compare the plug that goes into teh xbox. one of them will be fatter. that one belongs to your 1.6

Thanks a lot .

no problems. glad to help out

Three replacement cables arrived today. One of them has the box in the middle, the other two are just normal looking cords. So the question is, how are we supposed to know which xbox the box is meant for?

All three boxes have delta power supplys, although one of them has recently been replaceed, can't remember what the original was, so I'm guessing that the clunky box is for that one..

The xbox's serial number is in the label on the package. Wont be any use though unless you know which cable came with what package.

I never moved the thing was the problem, I don't know how it could get like that.

Not everyone is in the same boat as you. I don't use Live! but I don't like giving my address to MS either, but luckily I am living in Germany this year, so I gave them my German address, which is only mine till July 31st anyways, so bonus. Just for fun I ordered the European adapter.

For the PSU it originally came with a Foxlink one (I'm 99% sure) and I've since replaced that with a Lik-Sang dual-voltage manually switchable one because of coming to Germany. There was no probs with the Foxlink though, only switched it because it was not compatible with the Euro standard 220v. The specs (as I remember them) seemed to be 127V 50/60Hz...

Anyways, since my serial should turn a Foxlink supply, I'll see which one I get. Hopefully not that stupid AFI one...

I have a V1.0 with a Delta PSU so I'm guessing I'll be getting the plain cord, I'm going to edit the post and let you know once it comes in.

I went to turn my XBOX on today and no light no power. I Came here knowing I would find an answer. My power connection began to get lose 6-8 months ago then came the horrible picture which got worse until I learned a trick! The loose power cord was some how affecting my picture and sticking a bottle cap under the end of the power cord where it connects fixed it .
Im going to open her up tonight to see if the solder is the problem I have a couple questions though.
1. Why would the power cord affect my picture?
2.What precautions should I take when handling the power supply?

Mine arrived yesterday but I was at work so I had to pick them up at the Main Office today:

Both of mine are like this one (UK Ver though - duh)

Both my boxes are 1.1, I have some tiny surge protectors that I have used on both of them for a couple of years now. (really they are super small)

So now I have plugged in one of the new cables with the other surge protector dongle also (the tiny one has a light on so you can see if the power is on, saves digging around to find the block on the new cable.

It's their fault for using POS PSU's. FoxLink is made by Deer, Allied is from Deer, and Deer = junk, although Allied is Deer's least-junky brand. I'd never accept any of Deer's brands, Which include Hyena, Eagle, Foxlink, Foxconn, Austin, Codegen, Logic, L&C, Duro, PowerUp, Hercules.

I have a different PS than others I've seen here. Mines a Minebea Electronics. Was the first box I bought, back in 02. I live in the U.S.

Just got mine today for my 1.0, it's the wall-wart AFI.

I popped my Xbox open and the power supply soldering looks fine, so I'm gonna stick with the stock cord at least until I can get another power strip or move my Xbox somewhere else. I don't have room for another wall-wart, even one as narrow as this one.

Anyone else notice that their "wall-wart" gets kinda warm?

I just checked my psu and it's a foxlink , but it was in my 1.2 le green box. Also checked the solder joints and they are perfect , no cracks , burns etc.

Do I need to order a new one as I don't want one of them fat one's or is standard cable ok?. Oh and I've never heard crackling or anything from the box.

Psu is model ftps-0002 rev G.

Me and my brother both got letters from M$ about new cables. How did they know my brother's name though? I or him never used his na me on any M$ stuff. Also, i think that M$ should kust tell the truth, its better.

I've just aquired a Japanese launch, Skeleton Black limited edition Xbox. The power supply is unknown at this stage, but it will have to be replaced as I'm 240v and don't wish to use a stepdown transformer.
I am looking at these replacement PSU's at Lik-sang,

Universal PSU

Naturally MS can't give me a replacement cable for this Xbox, so I will be using the older cable from my v1.1 or v1.3.

Does anyone know the build quality of these PSUs and whether it will be OK with the old cord?

I bought 50 "as is" Xbox's not to long ago, about 10 of them had issues with Foxlink PSU's most had minor burning on the backside of the connector while some had holes and lifted traces. Most can be fixe with an ample amount of solder and a shitload of hot glue. Here is one that I didn't bother fixing, it's the worst one ive seen thus far.




Wup

i have a 1.1 xbox and i ordered a replacement cord. before ig ot my cord i checked to see what kind of power supply i had and it was a foxlink. =( but when i got my new cord it was the one without the AFI....

http://pictures.xbox-scene.com/4/xbox-powerchord/chord2.jpg

thats the power cord i got... i got a 1.0 xbox.

hey WolfPac_Ite your pics are goddamn fukking huge.. people dont like having to scroll left to right to read posts..please show everyone a little courtesy and resize them.... thanks.

Hm, wonder if this is the acutal cause of my thread here (a while ago now):

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?sho...1&st=&p=&#entry

(update to that info, it wasn't the power in that one building. And it can make sparking sounds if I wiggle the power cord around in the socket).

It looked all ok when I pulled it out... maybe I should check again. Can someone please post or point me to a photo of a foxlink PSU which shows the top? Would be easier than me opening my box to check. Mine has a big transformer next to the female cable socket.


I hope there isn't too much wrong, as I'm overseas and will be interesting to try and get it fixed....

What sort of damage can this cause? Will it just fry the PSU, or can it screw the whole xbox? (I think I missed this info, sorry).

M$ reckon mine's not affected. Popped in serial number 106xxxx24205, manufacture date 2002-Oct-17, got the message "Your Xbox is unaffected. Your Xbox does not require a replacement cord and one will not be shipped."

Funny that, it's well within the "recall range". Still, getting three shipped out for long-dead Xboxes, so they'll do

If you're overseas, order a new one from Lik-Sang, depending on your xbox version. It will be dual voltage as well then, for more portability. I did it and it works perfect.

- For a 1.0-1.5 Xbox
- For a 1.6 Xbox

Cheers,
Cam

Just my 2p on comments I have read here...

I would suggest that adding any amount of solder onto the joints above and beyond what is needed is actually just as dangerous as leaving it alone.

A solder joint should be concave and have just enough solder to reliably make contact between the leg and the pad. If more is put on, the joint is still prone to breaking at the pad. If this happens it will arc. If an arc happens near solder it will melt the solder and splash it around the place. It can quite easily short out other points. For this reason please dont do it!

If the solder joint is broken, but the pad is still stuck properly then romove all the solder with a solder sucker or braid and re-solder it properly. For added strength I would suggest glue. Not solder!

If the black box is infact an RCD then the same effect can be achieved by buying a <£5 RCD from an electrical store (often found with lawn mowers and other outdoor electrics), and plug your old power lead through one of these.

From my electrical saftey trtaining notes:

An RCD breaks the circuit when there is an imbalance of current between the live and neutral conductors.

If current leaks to earth via a person, the circuit is broken.

They do not prevent electric shock, they only limit the severity of a shock.


Basicly sticking an RCD is on the end of it, in my view is an unsatisfactory bodge. The unit is still, prone to catching fire, able to give minor electric shock, and unfit for purpose. They should have been recalled.

my xbox is dated 10-27-2001, took her apart and she has a delta PSU - but the solder joints look fine underneath, however I still cant power on my xbox with the power button. When i hit it nothing happens. The only way I can shut it off/on is to remove the powercable

any ideas guys?

thanks

maybe the softpower button has either broken or its cable has come loose.

no its a mobo problem... and i wish to god somebody would figure out what causes it

hey wobbie...havent we established its an afi and not an rcd???

ah fair enough... to be honest ...15 pages was too much for me to read in detail!

was pretty sure it would be an RCD.

My wrong...

actually... i dont know about AFI's and i cant get any results when searching either here or with RS? got any links to info?

Ok so i think you meant GFI and not AFI.

I just searched google and the reason (as far as i can read - correct me if i am wrong) that i dont know wat a GFI is and I think that it is an RCD... is because they are the same thing. GFI is the american term for it, and I am English.

Circuit = xbox
AFXI
will anyone post the UL numbers on there new cord
or look it up and post the UL spec..
still waiting for replacment

I have a 1.0 xbox bought 2 years ago. Some day ago, my whife call me urgently in office and tell me that my doughter during gameplay, has seen a smoke outing from xbox and a burning smell in the ambient. In addings a shhhhhhshshhshhsh sound outing from back of xbox.

Immediately unplug the 220V and call me.

When opened the xbox, searching for problem using the nose... I found that is exactly as reported on the first post of this thread. The 220V input connector is clearly desolded, and sparkled. I resolded with a lot of tin, and then is all OK.

The only things is.. and if I'm out of my home ?
and if the flame burn my house ?
who pay ?

Bye all

lets just say it MS are idiot for hiring foxlink to do it get someone real

Funny how ppl that have v1.2-v1.5 for the most part have the actually MS so called "Replacement Cord" while the v1.0-v1.1 get the "Protection Cord" giving the users the wtf sounding to thinking "I thought they were replacing cords...

Well anyways 2 things have screwed MS now and they're all from China what do you guys Think???

THOMPSON DVD Drive China, Shenzhen
Foxlink PSU, China Somewhere

What MS "DOES" need to do next time is not using any "MADE IN CHINA" products or products manufactured in dirt cheap factories with cheap China labor

Bad MS,Bad

hey wobbie its an afi,arc fault interrupter not gfi wich is a ground fault interrupter... there is no ground wire on an xbot to carry an unbalanced load on so it cant have a ground fault on it...but it can have arcing (sparking) wich an afi will detect an unbalanced load on the hot and the neutral wires and in a 220/240 caseyou have a ground but it is the same as a neutral because you have no neutral wire...but it is still only 1 wire and not 2.so it cant take the unbalanced load and send it to a backup extra wire real fast as in the case of a gfi

hmmm.....I got my clunker in the mail today. However my xbox has been having some weird issues. I think it might be something with not enough power getting to the box... When I try to turn it on the green led will come on for one second with the fan and then turn off. Next the green led becomes solid and the controller vibrates. there is no audio or video, just a blank screen.... So the thing screws up right... but it works perfectly the second time after I turn it off and on again. It seems to do this only when I let the xbox sit for a while and try it on the FIRST time....after i let it screw up it works fine until it sits for a while and I have to try it again... ALSO sometimes it will just flash red and green instead of the solid green (but most of the time it just does the solid green).....Im getting multiple error sequences at random times...this is some weird stuff... does anyone know what that error sequence means? Im going to try and solder the points to stop the sparking but Im also hoping this will repair my other issue...Also the clunker sucks man...the damn thing is huge..

i can see how most of you think that ms has done thw wrong thing here. but i think that they have done the right thing. if you have a psu that is liable to have a dry joint, they give you the cord with the big bulky plug thing. if it stops working, you send it to ms, the replace the psu.

for evreyone else, the reason why you have a new cord is so that for you lazy fuckers out there who dont unplug it when you transport your xbox, you dont do as much major damage the connecter

My cord arrived today. My Xbox is a UK PAL Xbox and they have sent me a two way plug, what good is this to me. I need 3 way plug.

M$=Idiots.

I just recieved mine today.
PAL Belgium

Woohaa,,,recived mine today, i live in sweden and its a PAL with a foxlink psu.

Who will be the first to mod the protection cord into the Xbox

got mine for a 1.0 box that i no longer have and all i have to say is that they're ugly and bulky

hoho,,,yea they are bulky, but hey,,,,i cant aford a psu change so this is fine until i do
mm yes mod this on the box hahaha...sound interesting hmmm

I second that, my XBOX is mfg´d 04-16-2002 and is a v1.0 or 1.1 purchased in Sweden so it's a European version.. dont remember, I've also got a Delta PSU in mine, and I got the AFI power chord (not complaining, it's a nice peice of hardware to get for free).. but realy, I would have expected MS to take more responcibility

The weird thing about mine is that it like yours has a delta PSU, and the solderpoints are unharmed and everything, BUT mine has sufferd internal damages.. the problem is that got the ARCing problem where the xbox shuts down and all that, I have identified a component underneith the PCB of the PSU half melted so there has defineatly been some sort of electrical malfunction


The result of all this is that the sound in all games, XBMC and all PCM audio is distorted (crackling), while sound when playing DVDs works fine.. probably a DAC or something got semi-fried during the electrical malfunction, but the xbox in general works like it should, still it's unusable for anything except playing DVDs, I've tried to fix it with no luck

Anyone who could answer me this, would a replacement PSU fix the problem, or alternativly, would purchasing an XBOX live headset work, I mean, they're more or less a separate USB soundcard so it might work.. perhaps?

MS denying the issues with the power supply is so fucking bullshit. We've known for a long time that FOXLINK PS was trash. I got a dozen.. maybe more that all suffered the same burnout on the leads..





http://www.pictures.xbox-scene.com/hsdemon...ousPowerSupply/

wish I could find the pics of the cases these supplies were pulled from.. awesome effect seeing the melted ABS plastic..

*cough* *cough* *bullshit* M$ you liers!
I'm so gonna bug you about this!

The Delta Power Supplys Rock! The power connection is Rock solid.

But as for Foxlink, Shame on you! I have 2 xboxs with broken solder joints! and seen many more in my days of repair/moding.


So...Bill....If the power cords are not for this problem, then what do you plan on doing for the faulty Foxlink systems?

.. keep in mind that those units were running on well ground lines, using state of the art APC/UPS type units to provide clean, noise free and constant stable power.