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> Rgh Slim Question, Artic Silver or No
ABC-King
post Jan 5 2012, 02:34 AM
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ok i got 2 slims here and im gonna rgh one of them tomorrow and i was wondering if i should go ahead and re-do the thermal paste with AS or should i just leave it alone? the only thing i have done is solder the lpt cable and read nand so far. what do you guys think?
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iateshaggy
post Jan 5 2012, 02:53 AM
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its recommended to replace the thermal compound any time you remove the black screws that hold the xclamps.
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Avinitlarge
post Jan 5 2012, 02:56 AM
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Ive never bothered, but LPT.... I could have done a slim RGH from start to finish by the time you have read the nand twice
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ABC-King
post Jan 5 2012, 03:44 AM
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QUOTE(Avinitlarge @ Jan 4 2012, 05:56 PM) *

Ive never bothered, but LPT.... I could have done a slim RGH from start to finish by the time you have read the nand twice

thats great for you and every one else that has a usb reader but i would rather spend the 40 dollars on other things when i have a cable here that will do the job just as well.you know if you put as much efort in helping people as you probly do bashing them you would probly help alot of people.
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GoTeamScotch
post Jan 5 2012, 06:29 AM
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AS is going to have better thermal conductivity than the stock paste without a doubt so if you have some paste to spare for the job then re-do it. It adds up to better cooling and less strain on the chip from thermal expansion over time. You could use the old stuff, yeah, but a big part of whether or not paste will transfer heat to its full potential is reliant on the way you apply it, and ideally you'd want to re-do your pasting procedure whenever the two surfaces come apart from one another. Old caked paste won't fill in the microscopic cracks in the heatsink/chip die like new paste will, thus less surface area to dissipate heat. And there's a much higher chance of having air trapped in between the two surfaces with used paste.
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ABC-King
post Jan 5 2012, 05:32 PM
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thank you goteam thats exactly what i was thinking but just wanted to get a secound opinion pop.gif time to install my coolrunner cool.gif thank you for the help unlike Avinitlarge
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relaxxx
post Jan 5 2012, 08:23 PM
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I would not bother unless the temps were abnormally high. The stress on the board to snap the clamps is not worth 3 degrees. Set the fan speed faster and you're looking at 20-30 degrees improvement in temperature. After that you'll see that a few degrees from new paste is really insignificant. At least do the RGH first and view the temps so you can observe for yourself if it was worthwhile. Plus if something goes wrong you won't be wondering if it was something with the HS or clamps.

This post has been edited by relaxxx: Jan 5 2012, 08:24 PM
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jeffrey1790
post Jan 6 2012, 08:08 PM
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If you take the xclamps off and put new thermal compound on, is it worth it just to do the xclamp fix?
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GoTeamScotch
post Jan 7 2012, 12:18 AM
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QUOTE(jeffrey1790 @ Jan 6 2012, 11:08 AM) *

If you take the xclamps off and put new thermal compound on, is it worth it just to do the xclamp fix?

If you have the supplies then yes, replace the x-clamps with sturdy M5 bolts for a better hold. You can re-use the stock x-clamps and the Xbox will run ok, but probably not for as long as if you did the x-clamp mod. The stock x-clamps work but a big reason as to why Xboxes started failing left and right all those years ago was because the clamps didn't provide proper support to hold the heatsinks in place, which causes movement of the heatsinks and less efficient cooling and then overheating issues like Rrod. Not the only cause of Rrod, but a substantial one.

Bottom line, if you have the ability, do the mod.
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relaxxx
post Jan 7 2012, 02:31 AM
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For the love of Jesus Christ and mother virgin Mary do NOT BOLT the ****ing HS on a good motherboard!!!
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sinclairuser
post Jan 7 2012, 02:43 AM
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like relaxxx said dont do it jaspers and slims should never be bolted they dont need it
as for others i say leave them alone do the glitch if clamps/heatsinks are fine leave them at least for now then if you need to troubleshoot it will be simpler smile.gif
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vb_encryption_vb
post Jan 7 2012, 03:03 AM
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QUOTE(relaxxx @ Jan 6 2012, 08:31 PM) *

For the love of Jesus Christ and mother virgin Mary do NOT BOLT the ****ing HS on a good motherboard!!!



+1



On another note, why are you removing the heatsinks anyways?
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ABC-King
post Jan 7 2012, 05:25 AM
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i wasnt planing on it but i know how crapy the stuff is on phat 360 so i figured that micro junk wouldnt go the extra mile and put some good HS paste on the new 360 slim. but all is good rgh installed and AS applied to HS.
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GoTeamScotch
post Jan 7 2012, 10:17 AM
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Okay hold the phone, why would you not replace the clamps with bolts? I was under the impression this was the commonly method of the community. Is this untrue?
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relaxxx
post Jan 7 2012, 03:06 PM
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QUOTE(GoTeamScotch @ Jan 7 2012, 05:17 AM) *

Okay hold the phone, why would you not replace the clamps with bolts? I was under the impression this was the commonly method of the community. Is this untrue?


It is an unfortunate internet myth that the X-clamp causes the mobo to warp. It does not. It was the steel cage and black screws warping the older consoles but the primary BGA damage of course was from heat. Bolting the GPU "fixed" RROD because it DOES warp the mobo and forces the broken BGA contacts together with pressure. The common practice of M5 bolt + 1 steel washer + 1 nylon washer does not equal the total height of a GPU's BGA + Substrate + Die. The two washers come up about .5mm short and the mobo warps to accommodate. Pretty much all processor heatsinks in the PC industry have spring tension mounts to allow for some heat expansion, even the PS3 has a leaf spring type bracket. Only the Xbox 360 has the retarded design to cancel out the clamp spring balance with black screws. This leaves all the pressure on the motherboard, it's like microwaving an egg, it's a bad design.

This post has been edited by relaxxx: Jan 7 2012, 03:07 PM
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