Now for some information on the EL4511. Mind you, I do NOT have this chip at this time. I'm just going by the datasheet:



You'll notice that it is a lot bigger than the other chips and is a lot more complex. It is designed to operate with HDTV and multiple sync environments (such as Component Video which can switch between interlaced and prgressive scan on the fly - the reason it can autosync without the need for an RSET resistor). It can also be operated with microcontrollers if you need to use it in that way. I had said earlier that it can be used in removing sync from video and I was half right. You see, one of the ways to remove sync is to multiplex two special signals, VBLANK and CLAMP, into a video signal. VBLANK nullifies the vertical sync and CLAMP nullifies the horizontal sync. Strangely enough only VBLANK is present on the 4511.

But the 4511 can be used for standard RGB analog usage (interlaced and progressive scan):



As you can see, some of the pins you attach to ground, some you attach to +5VDC, and you input video on pin 10 (composite sync out (pin 19) is not shown in the picture). There is no RSET resistor. You really would not need to use pins 9 and 11 unless you wanted to created composite sync from separate sync.

I should go and get one for myself if I can only find composite sync from my PS2 motherboard and use it for progressive scan games (like "Soul Caliber II"). I hope I have been able to give you guys good info on all of the chips I have used and know about up to this point despite not having used the 4511 myself.

LoL i guess everyone looked at this, scratched their heads and walked off

LOL You know it.

Sorry if I got a little technical there. I was merely trying to share my knowledge of sync separators with the group. I hope I didn't scare you guys off.....

no its a great post, just tring to make use of it. I used L33 vga cable guide and fix the AVP 8 problem, but my monitor gets a signal, but says something about the frequency is out of range, I have no clue as how to fix it either, I have tried bios, enable the 480i or what ever and still have a no go.

hey man, if that 4511 turns out to solve the vga proglem, you'd be a savior to many people (including myself). jared mentioned that if combined with a microcontroller we could maybe get vga. what kind of microcontroller would one need?

Still doing some research on it... as far as I know right now... you may not need the microcontroller... I'll post some info once I figure something out. It will probably be a while though... I haven't even ordered the 4511 chip yet.

Go to Intersil's web site and go to their sample request sheet. I usually ask for about three units for any chip I am interested in when I ask for a sample.

After submitting a request you will usually get a phone call from one of their engineers (I usually end up talking with Rudy who I've dealt with over the years). These guys will end up talking way over your head but if you explain to them that you are simply using it for Xbox VGA experiments you will usually get the samples (along with some useful information). This will also save you a few bucks in the process.

These guys have been very good to me since I started dealing with them a few years back when they were still known as Elantec. I highly recommend going through them when dealing with sync separators or any other kind of chips.

www.intersil.com

Forgot to add the web address. Duh!

It's getting late here and I need to go to bed.....

excellent, i might go ahead and see if i can get a sample

wow soulds like this may just be under way.

I'll be adding a couple of VGA diagrams using different chips here soon... will also be updating the instructions to include the TOSLINK optical jack tested by sandman1687.

First, JaredC01, thank you for all the hard work done!!!


Just found this thread
Just found that my LCD TV supported HDTV
Just found that my PAL xbox didn't support HDTV
Just found that switching it to NTSC would do it!

So... I grabbed some old xbox RGB cable i had, pulled the xbox male plug, and did the HDTV cable, using it and two Y-R-W (yellow, red, white) cables. I did not connect any of the optical connections.

Everything went fine, connected xbox to TV, worked fine, went to M$ dash activated the 480p mode and rebooted to evox dash, it was completely out of sync.
Then i tested the other hdtv modes 720p and 1080i and whenever i run a program that supports hdtv (avalauch, xbmc) i get the image like if it was out of sync.

After reading all the post two times, i still can't figure out the problem. Any ideias?

Thank you!

Ok, I hate translated manuals, my TV just came with a Portuguese manual, and whenever hdtv was mentioned it was only hdtv.

Just went now to the support site to get the original english manual and voilá! Just discovered that i connected the cables in the wrong place.
The TV has two component inputs one for DVD and another to DTV, in the english manual they are more specific: DVD (480i~576i) and DTV (480p~1080i)...

Yesterday night, I just tested the DVD connection!

As soon i get home i will try the DTV connection and post the results.

It worked.

When booting when the big X appears, the black color is somehow greenish... is it normal?
And for the "normal resolution" software (evox, games, etc) that don't support hdtv modes the image is too much crisp, in some cases i suppose it was better with the normal xbox cable. is this normal too?

Thank you!

I wish i could get mine working. seems like no matter what i try, still keep getting frequecny out of range. Note: my monitor isnt a SOG so i am using the LM1881N sync and a Compaq FS7600 monitor.

Which cable is the solution for best picture: HD or VGA? My 42" LG monitor has both. Whitch should I choose?
Also, the images on the first page are for the XBOX motherboard or for the adapter?
I think those images aren't too explicit for me.
The signal on Coaxial and Optical is the same? Can I made only the Coaxial one (because seems easier). If it is so, for coaxial I need only pins 24 and 6 only, pin 1 has something to do with?
Thanks in advance! (I need a quick response because tomorrow I will give it a try and I allready have a XBOX DVD and HDD broken, I dont want to learn from mistakes for the monitor too )

DuxRahV -

Go with HD. VGA still has problems and you can get the same quality picture with HD. Besides, you don't need any special chips or bioses to use HD.

The images are for the connections on the XBOX motherboard.

Yes, the Coax audio and Optical audio signals are the same. Which you use depends on which you want to, really... the reason that optical has an extra wire (pin 1) is to power the light. (VCC is a standard +5V... useful for powering transisters) Generally a good idea to use coax over short distances because the cable is less expensive.

Thanks, Jameson42!
I've moddified the cable before reading your reply, but still thanks a lot. I've used my Standard A/V cable and made a High Def A/V one. The only difference is that now the yelow is for Y, the white is for Pb, the red is for Pr, and I have an extra cable for sound (coaxial). I've decided not to make a box because I don't want to use switches to choose the output mode. I'm gonna buy an extra Standard A/V cable for using the XBOX with a non HDTV capable TV instead of my LG 42" Plasma. The reason for not-buying an HD A/V cable is that I live in Romania and the only way to get one is to buying it online (one month deliver time, 40-50 bucks transport fee to this destination). The modification took me 10 minutes instead and you hardly can see the difference, its the same cable with an extra wire (I've dissasambeled and reassambeled it very carefull).
The result shocked me! I didnt believed my eyes when I saw that the modification actually works. Now I have 1080i on my plasma (real 5.1 sound) and the difference is huge even for games that have no support for HDTV. Also for XBMC and Linux.
JaredC01, you are the man!

Hey,

Just thought I'd share my pics with everyone. I cut all the back fins off and then soldered directly to the bottom of the mobo. It was more time consuming but I think it is nicer then having to carry around a seperate box. To make it look cleaner I just cut a peice of black posterboard to match the outputs and glued it on. That way I could easily access anything if need be, and also label the outputs. And to hide the screws and general messyness of it all.







Hope you like it,
Kdeuce

Nicely done, kdeuce.

To save me time checking all 25 pages of this thread...

Could someone tell we what type of wire/cable to use for standard a/v setup???

Can I just use standard 30 awg wire???

You can use pretty much any wire you want. Cat-5 cable works good... 30 awg will work fine too.

Possibly some good news for VGA users... I was wandering around the forums and found someone asking about some schematics for a VGA adapter. Looks to me like it might remove the need for a vga-specific bios, but I'm not sure. Was hoping some of you guys would take a look at it and say what you think.

Here's the topic
and here's the schematics

After changing fan in my xbox, the video output is not working. I don't get any picture with scart (RGB), but my tv detect that the xbox is starting and changing it's channel to AV. I don't get any picture with composite video with the original xbox AV cable.

The only way to get a picture is to use S-Video and a cable from Joytech.

What's wrong?

Here is another question:

How can this cable from Joytech work? In one end there is a Xbox AV plug and in the other end it is a Y-cable with one cable to a scart and one cable to S-Video and 2 audio plugs. The scart is supposed to be RGB.
I don't find any mode that will output both RGB and S-Video.



Link to the specifications of cable

is this really easier than getting a knock-off set of wires

Hi Everyone,

I am greatly in need for some serious help. I have a 1.4 focus pal xbox modded with xecuter 3 ce which works fine. I made a vga cable from jared's thread and tried different bioses but found out that the best was ind-bios.5001.06.vga.b1-junkmonkey which is working kinda ok. I got samsung syncmaster 170mp which is sog enabled and works perfectly.

The problem is that the display is green in evox and avalaunch but surprisingly ok in xbmc. The second problem is that as soon as i run certain games with the junkmonkey bios enabled, my display just goes blank. The game seems to be running as i see something going on by the hdd light. Games such as soul calibur 2, thief deadly shadows. I also can't get project snowblind and brothers in arms to work which are both ntsc version but thought that as it is ntsc, it might somehow not work with my vga display.

I made the cable exactly the same minus the Lm33 switch thing. As it worked after my first try, i thought it is not really needed.

SO COULD ANYONE PLEASE BE KIND ENOUGH TO HELP A FELLOW XBOXER?????

ANY HELP WILL BE GREAT!!!!!

I finally got around to testing everything this weekend and I have a problem. Everything works perfectly fine (composite, optical(totx179), coaxial, and s-video) But component is all screwy.At first it was all jumpy and discolored, So I figured I had the Blue + and - switched. So I changed them around and it powered up fine except now whats supposed to be blue is green and the reds are darker.

Is there a way I can test the leads with a voltometer or something. I figure since s-video is working then red-green are fine. And I can't get to the mobo connections as I hot-glued around it already. Since I double double checked when I did it I assumed everything was fine.

Anyone?

I know you can't get to the mobo connections, but hot glue is clear, so at least trace your connections visually to make sure they're correct... Sounds like there might be something wrong with your green. With component video, green carries the overall brightness and the sync signals. The ground connections (-) are common accross the board.

I don't suggest hot glue for those connections... your solder job and some electrical tape should hold things just fine, assuming you aren't dropping your xbox down any stairs, putting it in trash compactors, etc.

Final thing you could try is just remove the hot glue, and resolder all your connections.

Well the hot glue dries a hazy white sort of color... no chance of seeing thru it. And I've tried three times to just cut it all off... thats not gonna happen either.

But I took a voltometer and checked the voltages of the green and red connections. They both give me a positive voltage. While neither + or - off the blue will give me anything. So that, with the fact that s-video looks perfectly fine makes me beleive one of the blue connections got messed up.

So my only choice is to either buy the component cable, make a breakaway cable, or find alternate points for the blue. Which If anyone who has a 1.6b board could take a picture and point them out, that'd be awesome. It kinda sucks having all those connectins work, except the one you wanted most...

Real Nice Guide.
(A bit late... )

I have a 1.6 board, but I didn't have to use the alternate points. On the first xbox I did (1.2), I did have to use 2 alternate points. I don't have the first xbox anymore though. You have a multimeter I'm assuming... just follow the traces to a small solder point, use the multimeter to check that it's the correct point, and solder the wire to that point. Only thing, you have to be quite good at soldering in order to get the wire attached. The points are about as small, if not smaller than the D0/LFRAME point.

First I wanted to thank everyone for all their help.

Now, I'm not exactly sure how to trace points since I can't get to the A/V pins anymore. I'm not really worried about soldering the little points.. that shouldn't be a problem.. it's just finding them.

thanks again,
Kevin

If you have an X3, do you still need to use the sync separator circuit to get VGA?

you need the sync separator circuit to get horizontal and vertical sync signals, because the xbox AVIP doesn't provide working ones. you don't need the sync separator if you have a monitor that supports sync on green.

The numbers in the solder points refer to what? The Xbox mainboard?

And if I want to use DVI-D , or D-Sub , I "mod" an av pack?

Bump..............

You can't use DVI-D with the xbox. It doesn't support it. You CAN, however, use analog DVI, which is the same thing as using component video. So... there is really no point in adding a DVI jack, unless you HAVE to have it.

Ok, i dont know if this has been asked before but 26 pages is a lot to read to find one answer. My question is that i wish to add the composite video, white and red audio jacks to the back of my xbox, just like it shows in the standard a/v diagram, however, i want it to think the advanced av pack is plugged in so that it will output in dolby digital surround sound. But i only need the composite, and the two audio jacks, so would i have to put in that second switch like shown in the advanced a/v diagram? Or if i do it just like in the standard a/v diagram would the audio be outputted as surround sound?

are those switches with the blue wire

also what are the 100nF things

There seems to be a large number of people recently wondering if it's possible to use Composite video or S-Video while in High Def (Component) video mode. To set all of the questions to rest... No, you can NOT use any other type of connection while in High Def mode, other than Component video.

Hi,

I am moving my posting from General Hardware, I have purchase a High Defination Pack AV by mistake as I do not have a HDTV or any device with component input. I am now trying to modify the cable for the following:-

1. Pin 2 & 4 for RED
2. Pin 3 & 5 for White
3. Pin 21 & 23 for Composite
4. Pin 24 & 6 for Coax

I did not ground the case on the Scart. I did not make the Fiber Digital Out only the Coax digital out.

I have video and can set Dolby Digital on MS Dash but no sound on Mono, Stereo and Composite.

Where did I go wrong?

Jackdon.

I'm having issues with the coaxial connection I soldered. I'm using XBMC, with SmartXX.
In the beginning, everything was fine. But the sound went out about every 3 minutes or so. It would come back on after about 2 seconds. But now ( I soldered it a week ago ) the sound never stays on longer than 2 seconds. Very annoying.
Does anyone know what's up with this thing?? My Philips receiver is freaking out because it has a connection for 2 seconds and then the sound goes out .

because coax, unlike optical, uses wire to transmit the signal, it must be properly shielded. try and wrap the ground wire around the data wire. this solved a coax problem with a custom AV cable i did. i found that optical connectors don't need any shielding.

I'm thinking about doing the component with analog audio ,my question is...

What are the switches , how would I wire them , os there liek an off setting if I use a video cable?

So I decided to hack into my Advanced A/V pack and add a 15pin dsub for VGA output. I snagged a few ground wires to make use of for the Blue signal and mode switching. My monitor supports sync on green (according to the ps2 linux list and also according to the manual) so I didn't need the sync splitter.

I've read a few tuts about making vga cables and now I'm a little confused about what mode bits I need to have grounded. L33's tut on the scene shows mode 1 and mode 3 grounded. The quick guide pictures in the first post of this thread shows modes 1, 2, and 3 connected in the block labeled VGA. Down under the pictures it says 1 and 3 for VGA and 1,2,3 for RGB SCART. The quick guide contradicts itself so I'm confused now.

Do I use 1,3 or 1,2,3 for my vga mode selection?

I currently have it set up with a toggle switch that toggles bit 3. Which switches the box from the Advanced A/V (svideo) to what the guide posted here calls VGA in one place and SCART in another. Well anyways.... It didn't work, my monitor reported no signal when I had 1,2,3 selected. At that point I just went to sleep. I'm at work right now so I can't try out using just 1,3 so if someone could clarify for me which mode to use I would appreciate it.

I suggest 2 + 3... that way you can get resolutions other than 640x480, such as real 480p, 720p, and 1080i, assuming your monitor supports those resolutions. 480p is 720x480, but VGA mode(1+3) only does 640x480.