Any momentary SPST switch/button will work.

Solder doesn't stick to that coating of material, ya need to scrape it away and expose the copper trace underneath it and solder to that.

I have gotten the A button to work but it is a different button, The buttons/switches have to be normally open right

SPST, Momentary, N.O. (Normally Open)

Hey RDC I'm the guy that did those 2 psp buttons on the back of the 360 controller a little while back. well when i was doing the d-pad mod i messed up the solder contact to the up d pad button im pretty sure i scraped down to far because the solder wouldn't stick. now the the up direcyion wont work and im just wondering if there is anyway to fix this? thanks again for you're time man.

Man, if that's the Matrix version board and ya forked up the one Via you'll hate the fix for that if you're trying to get the 360 D-pad functional again. Plus the fact there are much, much better places to attach the wires to on that board for something like that in the first place. I'd have to see the actual damage to tell ya what was what for sure though. If you're still installing the other D-pad and just after getting back on that line though ya have plenty of other options.

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=581887

Well I guess unluckily for me i do have the older matrix style controller. all the damage is, is that the solder point on the ring that i had to scrap down to get to the copper for the ground on the up d-pad button. you were saying something about easier soldering points to get the d-pad functions on an older board right? because i dont need th d pad to work on the main board i just need the extra d pad buttons im making to work because the original d pad will not be used.

Click the link in my previous reply, it'll take ya to what ya need.

RDC, i've transfered the A X B and Y buttons to the back of the controller and every one works except for my B button. I have checked the solder connections to the copper behind the black spots and it is good. I have switch the button to see if that was the problem, but that didn't work. Could u help me fix this problem? Could it be that i scraped away the solder connection used in the tutorial. Is there any way to fix it

oh yes i did follow the link. i checked them all out and was relieved but my question mainly was if the pad up is not working because i scraped off to much copper will is still work if i rig up my new button to the soldering points at the back?

@ tense lion - Yeah it would still work, you could obliterate the black contacts on the top of the board if ya felt the need to, so long as the lines are still on the board somewhere for ya to attach wire to and get them to connect you can still make the button work.


@ sickels25 - For the B button try some other spots, you can actually get a solder connection to stick to a board sometimes and have it make no electrical connection whatsoever. If the B button lines haven't been damaged between where ya have them soldered and the main IC then they should be working, so the only thing left would be the connection you've made or the wire ya used, maybe one is broken inside.

anyone know what pins I can use to get rapid fire on the "A" button? i have tried the 2 from the first post but it must share a common ground because it is also triggering down on the dpad is there anyway to get just the "A' button? I am using an old style board, thanks

The button layout of the Matrix board doesn't work like a common ground or common line controller, or anything like the Triggers do. Ya have to actually connect the 2 lines that make up that button to get it to register as pressed. The only way to do what you're after is to use a 4066 IC (Quad BiLateral Switch) or something similar so it can connect those 2 lines, your R/F circuit will turn the 4066 on/off and it will connect the 2 lines and press the button.

You'll also need to make sure ya use the LV (Low Voltage) ones as the 2.5v-3v from the controller will give ya issues with the standard 5v + ones.

I have a working 555 timer, as well as a programed 12F683 PIC. When ever I enable the timers it also is triggering down on the dpad.

Hello all, I wanted to add 2 buttons to the bottom of my wireless controller, similar to what Gopokes7 did, and have them act as the A and the B buttons for my M$ wireless controller. After reading through all of the posts, I think RDC's method of soldering onto the bottom of the board will be easier than Jeremy's of soldering onto the top of the board. However, I must admit, I was a little bit confused with the diagrams you had up for the bottom of the board. Does this diagram make sense to for how the A and B buttons work?



I've done some soldering of tiny pieces onto PCB boards, but not a lot, and nothing with controllers, so I'm hoping I should be able to do it without too much difficulty. I ordered a few of the 688-SKHHQV buttons from mouser.com and plan on stopping by Radio Shack soon to pick up a 15-30W iron and some 30awg wrapping wire if they have it, otherwise I'll order some.

Do you recommend gluing in the buttons and soldering onto the board before hooking the wires up to the buttons? Additionally, how can I tell if my controller is a matrix set up or a common ground set up? I saw some discussion about the two, but I'm not sure which type I have and which version that diagram above is for.

Thanks to Jeremy for creating and RDC for taking over this thread and helping out so many of us!

That pic is from the Matrix board and is one way how you could go about making duplicate A/B buttons, so yes it is how they work.

If ya install the buttons first or wire it up first it really makes no difference, ya end up at the same place. Ya should drill the holes for the buttons and make sure they're not going to interfere with reinstalling the board/motors first really, but there's no need to glue them in place just then, but if ya want to wire them up and do it then ya can if ya like. You'll know which controller you have either once ya have it apart and it looks nothing like that pic, or ya take the time to go thru the Tutorials and look at the different board versions in there.

How can I make a rapid fire right trigger for a wireless controller with a button.

Wire the button up and push it really fast.

If you're talking about the half tested method of wiring it to the LED then it's over at the AcidMods forums. It HAS to be the Matrix version of Wireless controller and the batteries HAVE to be the PnC pack or some slightly run down AA ones. It does NOT work with new AA batteries or if the PnC cable is plugged in, therefore not a 100% effective R/F mod.

There are plenty of threads on this forum as well on how to go about making a R/F controller, keep that kind of question in one of them, this isn't the thread for that type of discussion.

Yo RDC just droppen by to say thanks again for ur help i finally finished that d-pad mod i have been doing forever. right after i used the alternate soldering points and made the up button work the contacts went to hell for my left button too.. but i could fix it again thanks to that other tutorial and hopefully i could bum my buddies camera to take a couple pics to show u my mod sometime.

You're Welcome, and looking forward to seeing it.