I cant seem to get any help, this is the 3rd forum I've tried. I really hope you guys can help me out.

I was making a USB dongle for my s controller so that I could connect it to my PC.
I didn't have any solder but I twisted the wires very tightly and taped them up very well. (leaving out the yellow, of course)
I snapped the end back on, and put some hot glue inside the end to make it stable.

Well it didn't work. I connected it to my PC, and it didn't find it.
So I connected that dongle to 2 other controllers I had, nothing.
Well, I figured I would just try again. So I grabbed an original quick connect and plugged my controller back into the xbox to play a game. But now or doesn't work, nor does the other 2 controllers.
They worked before connecting them to my PC, but now, nothing.
I'm assuming I blew a fuse on the controllers when I connected them to the PC.
Is there a fuse on the s controller?

I thought it might be the little cylinder thing on the cord 2 inches from the controller. Ibut after opening one up, and finding a metal cylinder (which I would like to know its purpose)
If there isn't a fuse what would make all three controllers stop working like that?
I've tried 4-5 other quick connects, but still nothing.

Any ideas guys?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Original xbox
2 black s controllers
1 transparenT controller
All Microsoft controllers

At this point I don't care about getting them to work with my PC, I'll worry about that later. Right now I just want them to work on my xbox again

Here are some pics of it:

http://db.tt/80GlYPgV

http://db.tt/k5VQ217z

http://db.tt/puWRFTcM

I hate to say it but I think you may have reversed the 5v polarity somehow on your adapter and in doing so, burned out all of the controllers you've tested. There are no fuses that I'm aware of inside the controllers so you may be screwd.

As a last ditch effort, you could try connecting the controllers in question to a different xbox to see if they work there, but I suspect that they are dead. I would definitely recheck all of the wiring inside your adapter before trying it out on any other sticks.

PS - The little cylindrical metal thing you asked about is just some sort of shielding device.

EDIT:Nice looking adapter.

How would I have reversed the polarity on the adapter? USB connections have a wire for positive 5gative 5, ground, which would be the same as the xbox controller wires as its basically a USB connection which an extra v-sync wire. I thought that maybe it put to much power to out in some way. But its a new motherboard, so idk how that would have happened.
Also, I tried connecting the cable I made to a USB hub and then plugging it into my PC,.and out found it. I'm having trouble getting the drivers to work, but its progress I guess.

You think I might have screwed IP the actual Ports on the xbx up? Would that be worth taKing apart acne checking?

It really is weird that it could have fried all controllers as they all take 5 volts. Maybe the amperage is different?
This sux

And thanks on the comment, I tried to do a clean job. Too bad it really wasn't worth it

This is possible, which is why I suggest plugging your suspect controllers into another Xbox. If they work there, then your Xbox may have been damaged. If this is the case, the controller ports will be fine. It will be the USB controller chip on the Xbox that was damaged which could be easily fixed, depending on your Xbox version. However, damage to your console is unlikely because from what I've read, you never mention connecting any foreign devices/adapters into the Xbox, unless you've left something out.

As far as your adapter, the + and - power pins are the 2 outside pins, so if, for example, you soldered the Xbox controller wires to the USB connector while holding it in the wrong orientation, the power lines (and data lines) would be reversed.

Another possibility is that the company that manufactured the USB device (that you cut the connector off of) used non-standard wire colors (I.E. black 5v+ and red 5v-). So when you then twisted up the wires by simply matching the colors, you unknowingly had an improperly wired circuit.

That may be possible. I did connect color to color, assuming they were the same, but I guess what u suggested is possible. Unfortunately, I don't have another xbox to try it out on, nor anyone I know that lives near me.
I didn't connect any modified wires to the actual xbox, I just tried different quick connect dongles.

Also, is it just me or do some quick connects only work with certain controllers? I would think they are all the same, except for maybe the plastic color. But I've (in the past) connected a dongle to a controller, have it not work, swap it out for another, and have it work. Then try the first one that didn't work on another controller, and have it work also.

I am unfortunately unemployed right now, or I would just buy one off ebay, along with a pc xbox controller. (since I'm not able to get the drivers installed for it)

I've let them all sit (including the xbox) with the power unplugged, letting all the power drain, hoping it would reset and work when trying again. (even though I doubt it)


Another idea..

If they don't work after draining the power out, maybe I should try making one without the dongle at all.
As in; directly solder a usb end to the controller's wire, before the quick connect connector at the end..

Would this work? Or does it actually need the quick connect to work?

Last night, I decided to repair a controller wire while I was at all of this. It was shorting out (right near the controller) and I decided to open it up, cut out the bad area, and splice it back together.
I didnt get to finish yet, but I did notice an extra black wire, which is much thicker than the rest.
I'm assuming it's an extra ground?
Does it go all the way to the end?
If so, and if I end up attaching a usb connector as I mentioned above, would I just connect both ground wires to the single ground on the usb end?


I appreciate your help man. It's always good to have someone around with a little insight.

Let me see if I can cover all of your questions.

I have never had an issue with quick release compatibility between different controllers. That issue may be an isolated one.

The "power drain" thing isn't possible here. In this case, If your controllers have in fact been connected backward, they are gone. No way to reverse that without actually repairing them by replacing faulty components.

The quick release cable (pigtails) are just that. A means for the controller to come unplugged if the cable is tripped over. There are only wires inside so the controllers can be directly wired to the console without the pigtails, however I would advice against the idea of cutting off the end of the controller cable. For one, you can always desolder the complete cable from the dead controller and solder it onto a working one, but once you cut into the cable, the shielding is no longer effective, and the cable will have a much shorter longevity.

The thicker black wire that you mention is a shielding wire and basically yes, another ground, but should be connected to ground at both ends of the cable in order to do it's job. It isn't required for the controller to work tho. It only helps block out/keep in interference. The thicker wire should be soldered to the metal USB plug itself if it is a bare USB plug. If you are working with a "chopped off" USB, then yes, connect both black wires from the controller to the USB ground.

I know it's hard to swallow, but from everything you have told me, I am pretty certain your sticks were fried. You really should have checked your adapter wiring when the first otherwise functional stick failed to respond using your adapter.

Well I thought I had picked up a bad controller. Also, as I said, I've had issues with certain quick connects only working with certain controllers, which us why I just switched them out. I know the wiring I did was correct. The only thing I can really think odd is that either the USB male end I used was bad, or the wires inside it were incorrectly labeled, or my computers USB connection put too much amperage to the controller and fried it. The reason I think that may have been it is bcuz I have a new Asus motherboard with the USB charging feature, which was activated at the time. I thought that, in order for that to work, a compliant device had to be connected for it to be activated, but it might have put too much juice to it.
I am going to finish repairing the shorted wire from one of the controllers and redo the adapter I made with a new USB end.

And as far as the power drain goes, I was really meaning the xbox as I know the capacitors I'm the controllers are very small and wouldn't take long to drain.
But I'll wait to try it until I've repaired the one cord.
Looks like I'll be buying a new controller tho.

Thanks for the help. I'll let you know what the outcome is tomorrow.