yeah i got 5 normal cords and 7 bulky ones...ill see what else i get when the other 10 or so come in

I don't think so if you opened your xbox

I say SUE.... Child endangerment!!! I don't personally have any kids but I know a lot of my friends at work have 2 and 3 year olds play xbox. They can play some mean mario...

I wonder if Tribal mods is even in business. I would buy even more apache 2.0 chips. I love it in my 400+ watt ATX power supply

And what revision type are we talking about when it comes to the reinforced connectors? Only B? I have an xbox mfg 14-10-2003 which has the foxlink revision H type. Do you mean this type? H seems more recent than B

rev. B and later then I guess

Yes my foxlink is a Revision A and my Xbox is a 1.0 built in 2002 which had this problem.

It seems they realized there was a problem then they started securing the connector down with rivets.

yea... i have... or used to have a 1.0 console, and I did have it modded. I got the letter from XBOX about the replacement cords... and in the letter they mentioned that there may be burning inside the console, and now that I remember it, my console did burn from the inside. I threw everything away but the dvd drive, the daughter board and the controller ports. Is there anything I can do now that I know its their fault?

For all those that think MS did the right thing i have something for you. For all the very stupid people we have in the world MS is retarded for not admitting the real reason for the recall. Which is the solder joints going bad causing arcing and sparking. Because when people get these new powercords and find out that there xbox will not work with these things because the AFI keeps popping they are going to use their old cords that will still work because they aren't protected. And then you are going to have the exact same problem. Would this keep MS from being liable since the stupid people didn't use the new cord? I don't think so since they didn't admit the REAL problem.
Anyway that's all I got at the moment. Still Sony is doing nothing... but then again a disc read error isn't going to burn down your home.

yeah but they have 7000x model little ps2's with lasers that catch fire and they get so hot they melt linolium...and anyways even if they have systems that play only upside down and inside out doesnt mean they shouldnt do a recall... all 5000x model ps2's hava a bad chip on the mobo..known prob. no recall they shoulda stopped with the 3900x model ps2's... and not to mention ps 1..sony hasnt done a recall in the 9 or so years of playstation but MS atleast gave a bandaid to help the people who wont be stupid and burn themselves down

Here, I set up a petition at www.petitiononline.com

Please sign this!!!

http://www.petitiononline.com/msxbpcp/petition.html

just signed it good on ya mate

If MS had a recall, then how many people would willingly send their consoles in for repair? I'm guessing a significantly less number than those who gave their serial numbers to receive a free cord.

This is a console that is nearing the end (prematurely) of its lifecycle, MS want to minimise the amount of cases of hazard to person and property, they do not care if your console craps out, so long as it doesn't burn you and your home in the process. They also don't want people opening the box (naturally), therefore they will externalize the problem and point to the cord as being at fault.

People here have to remember that not everyone who owns an Xbox is part of this scene. Most people would weigh up the risk and decide not to send there console back and miss out on two weeks of gaming. But it takes very little effort to receive a cord in the mail.

Petitions are all very well, but come on, lets not kid ourselves. Most of the people that are going to sign it are capable of fixing the problem themselves.

I had the problem of bad solder joints and resoldered but I think its damaged something on the mainboard. It seems I get get it to turn on with the case off, but if I slightly touch the cables from the white ATX like power connector it will immediately turn off. If I dont touch it it will turn on and stay on ok, but as soon as I put the case back on it will only work sometimes and be unreliable. I thought perhaps that the ATX power connector had some bad solder joints on the mother board, but they look fine. There is a modchip on board but i've completely removed it to ensure that was not it. Replaced PSU thinking it was that, but no luck. Any suggestions on possible causes?

you have a lose molex pin(the spring pin in the white connector), most likely. you can remove them by sticking a screwdriver in the slot on the connetor and bending in the retaining tang and then the pin can be pulled out, you can then bend out the spring portion of the pin so it will contact better. I don't know if this is clear enough or not....

it seems like M$ is becoming more lax in sending the power cords according to the serial number. I sent in my order early last week, at different times/days.
they were all different, 1.0s and others manufactured in early and late '03.
i was expecting to get the bulky only for the 1.0s and the thinner replacement for the '03s.
when i got them all, they were all the bulky.

i'm not complaining, but has this happened to anybody who just ordered very recently?

how bout this... MS DIDNT LIE ABOUT ANYTHING..... i have the manual taht came with the new cord right here.... it doesnt say the power cord is bad... it says you should use the cord because something can possibly go wrong with your xbox and this will create less of a hazard.... reality check.... the only people who said that cord was bad... were people like you... all MS said was that you should get a replacent cord...... if they said it was bad... they said it was a hazard.... i have the freakin book rigth here to scan if you guys want...

kooly is bill gates!

how about this WHO THE HELL CARES! THey're giving the cords away for free... they said a total of 6 machines blew up WOOPIE DOO. If they hadn't have said anything everyone would still think the earlier power supplies were shit (because they are - i've bought tons of power supplies off ebay that had the broken solder points problem - and a little reflow fixes it).

This thread should have died weeks ago. Someone do us all a favor and close this thread.

obviouisly you cared to reply... obviously all these people that replied cared... obviously whoever started that bogus petition cared.....

right... im bill gates... that makes sense.... or maybe i just know how to read a 2 page manual that comes with the power cord.... i bought an xbox... so why would i trash the company that made it... i would just be a hypocrite

the fact of the matter is, these power cords are not fixing anything, and thats why people are pissed, cause there xbox will still get fucked, it just wont start a fire.

And ms did lie, they made a statement denying there is anything wrong with the soldering or the power supply, when obviously there is

so this only happens to the Foxlink power supplies right?

I have 2 1.0's....one's a Delta and one's a Minebea or whatever it is...
Those don't have this problem?

I have 3 xboxes, 1 is a first gen, the 2nd is year younger then the first, then the 3rd is about a year old. I've not had a problem with any of them, No poping sounds, so smells any thing. A major tip might be, stop opening your xbox and fiddling with it, and it might not stop working, or messing up. oh and stop leaving it turned on 24/7, instead turn it off when not in use.

its funny how the topic creator says absolutely posivitely the source of the problem, is these 2 lil hook ups in the psu. yet no proof has been given, wheres the sciene?

wheres the results of tests?

idiot. of course those 2 solder joints are the real reason.
nice first post!! check llama.com which have repaired thousand of power supply units.

This is definitely a real thing ... My XBOX blew up two days after christmas. I called and got no definitive response from XBOX and had to buy a new one. Which was nearly impossible to find anywhere near Seattle. I had pressed to power button to turn it on and then a large pop and sizzle. I wished I would have known about this or I wouldn't have gone office space on it and thrashed it with a bat for New Years. I was more upset about not being able to find a new one for a week than it actually happening to me. Then again I had no idea this was a problem. It definitely could be a fire hazard because I knew that it had burned out I just did not know the extent of the problem. It was immediately unplugged and I had to rip out the drive to get my game back out of the XBOX. Thanks for having a website to vent about a company that cannot even support something for which the consumer forks over a minimum or 150 bucks and has the potential to burn their house down.

One thing is sure of my xbox.
I don't have a fireshit PSU or what, in my xbox.

I recieved a normal replacment for my 1.3 or 1.4 (Serial check)

by the way.
I believe M$ khow's al lot of your xbox.

Every part, Dash and Bios versions (Original)
and also what Format code is aply for in your SystemInfo (Default Dash)

some basic of the format code.
Mostly begins with Y and hafe 5 things to put in
yx Left (L Thumpstick3x)
YY xa Left

No B (Used for back)

did just open up my v1.0 xbox to find out that thers an delta psu there... so now i can sleep in peace not having this horrible nightmare of my xbox blowing up, destroing my house...

You haven't read this thread enough. The Deltas in the 1.0/1.1 apparently can "blow up".

just thought i'd add my .02 cents...i've seen several xboxes with this problem. I have a delta and a foxlink psu here right now that the user tried to repair themselves...let me also add that this happened to me on my 1.0 w/ a delta psu. But, upon opening my box to find the source of the sparks/crackling, i found that the problem was created in my case at least by the leads on the bottom of the psu coming from the power cord plug not being cut down short enough and after transporting it several times these leads had pierced through the cardboard that m$ uses to line the bottom of the area where the psu resides, thereby causing the psu to arc out on the case. luckily i didn't force the situation as i had already seen several that had failed in this manner. as anyone with any electrical knowledge knows with these psu's arcing out on the case that the box uses for its ground, there are several components that could be damaged/get hot if you persist to try it. i have to agree that these replacement cords are poo-poo.

well the are crap... obviously because they arent supposed to fix anything....but confine the hazard

M$ is doing this because they are minimizing the risk of an xbox going nuclear. but look it on the other hand. How many of you would ship out theire xbox to get a new PSU? and remember only unopened consoles. so the 80% of the people on here coudnt of done it because of a mod chip. and besides. you can mod this huge mofo.

but one thing im pissed at is that they SHOULD admit to the soldering job.it is crap. i repair some daily.



Sac

yeah most of us on here can fix the psu's ourselves, I'm doing this more for the other millions of ppl that have xboxes that now wont catch on fire, but will still stop working.

BTW, whats this "format code" thing somebody mentioned? Like you hit a certain button combo in te ms dash? What does it do?

here's a couple pics of mine after it fried, dont mind the red wire, it's only there for the temporary job before i had the time to go get solder (now safely soldered and running fine btw)

Ohwk i figured what the hell in the first place... but 25 pages...

Imma go and borrow a soldering iron

If i see just ONE crack on there i'm soldering the goddamn replacement cord INTO my xbox.

God i hate anyoine with enuff money to lie and actually get away with it.

http://blog.fuzzymuzzle.com/2005/03/xbox-cables-wtf.html No flaming, just my incite after reading the 25 pages. BTW, is it still concensus that you only get the AFIs if you have a PSU without a riveted connector?

That I guess is somewhat correct, but your power cord assumption is slightly off.

1. Only 1.0 and 1.1 xboxes get the AFI cord (for the most part)
2. All 1.0's and 1.1's with foxlinks get the AFI, and some with Delta and Mineba supplies.
3. Only the Foxlink "Rev. A" psu's (only in 1.0 and 1.1) do not have the riveted connector. Foxlink fixed this in later revisions.
4. All 1.2-1.5 xboxes with foxlink PSU's get a normal power cord (assumption)
5. Some 1.2-1.5 xboxes with delta get a normal cord, but most do not get any replacement
6. No 1.6 boxes get any power cord.

X-S was featured in Gamespots weeky rumor news heres the link: http://www.gamespot.com/news/2005/03/04/news_6119725.html

So the problem is not the xbox, but the cord..

Page 5 of the UK user manual that comes with the big block thing.

"Test the Xbox Protection Cord each time you plut it in to make sure it is working properly"

Why if it is supposed to solve the problem?????

Page 3 of the UK user manual that comes with the big block thing

"Your Xbox console may be susceptible to electrical problems that can cause damage or fire inside the console. Even though the Xbox console is designed to keep fire from spreading outside the console M$ recommends that you always use the Xbox Protection Cord with your console to further reduce this risk"

Seems to be an internal problem to me.

Anyone else?

[EDIT]

Typo

There are two potential defects within the xbox. The power supply solder joints, and the power cord pins not fitting snuggly enough. The bigger fire hazard is the power supply. Some xboxes have both problems, some only have the power cord pins problem.

M$ is therfore distributing two cords:

1) One with an afci box on it.
2) One without the acfi box on it, but just fixes the pin connection problem.

If you want to fix the solder joints, or otherwise replace the power supply to avoid using the cord with the afci box on it, you can BUT: it is advisable to replace the cord anyway. The old cord is still potentially defective. The new cords are numbered JHT-031, and the old defective ones are numbered JHT-013 . And of course, new xboxes will come with JHT-031 cord in the box.

Why did that GameSpot article say that the power cord conspiracy was bogus? Are they blind!

Just a quick one about the soldering. Just putting more solder on it is not the thing to do. a good solder joint looks like this



Note that it should NOT completely cover the pin and it should not “bulge” out.

try checking out the following for a soldering guide.


http://www.circuittechctr.com/guides/7-1-1.shtml

PS sorry if it's already been covered but it gave up going through all 24 pages

yeah but thats what the joints looked like originally, and they crack.

The problem is that there is too much stress on the joint, and in this case a bit more solder helps to hold the load better. (I would also suggest gluing the power connector to the PCB with super glue or something)

If you put to much solder on you can end up with a "dry joint" which can be a lot weaker and is just as bad as not enough. The idea of the glue though is a very good one.



It's not the amount of solder that count's it's the surface area against the material that is important. The second image has almost the same as the third and is in most cases stronger. The first image on the other hand is crap.

too much solder wont cause a dry joint, not enought solder causes dry joints. Also althought the images are crude the tthird image is acceptable. A solder joint should not gulge over the pad, as long as the angle of the solder ball is not at a 90 degree angle or smaller then it is within acceptable uses. Of course ideally you would want to have your joint look like image number 2.

Anyways not to get sidetracked from the original reason why i wanted to make a post. I find it awefully curious why M$ would be so concerned about replacing power cables for problems outside of it's control. What I mean is, their logic is that the sustained overvoltage could cause your xbox to blow up, well it could also cause a TV or a computer to blow, and if it is caused by blown down power lines or faulty wiring, wouldnt something like that be the problem for the electric company or the electrician who wired the house? I thought thats what surge protectors were for.... Anyhow my point is replacing all those cables costs money and M$ is being very generous for something that according to their official story can be caused by an act of god or someone's faulty wiring.

slight of hand, smoke and mirrors... the easiest explanaiting is usually the correct and right now fualty power supplies with a cover up to keep from getting sued is a lot simpler explanation then gusts of wind blowing down power lines which will cause 1 out of 10,000 xboxes to spark and fry.

Btw, Gamespot will do any game makers bidding cause without them they wouldnt be in business so burning them wouldnt be in their best interest.

GameSpot is Bogus.

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?act...=0#entry2393439

It's a good post. Hopefully Gamespot reads it and actually takes 5 minutes to look into this crap.

sorry havent god my old xbox anny more.. buoght a new one..
i hat the problem.. the doldering was gone.. when you ruble a litle with the power supply you also here the sound a sparks.. when opening the xbox the 2 connecters have lost ther thin on the 2 connectors for the power..

this was a xbox rev1.0 from the 1.1 and above we never had trouble.

Here are some pics of what's inside the "big box" (Euro version):

Top view:




The black thing below "sensor coil" is a coil wrapped around one of the outgoing power lines, which to me tends to support the theory that this is an arc detection box as it doesn't seem necessary to measure overvoltage, but I don't know much about these types of circuits.

Bottom view:



This thing has a daughtercard! Looks expensive.

Some part numbers: part marked "DB2" is marked
-6+
48G

IC on top of board next to circuit breaker is a KA2803B earth leakage detector. IC next to sensor coil is MOC3023 6-Pin DIP 400V Random Phase Triac Driver Output Optocoupler.

ICs on daughtercard are LM353M dual FET opamp and something that's had part of its number obscured but ends in "44B" or "448".

There's no sign of any evil modchip-disabling technology but hey, it could be hidden inside the transformer.

if you really wanted to fix your problem, take some good gauge wire (im not sure what you need for 120V) and solder them onto the plugs coming in from the xbox, and the other end to the pad on the PSU, leave enough slack so the wire can move back and forth slightly, but not too much so they don't short with each other. the problem with the solder pads is when u shove the cord into the port and wiggle it around to take it out it pulls the pads apart from the plug. It happened to mine awhile ago before this whole m$ coverup and i did this repair, seeing the same design in my 1.6 xbox i had previously bought.

remember: the road is wet when it rains

unplug your xbox before you work on it

Heres my latest culprit.

Still waiting for my replacement cords.

Ref the power cord re-call. I saw it in the paper, phoned the free phone number, gave my details of my box (got a v 1.0), and got a cord with the re-set button on it through the post, then i got another two, havent got a clue where they came from as i only phoned up once. I also got a letter fm MS ref recall, same day as my first cord arrived