QUOTE(tiberius05 @ May 15 2005, 11:12 AM)
Turho,
I will try to assist by summarising the steps you need to take in order to complete
this mod. I must start off by saying that my first attempt was less than successful, so please take your time. All the information I used was obtained from this thread and that I would not have been able to carry out this mod if it wasn't for the people who contributed and came up with a solution. So big thanks to them.
Firstly look at page 49 of this thread. truBB (May 4 2005, 07:37 AM ).
This is basically all I needed to complete the mod.
Step 1 get the xbox firmware.
The file you are after is called 8050L_FW_Flasher_FIXED.rar
This can be obtained from the usual source i.e. xbins. Please refer to the following tutorial if you do not know how to get files from xbins.
http://www.xbox-scene.com/articles/xbins.php
Step 2. Flashing the drive.
Connect the dvd drive to your PC. I followed truBB's advise (page 49) and connected my drive on the secondary master ide channel and set the jumper to cable select.
I had problems flashing the drive with windows xp so I created a dos 6 boot disk.
www.bootdisk.com is a good site to use.
I copied the firmware onto the boot disk as I have NTFS partitions.
I booted the PC from the dos boot disk and typed in the following command:
SF8163.exe 8050L.dld 2 /p /c /f /o /i
Step 3. soldering.
Open the DVD drive case and remove the board. Carefully remove the 3 ribbon cables. 1 of the cables is stuck to the underside of the board so you will need to flip the board over and carefully remove this.
The board is only held in by a small clip.
If I can please refer you back to page 49 all the solder points are clearly shown.
I used 1k common resistors (with the stripes), truBB has used surface mountable resistors. I have been informed that both types are fine.
I used desolder braid as suggested on page 49 to remove the solder from the audio connector. I then carefully levered them up with a small screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
I also found that by scratching the pads on the board a little with a needle and applying a little liquid flux helped the soldering. I then tinned the resistor. Finally I put the component on the board and the soldering iron on the component. I did not touch the board directly with the iron, I let the liquid flux do the work.If you apply to much heat to the pads they will lift off as I have discovered so please be careful.
When you put the drive back together you will notice that the board won't go back in because of the the straightened audio pins. You will need to cut out a small piece of plastic to allow the board to go back down.
step 3 Making a cable.
You need a cable to send the Eject, Ready, CD tray in, and CD tray out signals that you have routed through the audio connection of the DVD drive to your xbox. This is made from a standard dvd audio lead (comes with most dvd drives) and the yellow lead that normally goes between the xbox mother board and original drive.
Please refer to page 49.
Basically you have 4 wires going from the dvd drive to the xbox motherboard
I found that doing each cable one at a time and labelling each cable helped.
Step 4 Making it fit
You will need a y-pair molex connector which connects to the lead that normally goes into the back of your hard drive. It the splits allowing you to supply power to the hard drive and the dvd drive.
Remove the bezel and the surrounding black face plate.
If you put the drive into the plastic dvd tray you will notice that the cylindrical upright (at the front on the left needs to be cut. I chopped mine straight down the middle.
You should now be able to make the drive fit into the xbox.
When you put the lid on you will notice there is another cylindrical piece of plastic coming downwards. The easiest thing to do is cut this bit off. I've got a green xbox and am not so keen in doing this so I will probably make a hole in the dvd drive case.
Hope this helps, best of luck.
I will try to assist by summarising the steps you need to take in order to complete
this mod. I must start off by saying that my first attempt was less than successful, so please take your time. All the information I used was obtained from this thread and that I would not have been able to carry out this mod if it wasn't for the people who contributed and came up with a solution. So big thanks to them.
Firstly look at page 49 of this thread. truBB (May 4 2005, 07:37 AM ).
This is basically all I needed to complete the mod.
Step 1 get the xbox firmware.
The file you are after is called 8050L_FW_Flasher_FIXED.rar
This can be obtained from the usual source i.e. xbins. Please refer to the following tutorial if you do not know how to get files from xbins.
http://www.xbox-scene.com/articles/xbins.php
Step 2. Flashing the drive.
Connect the dvd drive to your PC. I followed truBB's advise (page 49) and connected my drive on the secondary master ide channel and set the jumper to cable select.
I had problems flashing the drive with windows xp so I created a dos 6 boot disk.
www.bootdisk.com is a good site to use.
I copied the firmware onto the boot disk as I have NTFS partitions.
I booted the PC from the dos boot disk and typed in the following command:
SF8163.exe 8050L.dld 2 /p /c /f /o /i
Step 3. soldering.
Open the DVD drive case and remove the board. Carefully remove the 3 ribbon cables. 1 of the cables is stuck to the underside of the board so you will need to flip the board over and carefully remove this.
The board is only held in by a small clip.
If I can please refer you back to page 49 all the solder points are clearly shown.
I used 1k common resistors (with the stripes), truBB has used surface mountable resistors. I have been informed that both types are fine.
I used desolder braid as suggested on page 49 to remove the solder from the audio connector. I then carefully levered them up with a small screwdriver and needle nose pliers.
I also found that by scratching the pads on the board a little with a needle and applying a little liquid flux helped the soldering. I then tinned the resistor. Finally I put the component on the board and the soldering iron on the component. I did not touch the board directly with the iron, I let the liquid flux do the work.If you apply to much heat to the pads they will lift off as I have discovered so please be careful.
When you put the drive back together you will notice that the board won't go back in because of the the straightened audio pins. You will need to cut out a small piece of plastic to allow the board to go back down.
step 3 Making a cable.
You need a cable to send the Eject, Ready, CD tray in, and CD tray out signals that you have routed through the audio connection of the DVD drive to your xbox. This is made from a standard dvd audio lead (comes with most dvd drives) and the yellow lead that normally goes between the xbox mother board and original drive.
Please refer to page 49.
Basically you have 4 wires going from the dvd drive to the xbox motherboard
I found that doing each cable one at a time and labelling each cable helped.
Step 4 Making it fit
You will need a y-pair molex connector which connects to the lead that normally goes into the back of your hard drive. It the splits allowing you to supply power to the hard drive and the dvd drive.
Remove the bezel and the surrounding black face plate.
If you put the drive into the plastic dvd tray you will notice that the cylindrical upright (at the front on the left needs to be cut. I chopped mine straight down the middle.
You should now be able to make the drive fit into the xbox.
When you put the lid on you will notice there is another cylindrical piece of plastic coming downwards. The easiest thing to do is cut this bit off. I've got a green xbox and am not so keen in doing this so I will probably make a hole in the dvd drive case.
Hope this helps, best of luck.
Tiberius05! Very thanks for informations. I big-big-big please: flasher prog and bin files give me for my e-mail post? /sorry my english
/turho@freemail.hu
THX from HUNGARY!!!!!
Haitchi drive (what I have apprently) will not read CD-Rs , it will read DVD-R and CD-RW