I did some googleing, looks like someone with commersial interests already cracked the
nut: "http://www.hardstore.com/default.asp?idA=70" Can´t say for sure tough, since i don´t speak italian..

Nope, they are just trtying to sell the original black ones, no mention of cdr support AFTER flashing

It will probably be impossible to use an am2(nm102000) disasembler on the am3 set would it?, the problem being that the am3 seris is 32bit compaired to the 16 bits of the am2 series.
8051 is an 8 bit processor.....

The problem is finding a nm103 disassembler that runs on windows(at least that's it for me)

Maby someone with linux can run binutils on both firmwares and upload it to xbins, that would be a great help!!!

Obviously you don't know shit from apple butter about how to fix this problem.

cheers,
Tiros

Already did that before my post

Just glancing at the disassembly, there are several obvious, serious problems with it being 8051 code. Why don't you take another look and report back your findings. If anyone else knows why it can't be 8051, make a reply.

I'm pretty sure that it is scrambled...
Look at the filler... in the DLD we have a sequence of
0x08 0x99 0x9B 0x9F
in the plain rom image it's all filled with 0xFF

The decripted version has some plain text string embedded (Eg: HL-DT-STDVD-ROM
at positions 0x20BA, 0x6000, 0x3c8ac)



You're right... I've never said that it's 8051 or someother proc.... I've said that any mn103 disassembler should work onto PLAIN descrambled firmware image...
And when I say MN103 I mean Panasonic MN103 series or if you prefer Matsushita MN103 or Matsushita AM33 that are in fact the same 32 bit processor !

I looked at this firmware some time ago... and I like collect infos before speaking....

You're also right when you speak in terms of hexediting... IMHO hexediting would not help in this case....


bump...

See ya
Janniz

Everyone here knows that you have nothing useful to contribute Tiros, you prove time and time again that you are nothing more than a conceited hypocrite blessed with the mental maturity of a pre-schooler.

Why don't you find somewhere far away to wallow in your own self pity. Are you having marital troubles again?

I will be very surprised the cpu is an 8051 core

Lets see, so far your contribution to this thread has been nothing more than one "fanboy" post where you try to stick your head up wenids ass, and some completely useless decimal to hex conversions that any retard with a calculator could do. I think everyone here knows that YOU have nothing usefull to contribute. Why don't you post something technical and prove me wrong.
I won't hold my breath

@jannz
Sorry, my whole post was not directed toward you, I was trying to clear up some misconceptions that some others are having.
Since the DLD is created by copying the RAW binary data directly into the file, and only correcting a checksum, it is not decrypted by the flaser.

All right so it's 32 bit code - I'm a liltte out of my league with this but willing to dig into it.

This link http://pioneerdvd.rpc1.org/disWin32.zip also has a matsushita 102000 disassembler for windows - would that be of any use?

Anybody wanna buy a H-L drive? Click Here!

Everyone who has not posted at all has contibuted to this thread far more that anything you have spewed out.

FYI, I am a qualified Computer Systems Engineer with 3 years industry experience and can therefor quite easily see how much shit you have been spinning. the difference between you and me is that you don't know when to hold your tongue and cease insulting people.

WOW!
Your "qualified"!! By who, to do what? By wenid? To give blow jobs?
That must make you an extremely valuable asset to your employer.
You actually have 3 whole years experience???!!!! Do you know what a "greenhorn" is?
You don't seem to be progressing too well. Maybe you are in the wrong field, have you considered McDonalds?

If you know so much, why is your reply so vague?
If you know so much, why don't you explain the "shit" I have been "spinning"? (whatever that means)
If you know so much, why don't you tell us what to do with the hex values you brilliantly converted from decimal?
If you know so much, why can't you contribute even one TECHNICAL point to this thread?

There are plenty of other differences between you and me, but holding your tounge is not one of them. I guess you forgot about your own advice when you chose to stick your nose in my argument with wenid:
Bourke provoke Tiros

I have only responded in this manner to those who provoke me.

My God, can we just get back to firmware hacking / fixing bugs in the layout... I am looking forward to a 16x CDR reading HL-DT drive, can we just get back to the original conversation.

@ TKramka
im afraid that we obviously cant and will never be able to.

This morning I pulled my 8050L apart again to determine where pin6 & 8 go (on the AN22023 mediatek chip).



on the 8050L, for the AN22023:
pin6 === pin 9 === ground
pin8 === pin 41 == TP515 (also goes to uC33 and uC16)

Looking at the 8163b, for the AN22023:
pin 41 === TP515 fortunately, same nomenclature as 8050L.

I haven't cut my traces yet, but I'm going to soon. With Tiros' suggestions, this is what I'm going to attempt:

8163b:
A. pin6 (dvd power shown below) ==== 1kohm ==== TP126 PINK READY
B. cut TP126 trace, side that leads to AN22023, obviously
C. solder pin 6 (AN22023) to ground.
D. pin5 (dvd power shown below) ==== 1kohm ==== TP128 ORANGE TRAY_OUT
E. cut TP128 trace, side that leads to AN22023
F. solder pin 8 (AN22023) to TP515.
G. pin 4 (dvd power shown below) === EJECT
H. pin 7 (dvd power shown below) === 1kohm ==== TP055 RED TRAY_IN



ABOVE PIC shows:
TP126 PINK READY
TP128 ORANGE TRAY_OUT
TP055 RED TRAY_IN



I just had another crazy idea, that I'd like to try, but I doubt it would work. The idea is to short LDCD to LDDV, possibly telling the drive that when you load a cd-R, it may fool the drive into thinking that there is a dvd inside. Well, its just a thought...

But wouldn't that make it use a DVD laser, and we would wind up with a DVD drive as good as a Thomson, which uses the same design.

@true
Are you sure 6=9=GND?
On the 8050 pix, 6 is shorted to 9, but I thought this node was driven by Uc.47

I don't have 8050 but for 8163 this is what I found:
Uc.50=22023.6
Uc.63=R/C/22023.7
Uc.49=22023.8
Uc.47=22023.9

Problem #1:
@true: pin6 === pin 9 === ground??
I cut Uc.49 and Uc.50 from the chip.
Connected jumper from 22023.6 to 22023.9, leaving Uc.47 to drive this node.
Are you saying that for 8050 Uc.47 does not drive this node? It is ground? Are you sure? If Uc.47 does not connect here, than where does Uc.47 go in 8050?

Problem#2:
@true: pin8 === pin 41 == TP515 (also goes to uC33 and uC16)
Since I dont have 8050, I couldn't find was what drives 22023.8 in the 8050. If what you say is correct, what drives Uc33 and Uc16 on the 8163? You may have to rewire that circuit too if it is different from 8050.

Please double verify the connection for 2203.8, and the 22023.6/.9 node.

Great work BTW.
You seem to be the only person here cabable of producing any significant results.

Not @True:
What we are trying to do here is make the 8163 Mboard look EXACTLY like the 8050 Mboard. If you want to help, try to find differences.

@true
These connections are looking like they DO make sense. I'm tryin it out tonight and I'll report back my findings.
I wish I had 8050
Great Find!

@all
BTW, I didn't mean he's the ONLY contributor. I just meant that this thread has been stale of any NEW information for quite a while.

Tripple checked this. 6==9==to ground.

on the 8050, uC47 ====R223 (10k) === grnd, see below.

8050L (shown above)

Double checked this as well. confirmed.



Here's a pic before I cut any traces. I just desoldered the audio out connector from the far side, and pulled the pins up and out. I think it'll make for a cleaner install.

8163 (shown above) 8050L in the background

Gainsaying is one of your only virtues we all have gathered!




Is English your second language? 'provoke Tiros' is not past tense; past tense would be 'provoked Tiros'. If you are going to attempt communication in English at least try little man.

Good one! You got me on a grammer error. Why is it that all forum losers like you always resort to spelling and grammer mistakes when they have no other leg to stand on? Maybe you should persue english as a career instead of being a "qualified Computer Systems Engineer with 3 years industry experience". Look at it this way, you won't be tossing away any knowledge or experience if you change careers now.

I would also like to point out your continued lack of TECHNICAL content in ANY of your posts, except for your ingenious dec/hex convsersion, and your inability to answer any of the questions put to you. Why did you feel the need to start this with me?

Have you any problems with the dashboard or with the ejecting?

Do you use the original firmware?

Thanks.

P.S. Great job, continue guys!

Will cutting the traces end the dvd rundown function?
What exactly needs to be cut?

Great job to everyone who has contributed!

I've followed this thread for 2 weeks now and attempted the mod this weekend on two 8163B (white, mft: Jan '05).

But its coming up with the same problem: Eject doesn't work, both from pushing the eject button on XBOX and the drive.

Any ideas why? Do you think that by using 950ohm resistors (on Ready, In, Out) make a difference, i ran out of 1kohm ones.

I haven't flashed 8050L firmware yet; is it necessary? Where can I find the correct firmware. There's been a lot of contradicting post, i've lost track of what's what.

Some interesting find is that my current messed up mod DVD plays DVD movies and games, even if the yellow cable isn't connected. It appears the ready signal is contantly on.

keep up the cood work!

You must flash with the 8050L firmware to correct the problems but after it you can not read anymore CD-R!

If you want to read CD-R and Originals and don't have any problems you must wait for another firmware, but perphaps it is no possible to do that!

Ok, for those who wanted CD-R support. Using modified flash off the usual place. Short the point VRDVD to VRCD and BAM! read every CD-Rs I throw at. I believe TruBB or someone has mentioned this before but no one has actually tried it. So I didn't come up with that. My modded 8163B now work 100% w/CD-R support and of course LED issue is still there, however im very happy for now. Thanks to Tiros, TruBB, and Wenid, and everyone else who has contributed to this mod, it would not be possible w/out you guys.

Update: Nevermind, after I tried this, some DVD-R no longer work...lol but it is still working 100% w/out shorting those point just w/out CD-R support for now. Sorry about it, shoud've test it more before posting.

@xboxman,

Good try. I was originally thinking of connecting LDDV and LDCD, but as TKramka pointed out, the laser gain wouldn't be right. doh! Did you just short the two? or did you try putting a diode across those points, this way it shouldn't bother reading the dvds... again, its just a crazy idea.

I just shorted the two points, I don't mind trying again with a diode if you can tell me which type of diode I need.

Hi,

I am very confused now. Which diagram/bios/flash program should I use to modify my 8163B? I don't really need it to read CD-R. What is the exactly shortfall for the current modification.

Thx

Sorry for the slow reply. I was having problems, and I feel dumb for what was wrong. Basically, it ended up to be both my soldering and the jumper on the dvd drive. I now have it set to "SLAVE", and it works.

This is what I have done right now, and it works very well, minus cd-R support. I havn't cut any traces yet, but I plan to for further testing. Games detected as games in eVox, eVox dvd-rs detected as eVox dvd etc. Games boot up on cold start. An open tray closes on shut down. Acid tests passed. All good!

1.
Flash firmware from #xbins. For mine, I couldn't get it to flash unless I put the 8163b as a master, and my normal cd burner as slave. I put both jumpers to cable select, and it works well. I booted to dos, then flashed the 8163b with the command:

Note: my 8163b is set on the secondary master.

2.
Next I soldered all my wires to the back of the board to the audio out connector. Of course, I had to desolder the pads on the far side first using solder braid. Then I pulled the legs up and out as shown:



Those are 1k resistors at each location, except for eject.

The eject wire gets soldered to the other side here:


3.
I moved the jumper to slave. Soldered the audio out cable (that came w/ the drive) to the to the xbox power dvd cable using the diagram: Obviously I used only four wires, pins 4, 5, 6 & 7.


4.
Used a Y-power cable (like this one from newegg),
plugged in the power, the custom dvd-cable, ide-cable. Thats it.

You can refer to this post for more info on what I still have planned, but it works fine as is. Super simple, and cheap!

TruBB, do you still have the issue of the drive spinning down? i was trying to watch a movie on mine the other day and it got pretty annoying having it stop during the movie

I would think a electrical backflow preventer of some kind would work, so VRCD gets shorted to VRDVD but not vice versa, something like that. Or perhaps just shorting VRDVD to ground would work, it never hurt to try (most of the time , I'm no electrical engineer)

@truBB
It wouldn't be the laser gain, it would be the laser wavelength that would be wrong. DVD lasers run at about 640 nanometers, whilst CD lasers run at about 780 or something like that. Regardless, the red light that a DVD laser emits would be somewhat absorbed by the media, making it pretty much useless. The Thomson uses the same design, which is why it sucks at reading CDRs.

I'm having this issue as well, quite annoying for a media player. I don't really care about the CDRs but this spin down bug is getting nasty.
Ah! I saw a lot of people requesting a x16 firmware, just wondering what's the use of such a function? The games won't load that faster and you'll have a very noisy drive. I'd much more appreciate a solution on that spin down bug if any

I care about CDRs, but I think they are working on the spindown bug, I think thats why they are cutting traces, but then again, what do I know...

I thought the spindown bug was due to the bad flash program, and that "ready" becomes inactive, due to that.
As far as I know, all the issues are resolved except CDR reading.

which is sort of being worked on... Sorry, forgot that it was the firmware, silly little me!

I'm not sure I understand you correctly, the spindown is no more an issue? We can solve it now? Can you indicate me the firmware to do the flash in order to correct the bug please?

Its in the usual place, its the standalone firmware, no flasher, that is at HP, the link is somewhere around here, but it has to be run under DOS.

I played two movies last night, Two towers extended version and then godfather part 1. Neither stopped when playing. I had 'em playing in the background and didn't watch every second, but it played fully through.

You can get the latest firmware from #xbins. The filename is: 8050L_FW_Flasher_FIXED.rar

Hello!
The spindown issue is not when playing a movie but when pausing it : after a minute or two the drive powers itself off and the XBOX reboots.
Quite annoying when you need a snack or something else

Ahh, someone fixed the flasher, good. Makes life so much easier.

is it really nescessary to put resistors on the contacts, or will it work without too? or do you think its possible to desolder some from my old phillips drive(which currently is totally trashed) would be nice to hear from you...

It has been said that it is not technically needed, however it dosn't hurt to add them.

So, is there any hope of fixing the Window$ flasher, I thought it was easier to use.

Thanks everybody for the work that you done for all of us.I have an xbox 1.0 and for the past few weeks my thomson started to give his spirit away.

On friday i bought a 8633bb for 20EYRO (about 30 dollars).

A friend of mine which i thank him very much came on Saturday and after 1 hour we had a working 8050.

Thank you very to everyone and especially TruBB.Also thanks for the firmware on Xbins.

Everything works like a charm.Every game.3 different types of DVD-R TY02,Princo,TYG02.DVD-RW also and cd-rw.

I didn't try cd-r.

Evox status ok , Open , Close, Init Correct display status.

Also Avalaunch report the DVD as 8050

So again THANK YOU guys

Thanks ace1774 i hope the drive we did together works all the time , also i hope someone can change the 4X limitation of the original firmware and give us 8X or 16X capabilities.

What about the spindown?
Do you have it when you pause a video DVD one minue or two?

Thanks everybody for the work that you done for all of us.I have an xbox 1.0 and for the past few weeks my thomson started to give his spirit away.

On friday i bought a DVD ROM LG 16X52 (GDR-8163BB) Bulk with software for 20EYRO (about 30 dollars).

A friend of mine which i thank him very much came on Saturday and after 1 hour we had a working 8050.

Thank you very to everyone and especially TruBB.Also thanks for the firmware on Xbins.

Everything works like a charm.Every game.3 different types of DVD-R TY02,Princo,TYG02.DVD-RW also and cd-rw.

I didn't try cd-r.

Evox status ok , Open , Close, Init Correct display status.

Also Avalaunch report the DVD as 8050

So again THANK YOU guys

P.S. I will try the DVD movie spin down problem and report on evening

so.. yesterday i modded my 8163.. it took all dvd-/+r and rw's and all cd-r/rw's .. nice thing.. never thought that such a simple modding will work that good. puttet 500ohm resistors to tray-in/out and on the ready contact.. works nice too. had no problems with spindowns on movies, but will test this a little more. good work guys!

Are you sure?
Did you test all type of supports?
Wich diagram did you use?

Regards.