[FONT=Arial]Well, After days of troubleshooting I've finally know that everything I have is soldered correctly and the 1 switch works properly. The Component pins are just not outputting a signal or any voltage. Perhaps I messed something up along the line and I can't see it. When I switch to S-video pack I get composite video/left/right audio, digital audio options. S-video plug doesn't work since my hd pins aren't working either. When I switch to the other side I see the original xbox dash through composite yellow and can switch the HD options without having component cables running(I now believe this because the xbox dash isn't in High definition, just games and a few other things. So, after enabling all the HD resolutions I load a game or application and the screen goes black, but I know the box is running properly. The multimeter shows that the composite yellow cable is no longer sending a signal which is normal, and the xbox is running in HD mode, yet my component pins are not sending a single volt/amp/watt...nothing.

That's why I'm thinking I killed something somewhere and have no clue as to what. Resistor/fried trace/blown something or other. I can't think I killed a trace since I'm so careful and I don't see any traces on the exterior of the board for component pins anyhow. Guess I'm going to try and trade mobo's with my friend since he only uses composite. Sux.

I think I've covered it. If something dawns on this prob then chime in. Is soldering to the solder already in the holes not a good idea? Could that stop my connection? Cuz on all the other outputs there's no problem and they're all soldered to the factory solder in those holes.

Re-read page 10 of this thread....Now I'm back in it.

Jared, you said you soldered 2 wires to alternate points. Were these component wires? I'm looking for an alternate spot to solder my component video wires if possible.

Also, spillage typed, "When you solder make sure you apply just the right amount so as to get deep penetration, whilst making sure you don't get solder shorting the pins of the AVIP socket underside."

Is this sayin not to solder to the bottom of the mobo for the component video? I did at one time, but have since resoldered to the topside.

PLEASE forgive the noob question/statement why don't you just use the component video plug?
There is a component video cable that plugs directly into the back of the Xbox and connects to component video on HDTV's, without using the MS HD pack.

no prob, nobody knows everything.

That doesn't apply to what I've done to my box. My current prob is no signal from the component pins on the motherboard, hence, no component video. I'm hoping there are some alternate points...Jared?

Does the "standard" output plug still work? I am not to "tech savy" to all this soldering point stuff, but if you could try the HD cable that plugs into the standard "port" to see if the HD works that way it might help with figuring out the problem?
Just a noob suggestion

Yes, the alternate points I soldered to were for the blue and red signals for the component cables. After resoldering a couple times with no success, I finally just grabbed a multimeter, followed traces, and found very small (D0 size) points that I could solder a jumper wire to. After that I just soldered the other end of the jumper wire to the pin on the AVIP.

Unfortunately I don't have my xbox with me at the moment, so I can't show you the alternate pins. I'll see what I can do for you though.

Edit: Even though the Component jacks weren't working, neither was the standard composite cable, so I think it may be more than just your soldering, or not even your soldering at all.

THANK YOU SO MUCH!! I'm not kidding, I'm 1.5 months into modding this box and weeks on hold because of this video problem. Finally I gave up on the video for now and went back to finishing the case. No rush, I can access the mobo easily at anytime. I'll look harder, but I don't know how you followed traces for the pins since I don't see a trace on either side of the board for the component pins. I dunno how it could be all 3 component outputs giving me a problem, but if I can get alt locations to jump from....sweet.


Read your edit, No, I think it's working the way it should cept the component pins aren't outputing. Because the composite works when not in HD mode, and then when it is in HD mode it allows me to see the xboxdash via composite and select hd modes since the original dash isn't in Hidef anyways...follow? Once I exit the dash after selecting the high def settings, that's when I lose signal from composite b/c it's turning off and wanting to send Hi-def, but nothing comes from the pins.

I understand what you're saying, but the signal doesn't have to be HD to go through the component cables. When I have high def mode enabled (11 + 12, 13 + 14), I get no output from the composite cable at all, even when I don't have a HD output selected... dashboard or otherwise... which is why I think it may not be a problem with your soldering. I'm not entirely sure though. I'll get you those alternate points as soon as I can.

ah, now I understand. Thx

Sorry I wasn't clear, trying to cram too much into one post. What I was essentially asking was whether the functionality of the Advanced Pack could be recreated without all of those analog components.

But never mind, what I think I'll do is take the Advanced Pack and make it switchable to have Component outputs. So for this it seems I need to:

(1) add a switch that changes the mode GND configuration
(2) break out the three component outputs

So... can this all be done at the dongle-box end of the Pack or does it have to be done at the connector end?

And if the latter, what's the easy way to open that connector without destroying it?

Thanks for the help!

im all done with the soldering and part gathering and such, and everything works, but im wondering why my s-video and composite video outputs are getting distortion. i have everythign laid out on pcb, and everythign sharing a common ground, but i doubt its the common ground thats distorting it. i also, for troubleshooting, connected the wire straight from the avip to the rca jack, and still distortion. anyone know a possible solution? btw, im using 22gauge wire.

This may or may not help your interference/distortion situation. An easy thing to do is twist the ground/power cable together like twisted pair cable. Sometimes it helps. It did in my case. Make a decent, semi-tight twist and then put a strip of electrical tape around it to keep it tight.

thanks, i'll try that later tonight and report my findings back.
-sandman1687

dude, you fucking rule! i twistwed the s-video cables, the RCA VLR ports, and the component video, and all work 100% better than before, absolutely NO DISTORTION! YOU ARE AWESOME, THANK YOU!

Sweet, that's the one thing I remembered from my ISDS 2755 course in Information Systems Management. Twisted pair cable. Man, college is great.

i have a few pics of the project so far.

http://members.cox.net/sandman1687/overall.JPG
this is an overall picture of it. the SPDT switch is the channel switch for the RF output.

http://members.cox.net/sandman1687/outputs.JPG
this is a pic of all the outputs so far (i will be adding a simple headphone/amp)

http://members.cox.net/sandman1687/closeup.JPG
closeup of the project

http://members.cox.net/sandman1687/plugboard.JPG
a picture of the AVIP plug and the pc board. the empty IC socket is for the future addition of an amplifier for headphone output.

reply if u want more pics/details, and i will def. report back when i have a finished product.

ps. look at all of those pretty twisted pair cables ;-)

-sandman1687

has anyone attempted to build a headphone amp for the xbox?

sandman1687-
looks very proffesional. Nice work there.
How are you gonna mount all that at the back of the box?

as you can see, there is a standard av plug, so i'll be putting it all into an external box. im currently researching pocket amplifiers that run off of 5v, so i wont need an external power supply/batteries.

ok, I'm starting to think it is a problem outside of my soldering, Jared. Like you said...

I mean my smartxx chip recognizes when I switch the switch. It'll read either HDTV mode or Type 5 mode which I suppose is s-video. So the switch is right...I don't know what could have happened to stop the video from working properly. Maybe someday I'll get another mobo. argh. "Hi I have an xbox and have dumped more than $500 into the box and hardware alone." bleh, the trick is not to think about it.

are you grounding one of our cables to one of the neighboring GND pins? or even accidently touching the bottom tray of the xbox case? also, check your RCA plugs and stuff like that. or even completely resolder everything, after removal/cleaning of course.
post pics of the avip section of the motherboard, and maybe someone can identify if something is missing.

i m a noobie, and heres a question

from the images that were posted (opened advance AV pack), i saw some sort circuitry (caps and resistors) on the S-video section. what are they for? Coz the schematic provided in this first post, i do not see these components.

are they filters for noise? what are the values? can we live w/o em?

the only circuitry is for the optical output and the VGA sync seperator.

below is the link... so if the circuit is already in the original module, y not just dupe it as well? it would probably have its own reason being there... rite? the components should be very cheap

advance AV pack

I am working on a project based on JaredC01's diagram (thanks JaredCO1!) Has anyone who has done this taken note of the nature of the signal on the mode select->ground connections? What I want to do is install a rotary switch instead of using three seperate switches. Here is the design I came up with:

T1, T2 and T3 would be the three mode pins (10, 12 and 14, if I remember correctly, and the ground would be the other three, 9, 11, and 13)



I added diodes to prevent unwanted shorts that would occur from having multiple connections to each pin. Will the diodes zap too much juice to correctly select the mode? Any other wacky flaws in my design? Am I in full compliance with the laws of thermodynamics?

Any thoughts?

thanks,

Bryan

very nice design bdonalds.

can anybody provide a link/diagram/schematic of the original Adv AV pack? or some component values maybe..?

anyone has any schematic??

Not sure if this is the right topic to post this question, but given the electronics knowledge regarding the XBOX that has already been posted in this topic I am sure some of you will know the answer to my question.

My TV has 480p and 1080i capability. It will not convert an incoming 720p signal, it will freak out and display a garbled screen becuase it wont sync. If I want to play a 720p compatible game in XBOX, will it be able to output 480p or 1080i, does the XBOX convert the 720p game to other formats? What should I set the XBOX outputs to be for each format (ON/OFF)?

Thanks for answering my question.
Derek

Nice tutorial!

quick question... The rca output on my xbox is not working correctly... if i were to solder in just the "y" like in your diagram.. woudl this be a possible fix?

My video problem is just that, no video at all, Svideo the video is all fuzzy and dull... audio/everythign thing else works perfect.

If I have this right... you're not getting any composite video? If that's the case, you either need to check your soldering, or make sure you didn't desolder anything... the first time I did the mod, I had lifted a resistor and only the composite video didn't work anymore... took me forever to figure that one out...

As for the S-Video, sounds like you've got the chromiance and luminance reversed. Switch your top two wires and see if that works.

has anyone experimented with pulling the vsync and the hsync directly form the conexant chip to circumvent the need for a VGA bios?

A noob question

If I wanted to install a switch for standard/advanced mode
Would a switch combination
9 + 10 standard

9&11 + 10 advanced

be enough

I know only the advanced mode (just soldering 9 + 10+12) would be enough for me (composite and svideo/spdif enabled)
but I would like to have the option to switch(and to learn)

The easiest way would be to use one SPST switch.

Hook one side of the SPST switch up to pin 10, 12, or 14. Then simply attach pin 11 to the other side of the switch.

After you have the switch hooked up, simply run a short wire from pin 9 to pin 10. When you have the SPST switch turned on, pins 9 and 11 will be grounded, and when you have the SPST switch turned off, only pin 9 will be grounded.

Hope that helps.

hey jared could u make a diagram for adding vga to the advanced av pack pcb? I do not liked soldering to the avip since the wires come off kind of easily and i rather have it in a neat box. Thx in advance

Hi, i'v a problem with the build of Componet cable.
i'v connected the wire in the right place, but the screen on my proiector is black!
i'v connected the 11 to 12 and 13 to 14, is this right?
the connection table on the first page is right?
please help me|
i'm driving crazy!

ok i have an svideo connector it has 4 wires already connected to it...the problem is i can't see where they are conected 2...the colors are red green white and black...and way to tell which wire goes where?

have you a picture where i can see wath kind of connection i have to do?
but the number 1 connector wath is on the xbox camble?
i see the xbox connector from the rear, is this right?

I just added composite video and audio connectors because old doesn´t work. So, now i just want to get it work without standart A/V cable plugged in. DoI just have to connect pin 9 to pin 10? Am I right? I hope that you answer bocause my english isn´t very good so mayde I don´t understand everything what yu have wroten.

long time since my last reply, but i just got a PS2 (with san andreas) so my time has been put into a new project. i created a common pinout for every console i can think of (had to be 25 pins b/c of xbox connector). i built all components into a small project box (including an RF tuner). to minimize interference, i built an on/off switch into the RF tuner so i can turn it off when im not using it. i'll let the pictures speak for themselves:
(the only wiring that has been installed is the wiring for the tuner and the LM1881 sync-seperator circuit (PS2 has native VGA output). (holes on HD/SPDIF output side are for mode switches)







PS. Rectangular openings look like shit because its hard to make a rectangular cut with a rotary tool (dremel).

its all coming together....