does it read ALL DVD+R and DVD-R or only the good ones?????

There are only a few minor differences in the circuitry. Some are related to the different layout caused by the "yellow wires" connector vs. the standard PC power connection, and some appear to be related to the other yellow wires signals.


Nope. Same laser.

No, TP126 is only marked on the 8163B. Sorry for any confusion there.


I couldn't make out what it says. On my drive's board the writing is at right angles to how it appears on your board. Maybe we just have different revisions of the board.


OK. I'll check mine at some point.


A couple of things. Firstly I hadn't picked up on the fact that you're using a 8162B not an 8163B. That probably explains the difference between the boards.
As to this "Checking" and "Init" business: they are not mutally exclusive. You shouldn't just get one or the other, but FIRST one (Init) and THEN the other (Checking). If any of this relates to the ready point (and I'm not at all convinced that it does), I would have to guess that "Checking" appears when it has detected the presence of a disc.


And what happens if you don't do this? Sorry, but I'm not sure how this information is supposed to help. Either my ready point is correct after all, or the ready point is not required for any of this stuff to work properly.


I'll have to check it later, but I'm pretty sure that you've got LDIN and LDOUT the wrong way around here (unless the 62 and 63 are different in this area).


So pin 3 is the same as your LDIN (which I think is actually LDOUT) inverted and pin4 is the same as your LDOUT. Are the Xbox signals active high or active low? I thought they were active low, but if that's true these signals seem a bit screwy to me.


What do you mean by "working"? What tests are you doing?


OK. So this signal at least seems to be active high.

according to his last post before this one of yours, he's using an 8162B, not the 8163B (which is what I am using).

Yes, that's right. You can probably even use it without the wiring modifications, but you'd need to use the drive's built-in eject button instead of the Xbox's eject button.

You are entitled to your opinions, of course, but perhaps you could keep them to yourself until you come up with a better solution. So far the op-amp is actually the cleanest and simplest solution. As has been stated repeatedly before, the problem we have is NOT purely a logic issue.


Indeed it could, and has -- I did do it this way at one point, in fact I originally suggested this way back in one of my earliest postings to this thread. So far the only device with spec's that meet the challenge requires pullup resistors on its outputs (open-collector ouputs), making it messier than the op-amp solution. It might be technically more "correct" or "pure", but it's more of a pain and a fiddle and the op-amp solution works just as well.

What you suggested using before was a "hex inverter" which is different than an inverting buffer. A proper inverting buffer will pull up the 3-point-whatever to a solid 5V and invert without the need for pull up resistors. It's a single chip with no other components needed....

You asked me to keep my opinions to myself until I had a better suggestion.. well I gave you a better suggestion, just because I haven't had a chance to physically PROVE it doesn't mean it wont work or that it's not a good solution.

Since only a very few people have one of these up and running, I would think that very little testing has been done. I can tell you that it reads TDK DVD-R discs OK, but that's all I've tried in mine so far. As for "only the good ones", past experience would suggest that it's just as likely to be cheap media that works.

Nice nit-picking. How about actually giving us something useable instead of trying to show off what a smart-ass you can be? While we're on the subject, if you're going to have that crap about spell-checking in your signature, you'd better spell-check your own postings, eh? ("differet")


Great. Where can we get one? What is the part number or whatever? Where are some data sheets?


It doesn't mean it WILL work either, and you haven't give us a COMPLETE better suggestion, just a fairly vague idea with no specifics that anyone can actually use.

pardon me for trying to help out

What help? All you've done so far is tell us we're doing it wrong and that we should use an inverting buffer. Not very helpful in my book. (still not spell-checking? -- "tying")

Let's end the back and forth bickering and keep this a technical discussion.

I'm apparently helpless, because I'm going around in circles confusing myself & everyone. I bought the drive from newegg, and is the GDR-8163B.




Flipping the board over, and looking from the side there is a date/and number, that says:
JD4 (GDR-8163B)
2004/02-02



Using my magnifying glass, and looking closely at the backside of the board, you can see that the blue point is actually TP126, directly to the left of TP129. (super closeup)
.

Reference, back side of board:

SO let me see if i have this right?

Flash the PC Drive with the LG Xbox DVD drive Firmware (just like 616t)?
Just solder the 4 wires to the 4 points on the mainboard of the DVD drive(just like samsung 616t)?
Solder the other ends to thre respective pins on the pinheader so you can plug the yellow cable into it?
Thats it im read to go?
It reads originals?
NO Motor reversing?

{{DEMON}}

theres a bit of inverting going on i think. i think it'd be easier till one of them writes a tut on exactly what to do

If you can't find the "Ready" using the approach I suggest, you are not doing it right or don't understand digital circuits. The latter seems to be more likely since you persist in using an OpAmp for a digital circuit. Perhaps you need to review what I did originally for the 616T on xboxhacker.net to understand the consequences of not using the correct ready signal.

Perhaps you do not know how to read a datasheet.
74HC14 Datasheet
Specifically (Page 2 VT+)

I really don't like your attitude. From what you have posted so far you have minimal, at best, hardware engineering skills. Your mod is more of a kludge than it needs to be since you do not understand basic electronics. Others try to help, and you ridicule. Wow, you flashed the firmware from an XBOX original drive to a PC drive!! Nobody ever thought of that before

Maybe you think it's "good enough" and "nobody cares", but these are just excuses for poor engineering.

Another xbox with LG drive:

Prod. date: ? januari 2005
Serial: 2xxxxxx 50505
Version: v1.6b (Hynix ram)
Bought in: EU (Netherlands)

A quick look shows an even better choice here:

74HCT14

Note on page 11, VT+ is only 2.1 volts!
They are only $0.30 at Mouser.
The HC14 (not HCT) can become borderline if the 5V supply voltage is high and the 3.3 is a little low. The HC14 would work if powered up through a diode, reducing it's VCC by .6volts. The HCT is a better choice since than the HC or the OpAmp, it will meet all worst case situations, and requires NO external parts.

From your post it is clear that you don't understand electronics. The signal comming from the read, tray-in, tray-out, and eject points are not digital. There is no data being digitally transmitted through these signals. These signals only put out either positive voltage or 0 volts. Using an OP AMP on this circuit makes perfect sence. We have not explored every option, but the OP AMP is clearly one of the best ideas. If you can think of something that is smaller or simpler, name it.

By the way, Wenid didn't just stick the xbox lg 8050l into his computer and extract the firmware like you can simply do with the sd-616t. He had to hardwire a flash memory extractor onto the firmware chip and extract it. This cost him some $ and took a few hours. So, show some respect people, without wenid's help we wouldn't even be talking about this stuff. If you have a better idea for the signal circuitry, post it, try it, and we will find the best option soon. DON'T go calling people stupid or flaming them for posting their idea, simply tell them why you don't think it is the best idea (harder, more complex, cost, functionallity, ect.)



P.S. I have confirmed that the firmware flasher is working on all drives tested so far.

P.P.S. For those who have received the firmware flasher from me, please send me a pm/email with your results, as well as your drives ROM VERS and manufacturing date.

Am I correct by just flashing this drive you can use it as a replacement for a Xbox.. the only thing that will not work is the eject function from the xbox eject button.. but it will work fine ejecting from the drive itself? If this is true.. Then this may be the solution I was looking for, for a HTPC case mod?

Please let me know if this is correct? and by the way great work everyone!

How can you EVEN SAY that the signals are NOT DIGITAL!!!!
And you say "I" don't understand electronics!!!
You say yourself that the signals only put out positive voltage or 0 volts!
That is the DEFINITION of digital signaling (1 or 0). Do you have ANY education on this topic?

You say there is "NO DATA" being sent? What do you think those LOGIC LEVELS represent!! Answer: They are digital signals (bits) conveying the data of Tray Status and Ready to the control microprocessor. OK they are only 2 or 3 bits, but they sure ARE digital data. If they weren't how could the control processor read them without performing (unnecessary) AtoD conversion?

An OpAmp does not make "perfect sence".
It's just the only chip YOU know about.

BTW: I just did "Name It"! 74HCT14!!

At least one "developer" here has stated "keep it to yourself". Now YOU challenge MY technical ability. It seems to me you two guys just don't want anyone playing in your sandbox. There were initially plenty of people flashing the 605 firmware into the 615T, but only one solved the hardware problem and got it to work properly! ME
You can either keep an open mind or bury your head in the sand!

This may be a noob post, and I'm sorry but I don't have time to read close to 30 pages of this thread, my question is simple and i'm sure one of you guys can easily answer it. is all this wiring needed or just desireable, i mean once the drive has been flashed could i put it in to the xbox and use a power splitter to supply power to the drive and use the drives stock eject buttons rather than the xbox eject button?

Ok, here is the deal, we only want your help if you are willing to stop being a total ass hole. I don't give a rats ass about what you have done. And finding a few signals on a 616t isn't that tough, especially considering 3 of the 4 signals were clearly labeled, and they were all perfect to begin with. If you want to help stop flamming everyone and post helpful info without any bs attached to it. Now, the question is whey is the OP AMP bad? If it puts out the proper voltage at the proper times it would seem to be working exactly as we want it to. If your solution will work better in any way, post why it would work better, how it would work better, and compair the price and availability at radio shack.

I have an open mind, but you haven't said much except flamming. Lets hear more about this part of yours, and less of the worthless bs. Lets work together, and do like mommy said "If you don't have anything good to say, don't say anything at all."

Here are most important things to keep in mind when making the circuit.
1. Small
2. Cheap
3. Simple
4. Works (doesn't matter how it works, just that it works correctly 100% of the time)
5. All parts available at Radio Shack or similar

You are the a** hole my friend!
I'm not flaming everyone, I'm just responding to self righteous "know it alls" who by thier very own posts, prove they don't know shi* about hardware design.
Maybe YOU and Wenid don't want my help, but I doubt you speak for everyone when you tell me what the "deal" is gonna be here. All you have done is flash the drive, the easy part, BFD! Everybody got that far on the 615. If you and your sidekick both quit right now, the hack WILL survive without you.

You attack me for not knowing what I am talking about, I explain where YOU are wrong, ('Not digital signals', LMAO), and you are SILENT on that topic. Instead you choose to flame me and trivialize MY PROVEN accomplishment. Thats all you CAN do because YOU WERE WRONG!!

If you can't figure out how to invert a signal with one chip and no external parts, I will explain it to you. If you think an OpAmp with external resistors is a cleaner, smaller, more dependable design use it. If you do, why not explain why or STFU? When you made this post, you already had my part number, and my post that no other parts are required. So why don't/didn't you tell ME why I am wrong again!

Now without sarcasm I ask you:
Do you need me to outline how to use the 74HCT14 or the 74HCT04?
Do you need assistance to find the "ready" point?

Can people here start actually listening to what others are saying instead of thinking that any suggestion other than what they're currently doing is personal insult? Seriously!

I posted, gave my props to all those who put in hard work (wenid included)

Then I though I might help out by starting a discussion on the inverting issue and I was completely dumped on by wenid as if I just killed his first born or something.(having read though this whole thread he's treated most everyone else the same way at one point or another, you included LenteSubigo)

I see Tiros TRYING to do the same thing and getting the same response.

You should listen to him and take what he's saying as a FRIENDLY SUGGESTION or CONSTRUCTIVE CRITICISM. Just because he's offering an alternative doesn't mean he's trying to insult you... he's trying to help.

He is completely correct in saying that the ready signal is in fact digital, sure it's an extremely low bandwidth digital signal, but digital none the less. There are many many reasons deeply rooted in electrical engineering on why using something like an op-amp in a digital circuit can be a bad idea. What is so difficult about humoring a suggestion from a knowledgeable source? We shouldn't have to provide you with an education every time we make a suggestion. If you're curious as to why we're making a suggestion... Just ask...

If you would like some reasons on why an op amp is not desirable in a digital circuit it mostly boils down to dependability. Unless you're working with very accurate values as in highly accurate resistors and a highly accurate input voltage (which we don't know if we are or not) the results from the op-amp can vary from setup to setup or even with temperature. This means that you might get 4.9V out of it and someone else might get 5.2 that extra voltage or lack of voltage over time could be damaging to the Xbox, and where no one really knows how susceptible the Xbox is to those sort of things it's probably best to avoid it. Also Op-amps (especially slow cheap ones) being analog in nature tend to swing while moving high to low as opposed to the clean step you get with digital logic, resulting in a floating voltage area during the switch. In most cases this will be quick enough that it wont really matter but we don't really know how the Xbox will deal with this sort of thing. If the response time is quick enough it could potentially cause it "bounce" between reading it high and low which can be extremely damaging. Finally I've found op-amps to be particularly unpredictable in terms of failures, wiring it incorrectly or having something attached to it fail and you could find it cooking it self or whatever it's attached to, I've had several op-amp projects go up in smoke when placing a wire or resistor in the wrong place.

Digital logic on the other hand is typically difficult to mess up and provides much cleaner signals. I can respect the creativity with using an op-amp in this fashion but I certainly wouldn't use it in my Xbox.

Well said Twisted...

I think everyone is doing an amazing job, although there's some bickering, doesn't that just fire you all up to better your ideas? Anyway great work everyone, you're all true assets to the scene. Can't wait for the full tut.

If you really want a responce on the digital issue I can make one. I don't want to switch this thread into a debate thread, I want to get on with the work in a reasonable way. I am not a dumb ass, and I am trying not to be an asshole. I am simply saying that wiring up a 616t is not difficult when compaired to making a circuit to allow the proper outputs on a 8163b. I want everyone to post their ideas, but when you post your idea, don't just give us a part number, give us a reason why your circuit may be better then the other circuits that we are trying(price, size, availability, simplicity, ect). How is it better? And don't attack other solutions. There is nothing wrong with using an OP AMP, if the outputs of then OP AMP are what we need, there is no reason to attack it.

Do you need me to outline how to use the 74HCT14 or the 74HCT04?
Do you need assistance to find the "ready" point?

For your first question, no, but why do you think it is a better choice than the OP AMP:
Does it require less wires?
Is it smaller or cheaper?
Can it perform both of the operations we need it to? (inverting and amplifying)
What makes it a better solution?

For your second question, if you think you can find a better ready point than wenid then, yes we would like you to help us find the better ready point.



So, post your circuit ideas, but include some more info than just a part number. Why is it better?


As to wenid, he isn't always the most politicly correct, and purposefully kind as he could be. I remember the responce you are refering to (where is wan't so kind to me.) But, he is doing alot of hard work, and spending his own money ($100's) to help us out. With this knowledge, I am willing to overlook a few minorly unkind comments, and give him the respect that is due. The fact is that this project would never have gotten this far without him extracting the firmware through the use of expensive hardware. There are 3 partys that have gotten this project to the point it is at now: Myself(LenteSubigo), Wenid, and a 3rd party who wants to remain anonymous.

Lets make sure we have the best signal points, and then the best circuit to achieve the correct signals.

I apologize to anyone who was offended by me in the past, including someone who pm'd me when I was in a bad mood, and tiros, who I called an asshole. I just want to put all the attacks aside and only post constructivly.

Hi
I have flashed my unit GDR-8163B whit the file GDR-8050L0012.EXE my unit is now 8050L. but is possible returns to
GDR-8163B? I have tried the file GDR-8163B0L23.exe but ever say "this program can't be used for the selected device."
Thanks
bye

Thank You Twisted!
See Len, it's like this, your idea wasn't under "attack". That's where your gettin' jammed up. If you and wenid hadn't jumped to defend something you don't really understand, this whole nastiness would have been avoided.
wenid doesn't understand
lente doesn't understand

More to the point:
The 74HCT14 or 74HCT04 will require less wires.
It is a common part that costs less than $1.00
It will require no resistors.
It will consistantly output the correct voltage levels for the Xbox.
The OpAmp will have a lower VOH than the either part.
The OpAmp will have a higher VOL than either part.
Note:The original developer said his VOL was 1.2V but seemed to work. Not good!
Biasing the OpAmp at 1/2 VCC will result in a threshold voltage higher than either part.
Either part meets all worst case I/O thresholds better than the OpAmp.
There will be less support since all DIGITAL circuits behave the same.

Unused outputs need no connection.
For 100% safety unused inputs can be tied to VCC or GND thru a busswire running along the bottom of the chip. Just bend the unused input pins under the chip and solder to the bus wire.

Lente said:
"If you really want a responce on the digital issue I can make one. "
Please do, I have an open mind

What drives have you tested so far? I'll be getting 3 GDR-8163b drives in the mail soon from newegg.


I'll PM you my results, but I didn't get the flasher from you, but I'm guessing it's the same one I got of xbins.

Yes, the flasher is now on xbins. I had sent it in for submission, but I hadn't been responded to. They must have just added it today.

Drives tested on:
I don't have any info, I have asked 3 people who received the firmware, but they never responded with drive info. So, all I know is that 3 out of 3 have found it to work.

Before you flash your drive:
Remember, that we haven't created a flashing program to flash back to 8163b, and the original program to flash 8163b firmware doesn't work on a drive with the 8050l firmware. So, at this time, once your drive is flashed with 8050l firmware, their is no known software method to flash it again. So it will be stuck with 8050l firmware.

I had this discussion on page 24 of this tread with Wenid, as you can see of the above quote he could't get the part as easely at that time, thats reason enough i think to think of something else(op-amps)
On page 23 there's even a scematic he made that almost fits the bill for the 74HCT04
(And yes i know,if i had more time the 74HCT04 would be up and running here)

We could probably get that lg spinning inside an xbox using nano technoligy or tubes out of an old radio but that's not the point, lets make 2 complete guides, tested and working, the builder himself/herself can pick one.

Everyone is doing a great job at pulling resources towards this, and if everything goes according to plan we'll al have lg drives working soon, thats the point of al of this.

Maby we'll even hack the firmware to get it to read cd-r's, i'm sure that a certain somebody can make this work.

The "acid test" for the 616 was to:
1) Power up xbox with xbox eject button, tray is now open.
Press the "off" button. The tray closes THEN the xbox powers off.
2) An original game can start normally, open or closed.

Please post results of this test

I havn't given up yet.
I started over, to verify all my connections, all my traces.

LG dvdrom:
LDin to GND = 0 ohms completely open; otherwise infinite
LDout to GND = 0 ohms when tray is closed & laser is in read position. Otherwise infinite.
Eject to GND = 0 ohms when pressing Eject button.

Powered up, turned on, nothing connected.
LDin
closed=0
opening=0
open=3.3vdc

LDout
closed=0
opening=3.3vdc
open=3.3vdc

HFMDRY no dvd-r in tray
closed=0
opening=0
open=0

HFMDRY Slayer's dvd-r in tray (ritek)
closed=5vdc
opening=0
open=0

NOTE: HFMDRY was jumpin a bit around 0 anywhere to 1.5vdc during init, even when there was no dvd-r in the tray.

Does this seem right to you?

Hi everybody.

I'm a french xbox user, and i come from the french site www.gueux.be

I'm trying to do a test for the Hitachi-LG flashing firmware, but i'm asking me some questions.

Do i have only to put my f*cking Hitachi in my PC, and run the flashing program with the .bin firmware? If it's only that, thanks you a lot, i'll do this as soon i could.

But if no, could you say to me... 'cause I don't understand everything here and i don't have so much time u see !

So... greats thanks and see you soon.

PS : Do anyone flash his Hitachi here? Does it works? Does it read original games?

Thanks. ++

Just download the 8050l firmware flasher off of xbins. It has both the flashing utility, and the actual firmware built into one file. Install the 8163b into your pc, and then run the program in windows. Easy as that.

hey Lente does the motor have to be rotated 180 degrees like the sammy drive did or is it just the software modification... if its just the firmware upgrade that would be sweet.. thank you for taking the time to figure this out for us... i cant get my hl drive to properly rip backup games to my harddrive ... it rips them using dvd2xbox or complex 1.60 but when i go to execute the game it freezes... if i install the pc drive do you think i will still have the same problem? any type of feedback would be greatly appreciated my friend... Shearpleasure

Hi. It's so fine ! Who tryed to flash his Hitachi here? If anyone could confirm me it works, i'll flash mine tomorrow.

Thanks a lot english people


Byeee

LenteSubigo has flashed his drive and it's working just fine. I know there is another person that did it but I forgot his name.

Since you people persist in telling me I don't know what I'm doing and make no useful contributions yourselves, I've decided to stop wasting my time posting to this forum. I may make some further replies today (because I do have a little spare time today), but that's it. I will continue to work on this project for my own reasons and may continue to read the forum, but since only two or three postings so far have actually moved my work forward, I may not bother.


The reasons for using an op-amp have been stated repeatedly. If one of you purists can come up with something REAL that is simpler, cleaner and WORKS, fine. So far no-one has.


I'm quite familiar with 616Ts, thanks. I've modded literally dozens of them. Last time I looked, much of that stuff on xboxhacker was inaccessible, or at least diffcult to access. Why not explain yourself here?


I can read fine. This datasheet is not the one I used as reference, so clearly the Fairchild part's specs differ from the Texas Instruments part's. If this is true, then people will have to make sure they buy the correct make of 74HC14, which may (or may not) be more trouble that it's worth.
(The datasheet I referred to can be found at http://www1.jaycar.com.au/products_uploaded/ZC4821.pdf)


Well bad luck. Do you really think you've got any right to complain about MY attitude after the way YOU've carried on here?


So what? I never claimed to be the world's leading expert (in fact just the opposite), but at least I'm actually doing something, which is more than can be said for just about anyone else. I was following this thread for a couple of months, watching and waiting to see if any progress would be made with the firmware. Nothing happened until I was finally in a position to spend some time and money on it myself and then I had a working drive up and running within a week or two.


So offer a REAL alternative. My mod consists of one chip and two resistors. It's simple enough for people even more ignorant than me to do. That's all I am aiming at. If you've got something better fine. I don't see it here anywhere yet.


What I get offended at is not their help but their ridiculing MY efforts, just like you're doing here, with this stuck-up, holier-than-thou attitude.


Idiot. What I did was connect 31 tiny little wires to 31 tiny little spots on the 8050L circuit board, many of which are right on top of each other, hook it up to the IDE Flasher I bought, figure out how to get it talking to my PC, read the firmware off the flash ROM, then repeat the 31 wire process again on the 8163B to write the firmware to that drive. As I stated before, this required a substantial investment of time and money on my part. I then freely donated the results of my work to this community. In return I get crap like this from people like you who just want to make themselves look good by coming in and telling me I'm doing it all wrong, but without offering a useable alternative.


I'm not trying to be a great engineer. I don't have the time. That's one reason for publicising what I have done -- so people who do have the time and knowledge can come up with something better if they feel that way inclined. I don't see how that requires them to put down my efforts, however.

The file, GDR-8163B0L23.exe contains firmware for Retail Version ...

it will not work on OEM ...

sooner or later, someone will release a firmware for the oem version ...

That's exactly what I was trying to do!
My original post #382 did not put anyone down. It was a sincere, nonsarcastic, suggestion.
You yourself requested help on the OpAamp circuit, explaining that you didn't really understand it. You stated that VOL was 1.2 but still "Seemed to work"
I tried to explain the benifits of HCT in post #429. Do you need a diagram?
HCT will not be manufacturer dependent.

It was only after Lente and yourself PERCEIVED this as an attack, that things got ugly. There is no shame in using another part, It does not detract from the great work you have done so far. I was actually suprised to see the outlashing over a mere suggestion.

Now this is a REAL attack:
Your design is marginal and will not work consistantly.
There is an easy answer. You have been presented with details on the significant electrical performance benefit of HCT, the problems with the OpAmp, and you choose to ignore/argue. Do it right or don't do it.
You can quit now or finish the project. Do whatever YOU want.
Like I said before, if you quit now the hack WILL survive.
Thanks for your contributions so far.

the regular lg drive works perfect, besides not being able to read cd-r.

The more i think about this....
The existing original firmware must make use of the same tray in/out signals for normal PC drive operation. The control microprocessor reads these lines during normal operation. They are connected directly to I/O line on control CPU. So the question is, after you flash XFW, how can the xbox firmware understand the inverted position of these switches? I.E. after you flash with the XBOX firmware, the drive becomes an XBOX drive, but the CPU will still see the wrong polarity of the tray signal since it is running on PC drive. If the signal is truly inverted between the two drives, the FW should not work at all.

Since the drive seems to function correctly with either FW, the internal signals that the control micro sees must have the same polarity between the two drives. This leads me to believe that there may well exist signals internal to the drive (@the control mpu, not at the switch contacts) that will be of the same, correct polarity of the original drive. Tapping into these signals directly, would eliminate the need for ANY external logic.

How to find them and "ready"?
Trace the original yellow xbox drive wire signals directly to the CPU I/O pin where they are connected. Maybe they are directly connected to switch, but keep following circuit to the control CPU. The polarity has to be right at that point or control CPU will be confused. Connect to same pin on CPU after flashing. The "ready" signal is an OUTPUT from the control CPU, so once the drive is flashed, that CPU pin WILL become a "ready" signal, even it it was not before.

I'm still looking for the ready point.
Thanks to arron1017, I used some images to help me since I don't have a LG 1050L dvdrom.





Then manupulating the images with a transparent one on top, it looks like ready is pin 14? 15? 16? counting (from one) upwards from the bottom right corner. Can ne1 confirm this?

i just flashed mine and it works great. i was wondering if anyone has the diagram to attach the yellow cable. I'm using a "Y" Cable. Thanks

For all of you who have done the mod to the drive, which chip did you all end up using. I just got in some op amps as Wenid left the forum. So now I am going to go to rat shack and mouser.com and see what I can find.

And also did you use the ready coming out of the CPU? I haven't had a chance to get elbow deep, but got the drive, (some) chips, and now just time.

Wenid sorry to see you go man, you were doing an awesome job.

HL drives are brand new and made by Hitachi and LG hence the name HL. They typically read DVD-R, DVD-RW, DVD+R, DVD+RW, CD-RW, and maybe CD-R if you are lucky. These drives are compatible in all XBoxes to date. HL's have a speed of about 16x.

http://www.xbox-linux.org/Talk:Xbox_Linux_...D_Burning_HOWTO

According to this site they are 16x. Is this true?

i just bought and flashed one of these drives.......worked like a charm

Well its ALL GOOD for me.

1. I bought a LG GDR-8163B Drive from NewEgg.com $25 total.
2. Installed the drive in my PC and flashed it with the EXE (bios included).
3. Plugged it into my XBOX (used a Y molex for temporary)
4. It works all good. I just press the old drive EJECT at the same time
I press the NEW drive EJECT to swap discs..
I needed this cuz my original Xbox drive got Dirty Disc too much, I was
sick of it.

NOTE : If it isnt wired in properly (like stated above) the only way to
get it to work properly is to shut off the xbox with the disc in it and turn
it back on to boot. Otherwise U can press eject on both drives if U still
have your old one in an plugged up to the yellow wires like usual.
The only reason I did this was to temporarily check until I have time to
solder in the yellow wires.