Full Version: Is 7 Volts Close Enough To 7.5?
I'm putting a hub in my PC Encased Xbox, and the hub comes with it's own 120-7.5 volt AC adapter. If I crossed the 5 and 12 volts from the PSU, would that suffice and not threaten the hub?
After testing the adapter with two separate multimeters, they both agree that it puts out 11.3 volts, even though it's labeled at a 7.5 volt output. Maybe I should just give it a full 12 volts.
if its half or 3/4 a volt off, it wont hurt ne thing
if you throw a granade 5 feet away from a person are they still goin to die. yes so i guess .5v is ok in ur situation
wtf???
umm, he was asking about 7 volts, not 5, and now he thinks it takes 11.3, in which case 12 volts would work (although after long periods of time the hib could blow a fuse ((if ur hub has a fuse like mine)) which is no big deal)
umm, he was asking about 7 volts, not 5, and now he thinks it takes 11.3, in which case 12 volts would work (although after long periods of time the hib could blow a fuse ((if ur hub has a fuse like mine)) which is no big deal)
Thanks
And it's not that crucial of a decision, as replacing a $10 hub isn't the end of the world.
[EDIT] Typos
And it's not that crucial of a decision, as replacing a $10 hub isn't the end of the world.
[EDIT] Typos
exactly
Maybe you're not using the multimeter correctly (no offense)....try just plugging the adapter into the router and then measuring the two points where the power comes into the router. And yes, 7v is fine for 7.5v in most cases, and many people here have done it before.
or you can be like me and find a car invertor that puts out 7.5v or lets you switch to 7.5v's, and use that (that way u hook 12v and ground to it, and it gives you appropriate 7.5v)
it worked for me
it worked for me
| QUOTE (Valentin Zukovsky @ May 8 2004, 02:25 AM) |
| After testing the adapter with two separate multimeters, they both agree that it puts out 11.3 volts, even though it's labeled at a 7.5 volt output. Maybe I should just give it a full 12 volts. |
Thats a common problem with those DC wallpacks. Your measuring its output under no load, and it will give you a totally different figure then when its under full load.
either way, most of the cheap ones often provide more DC voltage than is displayed on the label, which is why the REAL linear regulators are inside your circuitry.
Feeding it 12V might not be the best Idea because that 12V is constant under more load, and therefore your creating more heat for your linear regulators (inside) to dissapate...
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