
If the controller worked before then it still should, though electroncs can, do and will up and die on their own sometimes, but when it goes from a working state, to being messed with, and then to not working, it's a 99% guarantee that something you did caused it, intentional or not, but tracking it down without another one to compare it to, a troubleshooting flowchart and a general idea of what you're looking at and how it works as well as the tools to do it makes for an almost impossible job, and if you don't have any of that on hand then it quickly becomes not worth it. It's also difficult for anyone else to try and troubleshoot unless they've seen the exact issue before, and more than one thing going bad can cause the same issues sometimes, so even that's not 100% reliable.
Since your board is the 0.07, what did you solder to for the other wire of the R/F button? It has no TP spot for R1, or whichever one you decided to use, so you would have had to prep a Via and solder to there, and taking a wild stab in the dark about what's wrong with it, I'd start looking around there, though there is nothing to really cause the issue you're having in that area, and then everywhere else your iron was even close to the board.