anybody?

also, I may be retarded, but I can't find the two 0.1µF capacitors or the 680kO resistor anywhere. Where can I buy these?

And I have one more question: If I do the VGA mod on teh scart cable and then add a svideo mod soldered directly onto the motherboard and have the s-video going to my tv and the vga to my computer monitor, of course, would it still be possible to add a switch to switch between the vga output and the s-video output, even though the vga wouldn't be hardwired to the motherboard? Or do I have to hardwire both?

You can get all the parts you need from www.maplin.co.uk.

I have a v1.4 PAL XBOX, with Xecuter3, X3 vga bios, I also have the IND latest bios (in the config app I think it has a VGA option so if it does then I'll put that vga bios on another bank of the x3). My TV is PAL I think 'cos its a U.K TV, I read in this thread that you need to set the xbox to NTSC for VGA output...is that true & if so, will it display an image on my tv for changing back to PAL again (black & white would be OK as long as I can change it back again)?

My monitor is an Acer Model No: AL1716 s. I don't know if it supports Sync On Green or not but have ordered an LM1881N circuit anyway. If I wire the LM1881N into my homemade VGA Cable (when I make it), will it be OK if my monitor already supports Sync On Green?

I also read in this thread that you need to change to HD to turn on 480p mode in MSDash, (I don't have a HD Cable or a tv with any other inputs except the red white & yellow connectors), so If I wire all three switches to the XBOX A/V Connector on the motherboard, & select HD Mode (9&10:OFF, 11&12:ON, 13&14:ON) I should be able to set the xbox to 480p in MSDash with the instructions earlier in this thread (where you can press the right buttons without anything being displayed on the TV screen) right?

This is how I want to connect everything, it's using an old XBOX A/V Scart Gold Cable, & is the way that JaredC01's VGA Diagram is, instead of using L33's Diagram from the tutorials section (reason being that it has different wiring & I would prefer to have all the wires on the cable rather than having to get +5v & a ground from a USB port on my xbox (my xbox has usb ports). My VGA Diagram. Is this diagram correct?

Thanks in advance.

got the parts through to make a component cable - except the wire.

i've got spare cat5 lying around, would that be feasible to use or should i wait and get somethin more chunkier?

Well I am surprised that I got it working, took a whole 24 hours (literally, I haven't been to sleep today 'cos I've been doing the cable & audio outputs & testing settings for ntsc etc). The only problem is that it's green. I have a v1.4PAL XBOX changed to NTSC with the x3 bios. VGA Patch Enabled. 480p set in MSDash with switches 2&3 set (HD). The MSDash doesn't show up though, it loads (I can hear it through the headphones I added to the xbox), but on the monitor it says no signal input as soon as it starts to load. I have tried pushing in both thumbsticks & the triggers all at the same time, but that doesn't make any difference.

I'm not really bothered about the MSDash, I just want to fix the green screen wash, not sure how though. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks. Could it be the way the lm1881n is wired (jaredc01's way instead of l33's way)? Could it be the capacitors that I used (capacitors that I used)?. Could it be that my monitor already supports sync on green & so the lm1881n is making it green?

Are you shure you are using a VGA BIOS? Afaik the lm1881 doesn't affect the color. So desoldering it would not help. If you wanna have the MS dash in 480p make shure you have the most recent version. If you don't wanna go live for the update, a newer game like NFS:MW also does the trick.

Yep, X3 bios with vga patch enabled, & also ind-bios latest version with 480p enabled in the animation settings.
My MSDash has the Xbox Live option.

Hey guys. I did the vga mod in the first post. But it doesn't seem to be working. When i plug CRT's (Tryed two) into it, the CRT's act like nothings there. But i still have audio, and normal video if i unplug my Mchip, and turn the third switch off. I think its one of the two things i did somewhat wrong.

1. I used 1.0µF caps (Didn't see it intel after i made the board)
2. I was trying to use the stock AV cable as the switch one.

The chip i'm using is the X3CE with the VGA patch on (Witch sucks since i'll have to reflash the chip if i can't get this to work). and my box is a 1.0, with a conexant chip.

Should i try one before the other? They are both going to be a pain to fix, but if i can get away with only doing one, that would be great.

ok here is th problem..turn switch 2 and 3 on only.... this diagram is wrong when it says switch 1 and 3

I've seen the av pictures on the front page but does anyone have the link to the set of pictures which show all of the pictures put together as well as one for scart

is the pinout good for v1.6 with xcaliber chips? or a focus on a 1.4? what are the switches for to turn the sections of plugs on and off? im a dumbass

i want to be able to wire in component video and s-video. also toslink audio and digital coaxial audio. i will only use either one at a time.

i have a hd a/v pack that i pulled apart so i have the component plugs and toslink audio. now i just need to get s-video and digital coaxial audio plugs. i could try to pull one off an old ati video card, looks like it has like seven pins. or would the shack or frys have something like that. im ok at soldering, i installed a xerc2 no prob.

I'm not dead guys... Well, not yet anyway... I was working on a web based tutorial in the past, but the computer I was working on it on, crashed. I will most likely be working on a new site in the near future, stay tuned.

Alas........if only 720p worked correctly with the vga bios.

I've been waiting for that day forever, and likely will keep on waiting indefinently......should have switched my major from zoology to computer science, then maybe i'd be of some help to figure it out.

um this may sound noobey but um my cable aint like urs mines u can slide the plastic off and u see the gold
its not Offical but any way its the one with the svideo this is my view like urs is a card mine the plugs are soddered directly to the plug

I have an earphone jack, it has 3 connection points.
Where would I have to connect those? I guess its one for left, one right audio and one ground.
Is that so?

a DIP switch will work for the mode switches? or what is recommended that is small

Hi, i'm quite new to this board, but first of all i have to say outstanding work Jared!

But not, i feel a bit stupid to ask following question...

The schematic on the first page, does it mean/ show soldering-points on the motherboard or on a audio-video plug?
I read the first 20 pages, but i didn't find that simple information Maybe i just overlooked it.

those are the points on the bottom of the motherboard.

thx Navillos!

Are the pin-numbers on the motherboard the same as on the plug?

I'd also just seen this guide and was about to ask the exact same question. It really should say on the first page with the diagram exactly what points we're looking at

Perhaps you're also wondering if we can't find all these points on the end of a standard xbox cable. Then we could fit all the connections & switches we wanted in a break-out box & avoid opening / messing with the mother board etc.....

if you want a pinout of the plug google "textbook vga tutorial". its a badass tut

Where is the diagram for the scart rgb cable ?

Use the schematic for vga with scart connector . . what pinout ?

Thank you . . . By

I've added Component Video ports to my (PAL 1.4) Xbox. After messing with a wrong pinout, i found the wonderfull guide at the start of this topic. And behold, it worked! Using Enigma Video Switcher I enabled the multitude of HDTV resolutions, and all seems well.

Except for one small bit. Picture quality is a bit wavy. There is a disturbance coming through and it ain't pretty. The cable is fine, i checked that using my DVD player.

There are two things i can think of that cause my troubles:

1) Years ago I removed the metallic inner cover because it was in my way. Unfortunately I put it in the bin a long time ago.

2) The (looks like a flatcable only a bit thicker) cable is not good enough, or perhaps I should use more ground wires (i'm using only one now) between the lines.

Anyone got a thought?

both are problems... i think number 2 is your biggest problem..happened when i did the same on a ps2 with one ground... use all the proper ground points listed on this tutorial to fix that

Well, guess what, it worked! Picture seems much more stable now. Not perfect, but stable and clean from my seat and that's what matters!

if i were to desolder the a/v plug what size and type of wire would be best. i have all plugs from a hd a/v pack and i want to hardwire composite and component and vga in so i think it would be best to use the whole hole instead of a post. any suggestions?

I think I'm finally going to do this mod, but I have a question:

Can you output VGA and S-Video at the same time? If not, what about VGA and Component? anything at all? I know VGA and Component use the same grounds, 2 and 3, but I thought maybe the fact that you have to use modded bios for VGA might disable your ability to output component without going to different bios.

no i dont think u can output 2 different modes at the same time. This is because all the switches are in different positions for each mode.

BTW great mod jared i just got my LM1881N ready to test it out

this isn't true because they're in the same spot for VGA and Component, 2 and 3, despite the fact that many guides say its actually 1 and 3....The only reason I think it MIGHT not be able to output both at once is because you have to use special bios for VGA, and I thought this might cancel out the ability for component. Does anybody know for sure? Pimpmaul69 perhaps??

Ok soz for the wrong info.

So your acually saying for the VGA mode, that instead of switch 1 (which shorts out pins 9 and 10) you should instead have switch 2 (pins 11 and 12).

Just clarifying: So instead of the guide saying the switch settings for VGA are 1 + 3 it should be 2 + 3.

Can anybody please confirm that i have this right please.

If you look about half way down on page 41 i think of htis tutorial, pimpmaul69 states that this is the case, and he seems to know what he's talking about better than anybody else around here.

so would a vga to component video and ms hd av pack work for vga? as well as the bios. duh
yes my moniter is sync on green

what do you mean? you have to build your own VGA cable and use special VGA bios, or just use standard bios and buy something like the X2VGA, which does convert from component to VGA

well what i mean is theres a cable that goes from vga to component, i was asking would that work if i used a hd av pack with it and the vga bios. because the one you make has the same wiring as a hd av pack, it can be used for the vga

thanks for this tut jaradc01 been wanting to play my xbox on my pc monitor.

dont know if this has been answerd but i got a few questions about the vga cable
1) does the lm1881n need programing or is it plug and play? **answered the chip is called Video Sync Separator**
2)what 0.1uf cap should i use? voltage etc etc
3)the bios i need, what do i do with it does it go in the xbox or flashed on the chip?
i presume its avalible form the same place as all the rest of the xbox goodies

i have a v1.6 with slayers installer.

thanks in advance to anyone who can help!!!!

Hope these questions haven't been raised before in this thread but scanned through it as best as a could.
I have a 1.2 where i added coax out following this: http://www.xbox-scene.com/articles/digital-output.php
I now also bought a 1.6 as spare and want to add a coaxial out as well. What i find strange is that the pins described in this thread are different from http://www.xbox-scene.com/articles/digital-output.php?
Few questions:

If i use pins described in this thread, what pin needs ground to allow coax out both when standard AV is used and when a purchased HDTV-cable is used? I found this a bit unclear in the diagram.

Does the coaxial - need shielding from metalshield?

*Edit*
I do see the switches so i would just want to clarify that i don't want a switch between different modes.

vga bioses are not compatible with 1.6 xboxes, sorry.

Do I need vga bios for component output?

Thanks

You do NOT need a vga bios for component video output.

What is all that stuff being wired to? Is those handmade circuit boards or is that inside the Xbox? I need some info on this asap. Thanks.

if you're talkinga bout the lm1881n (sync separator) its something you buy online. If you're referring to the pins on the diagrams at the beginning, thats the bottomside of the xbox motherboard underneath the AV plug. You can also achieve the same thing wiring into the AV cable, there's another diagram in the tutorials that shows which pins are which on that.

So, is that a seperate little board under the A/V? Or is that just a cut-out of the A/V section underneath the Mobo?

its just a cut out. The only time you'll find a secondary board with the xbox is on the v1.0 which had the daughterboard for the controllerports, which is nowhere near this part

Thanks for the info.

hi guys, i'm french and I apologize for my bad english

I tried to make the modifications to output VGA on my xbox 1.4 with Focus chip softmoded.
My cable is built with LM1881n.

I try to use the nkpatcher to output RGsB on YUV but when i connect my xbox to any monitors, they find a signal but no video. Sometimes, I could see one or two seconds of my dashboard until it disapears

I've never seen the blob, and I don't know what bios to use instead of the nkpatcher. I tried the yoshihiro for focus one, i tried the ind for connexant (but it did not work ) , I tried to patch a m8+_EF with the VGA patcher...

So I don't know what to do and I need help

thanks for help

hey hey,
I found on this tutorial http://www.360mods.net/News/article/sid=37.html , that a 340kohm 1% will give me a 30kHz Hsync.

Do you think it could solve my problem?

I would like to add that the optical transmitters from phat ps2's work fine for adding optical out. My model was specifically a SCPH-30003 but i doubt it matters.

Don't know if it's already been mentioned but its a cheap solution if you have a broken ps2, rather than buying a new Toslink.

It sounds like your problem amounts to tweaking the resistor values. It's impossible to say for sure, but a 340k ohm resistor may solve your problem. You can try any resistor value between 340k to 680k.