QUOTE(t3rm3y @ Jun 15 2012, 11:43 AM)
Thanks for the reply.
I was under the impression the xclamp replacement is probably short lived, i would love to buy a reworkign station and do stuff myself. or even better make a living from it. but i cant afford one. i wont be trying the oven method as just silly - why would a heat gun not be effiecient?
also - how do you get the flux under the chips? they are so close to the board i cant see how liquid would get through, seems to just run over the top. ?
Yes it is short lived, often so short lived that it isn't even worth the time. I bought a cheap smd reworking station a while back (Aoyue 852A++) for 60 bucks plus shipping on ebay. They are out there if you keep an eye out.
The oven method is better than a heatgun, in my opinion, because a HUGE part of reflows/reballs is the preheating process. It isn't enough to just heat the chips up because when you expose one tiny section of the board to high temperatures like that, localized thermal expansion happens. This warps the board, and when the board is flexed/warped, the chips may not sit correctly on it and not all the contacts will be touching. Oven reflows are better because they heat the entire board up at once so there is no flexing, the reason you shouldn't really use a reflow oven for an Xbox is because of the plastic pieces and capacitors that can't stand that much heat (so if you attempted it, you'd need to insulate them a lot). This is why a reworking station with a preheater is a better option because the preheater (or presto griddle if you're cheap) heats the board up just enough so that nothing explodes or melts, and then the reworking station provides the rest of the heat needed to liquify the solder in that targeted spot (gpu or other chip).
If you use liquid no-clean flux, you can use a pipette to slowly waterfall it under the chips. It does get under there, you just have to be slow about it so it doesn't just make a stream around the chip's perimeter. It's also hard to get it under there on the boards with the glue around the chips, you can remove it but I usually just try to tilt the board and work with it.
Also if you attempt any home reflow method, use an infrared thermometer or even better yet, a thermocouple to monitor temperatures. Too low of a temperature and you have a short-lived reflow. Too high, and you have bridged solder that can only be fixed with a full reball.
Also if you want a reflow, you can send it to me. Or Wilgo on here also has a much better setup than me and can do reflows or reballs.
QUOTE(rilski @ Jun 15 2012, 05:26 PM)
Don't take this the WRONG way, but please tell this to the team-xecuter forums also if this is true.
No offense to them, but they specialize in creating hardware intended to mod/hack the 360. I wouldn't buy their RROD fix kit for the same reason I wouldn't buy a pair of shoes made by a car company. lol. Who can blame them for using their popular name to cash in on a popular "fix" for the RROD though. It's still the fix that is plaguing the internet, even though new information has shown it to be a terrible idea, people still swear by it because it fixed their Xbox for a month or two (or a year if you're really lucky).