I have tried everything.
The jumpers are correctly soldered.
Adīthis is not my first Tsop flash iīm making so i can promise you that it is the right points.
Iīm using Raincoat 0.7 and i am still getting the ID: 00 09
Itīs a 1.4 with Winbond TSOP (w49f020t).
But there is one little thing here.
I shorted by misstake the resistor just beside one of the jumper paths (the one closest to the TSOP)
So maby the Tsop is damaged or the McPX.
But i measure 3.2v at both of the jumpers and still get the error message.
Which voltage should they be?
They are directly linked to 2 pins on the Tsop right? then itīs possible to directly feed them with the right level.
So should the be High och Low?
And witch pins?
The Tsop is working as normal, so in the worst case iīll have to modd it with a LPC chip.
/Hedis
Iīm going skeeing for some days now so Iīll be back at sunday.
Full Version: Unable To Flash "0x09"
eeeeeekkkkkkkkk you have to get that resistor back on or else 
| QUOTE (Hedis @ Mar 11 2004, 07:13 AM) |
| But there is one little thing here. I shorted by misstake the resistor just beside one of the jumper paths (the one closest to the TSOP) So maby the Tsop is damaged or the McPX. |
This is why raincoat tells you to...
| QUOTE (raincoat 0.7) |
| Check that your flash-enable points are correctly soldered, that the neighbouring circuitry is not damaged, and that any A18 or A19 switches are correctly set. |
You've damaged the neighbouring circuitry by short-circuiting the resistor. You need to un-damage it by removing the short-circuit. You'll then be able to flash.
Off course the resistor is back in place.
| QUOTE |
| You've damaged the neighbouring circuitry by short-circuiting the resistor. You need to un-damage it by removing the short-circuit. You'll then be able to flash. |
The short-circuit is gone and have been for long.
And Iīm not able to flash it.
Can someone tell me with level those 2 point should have? (High or low?) or is it data lines? (well iīll go and see with the oscilloscope)
And witch pins are the connected to at the TSOP?
Some background info
Iīm not a newbee so you can skip that info.
I have flashed Many many xboxes and done the most of the things you can do with the hardware (Memory modding, replaced TSOP etc.)
I too have a 1.4 with the same winbond chip and can not flash. I have tested the solder points and surrounding circuit and have not found any errors. I also removed the board and tryed bridging the bottom points and still get the same error. Has anyone successfully flashed the TSOP on a 1.4 with a w49f020t winbond chip and focus video processor? I'm starting to think it is something specific with this board.
| QUOTE (ccbadd @ Mar 14 2004, 04:10 PM) |
| I too have a 1.4 with the same winbond chip and can not flash. I have tested the solder points and surrounding circuit and have not found any errors. I also removed the board and tryed bridging the bottom points and still get the same error. Has anyone successfully flashed the TSOP on a 1.4 with a w49f020t winbond chip and focus video processor? I'm starting to think it is something specific with this board. |
I have flashed many boards but Iīm not shure if anyone of those have had exactly that winbond chip.
I canīt say to 100% that itīs not my short-circuit that has damaged the board.
Iīll make some more testing and report if any sucess.
Well, I was wrong. I went back and pull the board and I had messed up on the bottom jumper. I did have to use raincoart 0.7 though but it is fine now.
Well, here is some backenginering info:
The 10k resistor is connected to Vcc and the other side to Pin 7 @Tsop.
One of the sideīs of the jumper goes also to pin7 and the other side to the Nvidia McPX.
So the resistor is a pullup resistor @10kohm.
When we solder the bridge we connects the Mcpx to the WE pin @ the Tsop.
So now the McPX has the power to pull the WE low and Write Enable the Tsop.
The other Jumper is like this:
A 10kohm resistor is connected between ground and OE (pin 32@Tsop)
One side of the jumper is connected to the OE@Tsop and the other side to the Nvidia McPX.
I think my misstake burned the McPX.
So Iīll try to ground the pin by myself and see whats happening.
EDIT: Picture and text updated.
The 10k resistor is connected to Vcc and the other side to Pin 7 @Tsop.
One of the sideīs of the jumper goes also to pin7 and the other side to the Nvidia McPX.
So the resistor is a pullup resistor @10kohm.
When we solder the bridge we connects the Mcpx to the WE pin @ the Tsop.
So now the McPX has the power to pull the WE low and Write Enable the Tsop.
The other Jumper is like this:
A 10kohm resistor is connected between ground and OE (pin 32@Tsop)
One side of the jumper is connected to the OE@Tsop and the other side to the Nvidia McPX.
I think my misstake burned the McPX.
So Iīll try to ground the pin by myself and see whats happening.
EDIT: Picture and text updated.
| QUOTE (ccbadd @ Mar 14 2004, 05:06 PM) |
| Well, I was wrong. I went back and pull the board and I had messed up on the bottom jumper. I did have to use raincoart 0.7 though but it is fine now. |
So you managed to flash yours now? Great!
But in my case, i have think I have damaged the McPX.
I have tested both the top and the bottom jumper.
Now itīs time for some testing.
Some news:
If I manually pull WE to ground I get 0x90.
And if linked to McPX I get 0x09
If not connected at all (As the retail xbox) I get 0x09.
If I manually pull OE to ground I get 0x90.
And if linked to McPX I get 0x09
If not connected at all (As the retail xbox) I get 0x09.
So something is very wrong.
Maby the TSOP is blown. But i donīt think so becouse what happend is that i feed +5v to the WE pin. And thats a totaly normal thing. So more possible is that the McPX didnīt like the +5v on its line that it held low.
But why doesnīt it give med my manufacture info when i manually enable writing?
EDIT: Updated with new tests.
If I manually pull WE to ground I get 0x90.
And if linked to McPX I get 0x09
If not connected at all (As the retail xbox) I get 0x09.
If I manually pull OE to ground I get 0x90.
And if linked to McPX I get 0x09
If not connected at all (As the retail xbox) I get 0x09.
So something is very wrong.
Maby the TSOP is blown. But i donīt think so becouse what happend is that i feed +5v to the WE pin. And thats a totaly normal thing. So more possible is that the McPX didnīt like the +5v on its line that it held low.
But why doesnīt it give med my manufacture info when i manually enable writing?
EDIT: Updated with new tests.
Hedis, this might be a longshot, but did you verify that your bios.bin that you're trying to program with is the correct size when you FTPed it over? Check against the backup BIOS (you did back it up right?
). I was going nuts trying to figure out why the two simple solder points wouldn't connect until I realized my bios.bin image was the wrong size and somehow gave the error message. I suspect the 0x9 error message might be an "else" catch-all and it still shows up if an image fails checksum. If that's the problem, I'd undo everything else you've done before you try it again though. HTH.
bzbee
). I was going nuts trying to figure out why the two simple solder points wouldn't connect until I realized my bios.bin image was the wrong size and somehow gave the error message. I suspect the 0x9 error message might be an "else" catch-all and it still shows up if an image fails checksum. If that's the problem, I'd undo everything else you've done before you try it again though. HTH.bzbee
I too tried flashing a 1.4 ... it erased fine, but then when it was about to write it gave an error, I was left without a TSOP and had to get a modchip... watch out guys...
| QUOTE (bzbee @ Mar 14 2004, 10:59 PM) |
| Hedis, this might be a longshot, but did you verify that your bios.bin that you're trying to program with is the correct size when you FTPed it over? Check against the backup BIOS (you did back it up right?). I was going nuts trying to figure out why the two simple solder points wouldn't connect until I realized my bios.bin image was the wrong size and somehow gave the error message. I suspect the 0x9 error message might be an "else" catch-all and it still shows up if an image fails checksum. If that's the problem, I'd undo everything else you've done before you try it again though. HTH. bzbee |
Well, I donīt even get the manufacture ID from the chip so it has nothing to do with the file.
If you write ./raincoat you should get the ID. I only get 0x09 (0x90).
So there is something other thatīs bugging me.
But thankīs for the advice.
I i would be able to get a fragged xbox I would be happy
That would mean I am able to reprogram the TSOP. But not this one
| QUOTE (xaser @ Mar 14 2004, 11:58 PM) |
| I too tried flashing a 1.4 ... it erased fine, but then when it was about to write it gave an error, I was left without a TSOP and had to get a modchip... watch out guys... |
"an error"? What one?
| QUOTE (Hedis @ Mar 15 2004, 07:34 AM) | ||
Well, I donīt even get the manufacture ID from the chip so it has nothing to do with the file. If you write ./raincoat you should get the ID. I only get 0x09 (0x90). So there is something other thatīs bugging me. But thankīs for the advice. I i would be able to get a fragged xbox I would be happy That would mean I am able to reprogram the TSOP. But not this one |
Check that resistor. Better still, follow the tracks away from the resistor to the next available solder points or vias, and check from there. It should be about 10K.
I have checked the resistor many many times. They are ok.
So there is something else.
I have even manually set WE low and still the same result.
So there is something else.
I have even manually set WE low and still the same result.
Hedis,
Just curious, I could not get it to work without bridging both the top and bottom points, did you connect both or just the top set? I just did another one today and it worked perfect the first time and I did solder the top two points and the bottom two.
Good luck.
Just curious, I could not get it to work without bridging both the top and bottom points, did you connect both or just the top set? I just did another one today and it worked perfect the first time and I did solder the top two points and the bottom two.
Good luck.
| QUOTE (ccbadd @ Mar 15 2004, 10:32 PM) |
| Hedis, Just curious, I could not get it to work without bridging both the top and bottom points, did you connect both or just the top set? I just did another one today and it worked perfect the first time and I did solder the top two points and the bottom two. Good luck. |
I have only tried 2 @ the top and 1 @ the bottom.
Which 2 at the bottom?
Iwas referring to bridging the two pad together from the tutorial. That is the only point I soldered.
| QUOTE (ccbadd @ Mar 16 2004, 03:21 PM) |
| Iwas referring to bridging the two pad together from the tutorial. That is the only point I soldered. |
ok
Sorry, I originally posted the wrong info, so I edited it out. Please see this thread:
0x00, 0x09 Error When Flashing
0x00, 0x09 Error When Flashing
Well.....
Now the mission is closed.
I skipped flashing the Tsop and installed a LPC chip instead.
But not the easy way
I hade some old AppleX-III chips laying around so i soldered a wire from the Lframe on the McPX to the LPC buss. And it all worked fine at the first attempt.
But first i ha to get a bios into the AppleX chip. (it was flashed with a M$ org. bios)
So i desoldered the Eeprom from a Alladin advance (the old one without socketed eeprom) and soldered a socket to it. Then i hotswapped the eeprom and flashed the 2īd one.
Soldered it back to the AppleX and soldered that one into the xbox
Why make it the easy way? (maby I should make and adapter for PLCC->DIL32 so i could flash those eeproms in my eeprom burner)
Itīs not funny anymoore
Nothing is "hard" soldering
Now the mission is closed.
I skipped flashing the Tsop and installed a LPC chip instead.
But not the easy way
I hade some old AppleX-III chips laying around so i soldered a wire from the Lframe on the McPX to the LPC buss. And it all worked fine at the first attempt.
But first i ha to get a bios into the AppleX chip. (it was flashed with a M$ org. bios
)So i desoldered the Eeprom from a Alladin advance (the old one without socketed eeprom) and soldered a socket to it. Then i hotswapped the eeprom and flashed the 2īd one.
Soldered it back to the AppleX and soldered that one into the xbox
Why make it the easy way? (maby I should make and adapter for PLCC->DIL32 so i could flash those eeproms in my eeprom burner)
Itīs not funny anymoore
Nothing is "hard" soldering
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