I've got a little problem... I was soldering a new A button using the points in RDC's post on page 8. And I wasn't paying attention, which was stupid, I know, and I accidentally covered the two tiny resistors right above where I was working in solder. When I scraped away the solder, they were gone. They were lost somewhere in the blob.



The traces lead to the right bumper, which doesn't work now. So I was wondering if maybe I could just wire from the points where the resistors were, or if there's no way that I can get that button working again without them being there. Thanks in advance.

The top one is a Capacitor, bottom one is a Resistor. Even with them missing RB should still be working fine. Clean up the mess there and see if it starts working, looks like it's possibly shorted to ground there to me. Do A, D-pad Up and D-pad Down still work? if not that trace is definitely shorted, if all of them do still work then that trace is just damaged at the via there and the connection just isn't getting to RB.

Alright, so you were right about it shorting. The Dup and Ddown weren't working either, so I cleaned up the solder and it fixed that. But the RB still isn't functioning properly. When I press it, it does the A button function. Any ideas on that? Thanks a lot for your help.

Also the A button does the A function. I have two simultaneously working A buttons.

Interesting, can ya get a new pic of it cleaned up now? Also is this testing being done with the Trigger still removed or reinstalled? and in what game (or is it the dashboard) that it acts like this?

Ok, so here's what it looks like now:


Originally I was just trying it in the dashboard with the trigger removed, but I tried it in Orange Box and Halo 3, and found out that the RB actually acts as both the A button and the RB at the same time. I reattached the trigger, and am still having the same results. There's still some solder left on it that I couldn't seem to remove, but as far as I can tell, it's not connecting anything anyway, so I don't think that's the problem (it's probably hard to tell from the picture.)

I got a new wired controller, and the switches are labeled different, and are in different places. Instead of "K#", they're labeled "SW#". Does anyone have an updated diagram I could use? All I really need to see is the Dpad. Thanks to anyone who can help.

I still use your original xbox guide

dude your awesome

Hey I had the same problem. Right bumper was doing the A function. Controller eventually broke, so now I dont have to worry about it.

Sorry bout taking so long to get back to ya. That doesn't look horrible, seen better, seen worse. For the controller to have the issue you're describing there's either still a short somewhere or it's been screwed up on that one line and fried something, I'd have to actually see it to check and know more.


No M$ brand controller has the button contacts labeled SW, and if they're in different places that begs the question what are you really looking at then? The latest version of the Wired controller still has them labeled K, the only thing that's labeled SW on it are the Thumb Sticks. Post up a pic of it if ya can, can't even begin to make up any kind of diagram if I don't know what you're looking at.

hi there, i realize this is an old topic but i need a bit of help

i recently purchased a dual shot rapid fire controller off ebay.

there are two back buttons that act as the right trigger and the left trigger but are instead daul rapid trigger functions.




the controller works fine, and i play halo.
to shoot typically it is the right trigger button.

i was curious if it would be possible to turn that rapid right trigger button to the actual trigger.

i want to do this so instead of pushing the tiny button in the back, i can just push the right trigger to do the same function as the rapid right trigger button.

someone please help

thanks

Why would you buy a 'custom' controller that's not very custom?

Yeah that can be done, but depending on who did what in there and exactly how they went about it that may turn into a bit of a mess to convert. It wouldn't have been that big a hassle to ask them to have made it up to your specifications to start with, might have been for them to do it, but not to ask and at those prices it shouldn't. You'll have to take the thing apart and post pics before I could even guess as to what you'd have to rearrange in there. I know how I'd do it from the start, but to alter one that's already setup another way is a completely different story.

Since ya didn't make one yourself I'll assume ya have little to no knowledge of what all this could take to pull off, so I'd recommend either sending that one off to be converted, or order up a new one setup how ya want it to start with. Yer already in the hole with what the thing cost, and it's not really going to get any more shallow setting it up the way ya want. Altering someone else's work is most times a pain because ya have to figure out what they did in there first off, then unfork it and redo it the way ya really wanted it to begin with.

Hey, I solved that problem, but now I need to take off the trigger? how do I do it? Do I take off just the trigger itself or the whole trigger setup?

Solved what problem? You need to desolder the 3 leads of the POT for the Trigger before that whole assembly will come off, provided we're talking about a 360 controller here still. After it's desoldered it just has clips that hold it all on the board there.

@RDC

I really like the pics you showed of the controllers, and where to wire everything! Just a quick question... Would this be the SAME as the Rapid Fire Mod? Just wanted to know. And if it's not.. do you know of a tutorial that has the rapid fire mod! Thanks Man!

How about making a button which can power on any extra fans or light mods on the 360

Would what be the same? There are a couple of Rapid Fire mod tutorials floating around here on the boards right now. The main concern for doing the mod though is which controller ya have, the older Matrix style or the newer CG version board, since the mod isn't going to work on the CG version board without being modified.


From the controller? Not really possible unless ya were to go adding in some additional RF transmitter circuit, like a wireless doorbell, and then have the receiver gutted and wired up in the 360, really more work than you'd probably want to get into. I'm sure there are smaller setups around that will do the exact same thing though, just have to go looking for them, but there's no way to make it do it 'as is'.

just checkin out activity on this thread...amazing how many views its had! BUMP!!!

wer did u get the add-on button????

I'm having a little difficulty mapping new momentary buttons (and a switch) to the right and left thumbstick.
I've soldered points to the ones shown in the pics and the right thumbstick mapped button works, but the left thumbstick switch has an effect on it. In addition the left thumbstick doesn't seem to work at all.

What I have

Momentary switch mapped to right thumbstick soldered to points as shown in diagram
Momentary switch and toggle mapped to left thumbstick soldered to points as shown in diagram

Does it possibly have something to do w/ two switches going to the left thumbstick? Since they are normally open I would have expected that having either in the ON position would have worked.

Any ideas would be great and thanks for the detailed pics, it has made this project 1000 times easier.

~telengard

@ telengard - Having the switch and extra button both on there wouldn't cause that. If you're saying the Left Stick isn't working at all now remove the switch and new button ad make sure it still works normally, then add one and test, I'd do the new button first, then add the switch and test it.

Hi there,

I didn't think it would matter but I thought I'd check. Yep the left stick isn't working and I've "pinned" both switches out. What's weird is it did have an effect but not activating the left thumbstick button. When I would engage the switch I could no longer activate the right thumbstick.

I have a wireless one if that helps. I initially was following the pictures at the beginning of this thread and then started using what I believe are your recommendations RDC of where to solder to for the left and right thumbstick.

~telengard

Sorry I didn't read trough all the 15 pages but would this work on the new wireless CG controllers?

Yes and no. You can add extra buttons, but they have to be soldered to much different places.

Is there any diagram or any tut for adding extra buttons to CG controllers?

They're all traced out in the Tutorials section. The Wireless CG board is a bit more difficult to do than the older Matrix one since it doesn't have much trace run between the contacts and IC, and no parts on the lines or easy TP spots to hit. Your options are soldering onto the Vias or the IC legs, and if you're not fairly good with the iron and removing the masking without damaging the Vias you'll end up with a crippled controller for sure.

ok thanks.

could i possibly use this mod to make it so that when i press the b button my xbox thinks im pressing rt

If ya cut the right traces and wire it correctly, yes.

and does ne 1 know what traces to cut and how to wire it because i bet in callof duty i could shoot faster with b as the trigger

Depends on the controller you're doing it to, there are 2 versions of the Wireless M$ brand controller now, and each has it's own method for being altered like that. You'll also loose the B button function during this mod, swapping it to the RT would be way too much of a hassle. Adding an additional button to take up the B button function would be the best way to go about it, so ya have RT as RT, B as RT and a new button mounted wherever for B.

The links for the buttons at "mouser" no longer point to anything. Does anyone have a part number or new link?
I am modifying a controller for my kid who got in an accident and has limited use of some of his fingers.

I use the 688-SKHHQV at Mouser, they have a ground terminal on them but you can just cut that off.

The ones without the ground terminal are the 688-SKHHBV.

hi guys i love this tut and this is my second time doing this mod and im putting a little twist on it this time just with different buttons. im using psp buttons and have an extra board from a third party xbox 1 controller the board itself is just a small d-pad board and and theres 4 buttons on the baord and 1 ground now im doing a 2 button mod replicating the "A" and "B" buttons. okay so when i solder just one button ("A" or "B") it is fine but when two are hooked up the buttons wont function im completely puzzled and it has to be a ground problem and i dont understand why it wont work if they share the same ground?? so my question is if it wont work with sharing the same ground how wold i make another ground for the other button?

Only the CG version of the Wireless board is Common Ground, while the Wired CL board is a Common Line (same thing essentially, but voltage instead of ground) The older 'Matrix' style boards are not common anything and if you're using either of those that's the problem as A and B have a different second line. It takes 4 lines in all make up those 2 buttons where as on the CG or CL boards it's only 3.

Either use one of the newer version boards, CG or CL, or you'll have to cut the common line on your extra board you're using there and make up a separate line so ya have 2 wires for each set of button contacts. Can't even begin to tell ya how I'd go about that part of it since I've no idea what it is you're dealing with exactly, pics would be nice.

alright sorry but the digi cam i have isnt here and i tried to use my phone but no luck lol so i drew this half ass picture in ms paint hopefully it gets the poit across in the first picture is the actual board i salvaged from an old fat xbox 3rd party controller the board is actually not part of the main board it was by itself and made it very easy to use.



so since i only needed to buttons and to save me space i cut the board in half like so. also the board had five wires from the back (not drawn lol) for top,bottom,left,right and ground. at first i didnt see anyproblem being a begginer and all and i noticed someone say that they used other ground points and it did not work and they had to use the ground points in the diagram. so i was stumped and then after i posted i had an idea to break the track (brown on the picture lol)sharing the ground and use the wire that came from the ground for "A" and shave the track on "B" (black wire and wut kinda looks like my solder on the broken track) and was almost positive it would work and it did not. hopefully u can kinda understand me with these crap drawings RDC and from wut ive seen so far ur a legend on these forums and its an honor to get ur help.

ok my bad didnt scratch the track down far enough, idea did work! lol thanks again tho

p.s tried to edit my post but couldent.

Kool deal man, that's exactly what ya needed to do anyway. Get some pics of it when you're all done an have your cam back.

There's a 15min time limit on editing your post.


The older Matrix style boards are a nightmare for beginners, I spent a few days tracing all that crap out and used more than a few pages of graph paper until I figured out what it was M$ did with the buttons on those things. These newer CG and CL boards though are just too easy to mess with though and setup so ya can almost just look at the thing and tell what is what, and ya really can on the CL board.

hey ye it doesn't look like im getting my cam back anytime soon i gave it to my sister for traveling across country for 6 months but anyways i did the best i could with my camera phone. so here they are!





i just bought another 3rd party controller found one at my local game store used fore like 2.50$!
so now i have another d-pad board stand alone so im gunna wire it up to the huge dpad on the 360 controller and put the psp dpad on it! i dont know about u guys but the dpad on the 360 imo sucks.

Hello all! I'm new to modding but I would like to give it a try. I have a question though. My son has a life threatening muscle disorder which limits the use of his hands, especially the strength in his hands. He loves playing Call of Duty 4 but has some trouble sniping. It is difficult for him to click the left stick button and hold it to take a deep breath, while holding the left trigger to bring up the scope. I was wandering if it is possible to combine those two functions into a single button. So, in other words, combine the left stick button and the left trigger into a new single button. And if it is possible, what would it involve?

Heres the background, I have a buddy who just had shoulder surgery and I've been trying to reroute a few things. Specifically Left trigger, shoulder and thumbstick click.

Everything seemed to be fine until I made a noob solder mistake and fried the controller for the moment.
I'll work on that in free time, but today I picked up a new black controller. I'm having a hard time trying to find TP6 or an equiv, so that I can add the thumb stick click.

We had issues with up/click on the thumbstick with llamas spots so I'm guessing the Tp6 location was the right spot.

If anyone could help me out with the pinout for left thumb click on one of these newer boards that would be great.

Heres a pic
http://pxn.ca/360cont_tp6.jpg


Thanks all for another great thread.

That really depends on the controller and version of it you're dealing with. There's no reason it can't be done, but without knowing what exactly you're working with there's a few ways you could go about it. If you've never messed with anything like that before ya may be in for a bigger mess than ya plan on too, but it's something that's perfectly doable.





That board version is all traced out HERE. There isn't a nice TP spot for the LSC, so whatever you're going by sounds to be all wrong or for some other version of board. Also the Triggers on that version board there go high instead of low like on all of the other versions, so that needs to be looked out for versus whatever ya were doing before. Moving any of the buttons around to any other button is easy as it's all common ground.

Since everything I've read so far makes it seem that the new boards are harder to MOD, I'm going to try to get my hands on a wireless controller with the old board. Plus I think I've talked my son out of combining the Left Thumbstick Click and the Left Trigger into one button. Instead, I'm just going to make one button for the Left Thumbstick click and one for the Left Trigger. Do you know of a good push push button or latching push button that I could use?

With the original setup he wanted (LT + LSC) having either of the newer version boards would make the mod much, much easier and could be done as simply as using a DPDT switch. I'm sure there are some DPDT latching switches or push button ones that would work, though the insides of the controller are a tight fit for most alternate buttons/switches, just depends on what ya can find. If I were to do it there is a DPDT Toggle switch that I use that's small enough to stick in a good many places and is still DPDT, thing cost about $6 too but it's worth it.

This is just one example of where ya could mount the switch. As long as the switch is flipped it would be scoped in and breath held (about 5 seconds in game) until that time limit runs out and then it would stay scoped in but moving all over the place while the player catches their breath (about 7 seconds) and then it would go back to holding their breath again until the switch is turned off.

Um.... I clicked on the link to mouser.com and I still cant find the buttons I need. Can someone help me with a link. Thanks!!!

You should try reading thru the thread then, there are 2 in post #236 and they both still work.

Deleted. Given up.

say i wasn't actually going to use the normal buttons but i wanted to use the added buttons on the back of the controller, could i just scrape off the black on the buttons and solder a wire to each side and to a new button.

Yes that will work, cheesy, but it'll work.

Wat r the specifications for the buttons.


How come soldering to the black spots didnt work