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NickFury
Quick question...

I've already tried searching...

Im installing a duox2 modchip. I've done about 8 modchip installs before. I've always used the bottom d0 point on the xbox mobo's. Someone used my soldering iron, and turned up the wattage on it. When I went to use it, I didnt notice it, and I melted away the bottom d0 point with the hot iron sad.gif No problem I thought, I will just use the top d0. I brought the wattage back down on the iron, and everything went smoothly on the top d0. The connections look good, nice and shiny, and nothing moves at all. But when I plug in the xbox, its still f.r.a.g'n. sad.gif

My question is, if the bottom d0 is gone, will it still cause the xbox to f.r.a.g even though the top d0 has a good connection? Or will I have to fix that bottom trace somehow?

Thanks in advance

Nick
deakphreak
if the bottom trace is broken, you will need to fix it. Take a wire to bridge the broken trace and it should work fine.
Chancer
With the bottom D0 gone the original M$ bios will not work but the modchip bios should by using the top D0. If its fragging in modchip mode you have other problems as well as the damaged D0.
I would connect top D0 to bottom anyway and get the M$ bios working then go from there troubleshooting the install.
NickFury
Ok I just used a voltmeter to test the d0. I have a good connection from the top d0 to the modchip...

Im doing a quicksolder install for this duox2. I filled all the holes on the lpc bus bus before I put the chip on, the I lined the chip up with the lpc bus and solderd the chip on from there. Was that wrong?

This is a 1.4 xbox. I have no m$ bios becuase Im recovering this xbox from a bad tsop flash...
Chancer
QUOTE
Im doing a quicksolder install for this duox2. I filled all the holes on the lpc bus bus before I put the chip on, the I lined the chip up with the lpc bus and solderd the chip on from there. Was that wrong?

Unless you are very good at quicksolder yes that was not the easiest way to install it. You should have used the pinheader that comes with these chips.
If the M$ bios is shot, then you may as well connect BT on the chip to Pin 9 (point G) on the chip. this makes the chip always on. The RED LED should be blinking on the chip.
If the machine still FRAGs then the LPC connections are the problem
NickFury
Ok, I took the soldering iron, and put it over every LPC hole and heated up the solder so it would flow through between the mobo and the chip as to make a good connection. It seemd to work. I plugged it in, and no more fragin!

Dunno what going on now though.. the red light on the chip is flashing fine. When I turn the xbox on, it flashes amber for a second, red once, then it holds green. but no video. Is this normal, I have a focus chip BTW?

Chancer
The video should be up and running as well. Double check round fro any damage to the lLPC or any solder splashes etc. I find a good magnifier helps.
NickFury
QUOTE(Chancer @ Jun 25 2005, 12:35 AM)
The video should be up and running as well. Double check round fro any damage to the lLPC or any solder splashes etc. I find a good magnifier helps.
*




I just checkd the whole mobo, no solder splashes. LPC looks fine. I plugged the xbox in, and took my multimeter and followed hackdabox's tutorial. The LPC bus appears to be fine, as I'm getting the correct voltages in all areas. BT is connected to "G" so the modchip will be "always on".

Still, when I turn on the xbox, it flashes amber twice, red once, and flashes green a few times then stays solid green. Also at this time I hear the DVD spinning up and down 3 times. HD spins right up, but I still get no video? sad.gif
NickFury
NM found out the problem...

It was my video wires. They work fine for my xbox (1.1), but not for a newer one. Used the wires that were supplied with the xbox im currently modding and, BAM! VIDEO! rotfl.gif

Just gotta flash it, install Ava and I'm done!


Thanks Chancer and Deakfreak for all your help!

Nick
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