I did the wire connection for what im pretty sure is a 1.1 version xbox. I booted it up at first and i got red and green lights then i checked the LAN (cuz i noticed that it was the only light not coming on). So after that it went to green and orange lights. It also attempts to start three times each time the LAN light jumps to life and dies while making a high pitched beep. I did a pretty good soldering job for a begginer and i checked for shorts in the board but came up empty. So what the hell?

Also, could someone please tell me some other things? What is fragging? A bio? how do u flash bios? If everything is lighting up but the LAN led light should i assume that its that wire? If so how the hell do i fix it BESIDES resoldering because i have tried that NINE freakin times!!!! All i know is that im tired and frustrated from workin on this damn thing all day and if no one helps me i have wasted roughly 60 bucks. If anything just answer some of my questions so i can freakin make sense of these forums cuz at the moment i cannot uderstand one word of your techie lingo.

The lan led will only light up whrn there is lan activity. The rest of the time it will be off.

FRAGging is 'flashing red and green' which is what the eject button light will do if there is an error

You can find out about bioses and how to install them in the tutorials. If it still doesn't make sense then post again.

Well, no offense but that told me nothing. Do i need Lan activity if so how do i get it? How do i get rid of the fragging? Someone please, i'm begging you give me answers in layman's terms on how to fix my probably simple problem.

haha. how did his post tell you nothing ?? he told you exactly what you needed to know :

the lan light will only light up when there is activity between your xbox and pc

do you know what lan stands for - Local Area Network. if there is no network present then you will have no light.

Look at this:
http://www.xbox-scene.com/articles/leds.php

You should check your entire motherboard for solder drips/splashes.

And if there is a drip or a splash how do i fix that? What would it look like? a burnt place (very obvious) or a faint mark (hard to spot)?

wrong.



wrong.

A green link light should be on at all times. Even when not sending data. A link light is just what it is...a link signal. It means everything's ok to send and recieve data on the wire. When data is actually being sent, you'll get an activity light also, usually orange.

Dude you are so wrong. You are only gonna confuse him.
Basic Networking 101:
There are two led lights on all network cards, also referred to as a NIC (Network Interface Card).
Light One; Green in color. Light two; Multi-color.

Light One refers to LAN (Local Area Network) connection. This light is only lit when the NIC is able to establish a link with another network device, such as another NIC, hub, router, switch, etc. Otherwise this light will remain off.

Light Two refers to LAN activity. This light will light up every time there is data sent between network devices. You will see it typically flash randomly. Color of the light is dependant of the NIC, some will flash orange/red, others orange/green. The color changes typically indicates connection rate. One color for 10mbps, the other for 100mbps.

Special Occasions:
PC's that use a feature called Wake-On-LAN, will sometimes have a solid green link light always on. Regardless of connection.
DHCP Server requests can flash the activity light randomly when looking for an IP address, regardless of having no link with the LAN. (No Link light)

---
When working on an XBOX, there will be NO Link light active with NO cable plugged in to it. PERIOD.
When troubleshooting, only concern yourself with the POWER button light.

It is just loose solder. Silver in color. In a place on the board that wasn't meant to have solder, lol.

A solder drip or splash may be hard to notice, but will definately stand out if you can find it. They mostly are so small that they are hard to spot with just the NAKED EYE. I recommend you use a magnified eye loup. Like a jeweler or electronic repairman would use. 5x magnifying should be sufficient. Try dusting your board off with a can of compressed air. They has the chance of blowing off some loose drips or splashes, otherwise you may have to actually unsolder them if you find them.

Check ALL of your cable connections, inside and out of XBOX. No pinched wires or severed cables? Fan working?

can you not read? thats exactly what I said. Do you think I meant the light would be on when no cable is plugged in and without a device being connected on the other end??? lol

Hey sometimes people assume things..... Especially if they have now knowledge of the subject. So you kinda have to be detailed. LOL

And yes given the context of your sentences I did think you were refering to 'even when the cable is not plugged in'
Any misunderstanding, my bad! LOL

Hey no prob, sometimes I just feel like giving the short version.

Ok, thanks for all of your help but I think you are not getting my main point. I'm just tryin to get the damn thing to work. That's all. So it's still beeping and restarting three times and i really should have gotten a solderless chip, however now i am stuck with this one and am determined to make it work.

P.S. checked for drips/splashes

First off, your topic title in your post is misleading. You may get more help post in the future if you post a good topic.
Secondly, Give us a little more info.
Here is what I know:
You possibly have a 1.1 xbox but r not sure?? Check Here: http://www.xbox-scene.com/versions_1.php
You have opted to do the WIRE install method.
Your xbox is flashing rebooting 3 times and then flashing green and orange?

What mod chip are you installing?
If you disable your mod chip does the xbox boot normally? (On/Off switch or disconnect d0)
Anything else you can tell us, in detail. No assumptions.

OK im sure it's a 1.1. The chip version is a 2.6. And the xbox is fragging (red and green after 3 attempts to boot) And yes, the xbox works when i turn the chip off. Hope this post isn't too late.