I finally got around to making this tutorial for duplicating any button on the 360 wireless controller. I know the quality of it overall is crappy but it will show you how at least...lol This first picture is a top view and has nine different numbered sections.


SECTION 1

In this picture you have the contacts for the "a" button. There are two circles, one red and the other yellow. each color goes to one side of your button that you will add. now when the new button is pushed the red and yellow connect making the "a" function happen.


SECTION 2

this section is for the "x,y,b" buttons and is the same setup as the previous, the only difference is that all three of these buttons will have a common connection on one side. The common point is circled in green. So if you wanted to add and extra "y" and "x" buttons then each button would have the corosponding red circled connection going to one side of the two new buttons. the remaining prong on each button will be connected to each other, then connected to the common point. I hope this all makes sense,...Im not very good at explaining things like this.


SECTION 3

This section is the same as the last one and is for the "start" and the "guide" buttons. The common connection on these is a T in a trace and is difficult to solder to, but can be done. The circle with "St" is for the start and the circle with the "G" is for the guide.


SECTION 4

This section is for the "back" button. You will need to solder to the end of a very small capacitor for the red connection....the other is marked in yellow.

i love you

Another nice tut from you. Nice job.

didnt really want to make a new topic for this but does anyone know if i can take the joysticks out of a original fatty controller and put them on the wireless xbox 360 controller? thanks. btw nice tutorial. could be of some use later (like moving the RB and LB buttons to above the a,b,x,y buttons for playing XB1 games on the 360)

I don't really understand what the point of this was...

So you can reposition all of your buttons, or add new ones. Makes it easier to play Halo.

Did I mention I love you jerry?

lol...Im glad you guys were waiting for it! The forums crapped out in the middle of posting this thread so now I have to add the last parts of the tut under all these posts....hahaa So I will start of where I stopped.
Also the old thumbsticks should fit right on the the analogs for the 360 controller.

SECTION 5

Same as others...just add the button to these contacts. This is for the up directional pad


SECTION 6

right directional pad


SECTION 7

This section is for down directional pad. Use the red and yellow contacts. The purple is an alternate point for section 8...its easier to solder to.


SECTION 8

This is the left directional pad. the yellow contact on this is the left side of the resistor that sits there. You can also use the purple contact in the previous section in place of the yellow contact in this section.


SECTION 9

These are the buttons for the left and right bumper buttons and the wireless detection button. same as before yellow and red to the buttons.


SECTION 10

Thought I would add these in.....the left and right thumbstick click buttons



If I left anything out or if just have questions about any of this, feel free to contact me on AIM as ViciousControlrs or here through PM. If this helped you give it a bump so everyone gets to see it!

I don't think you could make new ones, but it does give me an idea.
What if someone could take these cables and hook them up to the serial/game port on the back of your computer and use a program to send out the commands and have the controller relay them to the 360. Would that work, cause now that I think of it the signals the computer sent would probably messup with the way the controller is designed. I don't know, I'm just typing as I'm thinking and this isn't a fully thought out idea.
EDIT: Oh, I see what you were saing. You could add an "X+Y" button or something like that. Yah, that would be cool.

I have a question about the second part of your post. What are the red and yellow points? Is one the ground?

I'm assuming one of those wires in each set is a ground, so couldn't you have every button have a common ground?

the yellow is assumed the common ground, but I think someone said it wasnt working connected straight to ground. This way I know works, so thats how I wrote in the tut, but im pretty sure it will work that way. play with it, you can't hurt the controller by trying.

Thanks again for another outstanding tut, jeremydammit.

And that is correct, if you connect straight to ground on the pcb board, it will not work. I first did it this way (before this tut was posted), and pulled my hair out in the process because i couldn't figure out why it was not working.

I since then did it exactly as jeremydammit tut has it, and now works perfectly.

hey jeremy, you know of an alternate point to get power from in the controller? I tried putting LEDs in and they stay on all the time, this is in a wired, but if i follow the llama tutorial, it always stays on. when the controller is plugged into the xbox. figure you might know this since you figured out all the points for the buttons.

I have not looked into adding leds yet because the cases for the controllers are not clear. But once I take my controller apart again, I will try to find out what can be done. The controller has power all the time because you can turn the xbox on and off with the controller. There should be a way around the led problem though. if worst came to worst, I guess a person could put in an on off switch I will also check into that trace repair for you bong, but is the trace on a wired or wireless controller? I have not looked at my wired controller yet to see if a lot of the button traces are the same.

Here is the mapping for the leds of the WIRED 360 controller. I will check my wireless setup once I take it apart again and post the same type of picture for its led mapping. Also I checked all the test points on the 360 wired controller and it has the same amount of power to every test point on or off. So as of now there is only adding a switch for turning any added leds to the controller.


Also, I don't know if anyone is interested, but I was thinking of making my personal controller a little different. I am disabling the bumper buttons on my controller and making them in the location of the black and white buttons on the old xbox s controllers. I always hit those damn bumpers when I don't want to and they are a pain in the ass to hit sometimes

wat r those buttons for

He replaced the bumper buttons with those that are in the same place as teh white and black ones from the Controller S.

great idea!!! totally awesome, thanks!

Cool, another great idea (will i ever be able to play games with my controller, instead of continually modding it? lol).



Now all i need to know is how (picture with where to cut the traces and where to jump the wire to) to swop the analog click buttons, and i'd be set.


This lefty will not conform to the right handed world, damnit.!

^look on the first page of the thread for the stick click buttons

I'm aware of that, that is why i wrote: "picture with where to cut the traces and where to jump the wire to".

I will get on that for ya bud...I need to desolder my trigger to get to where the traces are located. I need to start there, I will most likely have a place to do this mod without mangling your trigger assembly.

You're awesome, jeremydammit. I cannot thank you enough.

Need................help...................bad..............

sorry bud...lol Im on a 10 day vacation now, so I will get that all made up for you

hot shit.




Ive used these buttons before--never really found them to be useful except for a low-profile power button...until now. Where do these come from again?

I'll be doing the same thing with them as jeremy, bringin back the black and white on one of my controllers, now i just need to figure out buttons to use for my jump and melee underneath. The ones i prefer for the S controllers dont jive the way i would like them to with the 360 controller, i need buttons that will allow me to keep at least one of the rumbles in there (I always like to take out one)

The thing about the rumblers in the 360 controllers is they are like the duke rumblers, they are both the same size with different weight spinners. The S controllers had the big & little rumbles which made it very easy to keep a minimum of rumble functionality and still fit the extra buttons exactly where you wanted underneath. I need to start trying out all sorts of buttons again! Where online can i find a good selection, and does anyone have any recomendations for momentary pushbuttons which have a small installation footprint and comparable size & feel to the A & B on the top?

Also, is it possible to hardwire a usb B port into the top of our wireless controllers for a homemade play & charge kit (likely only a play & play kit...im doubting there is a compatible charging circuit, if any, inside the wireless controller that would allow us to charge our rechargeable AAs in there. Thats the next mod i need someone to design for us)

props to jeremy, lord of all things controller.


PS -- try putting duke sticks on your 360 controllers, it DEFINITELLY feels like the mini-duke its supposed to be. I never liked the duke sticks on the S when it came to function, but i do prefer them w/ the 360

What do you use to scrape away the shit on the contacts for the soldering points?

thanks for the imput guys. I use these buttons on every controller button mod. they also can be installed with the rumblers still in with a lil modding inside. I use and exacto knife with a perfectly sharp point to do the scraping on the contacts. I also recomend scratching the surface inside the controller where the hot glue will be attatching . This gives the hot glue something to really attatch to for button mashing fun. The charge and play idea is a good one and is work dismanteling the kit. As you said it most likey won't work, but we'll sure the hell try right?? Ohh and I get the buttons from mouser.com hit me up if you have trouble finding the right kind Love you guys and keep bumpin this thread so all get a chance to see it since there is no search function now!

I was hoping you wouldnt say mouser...I always have a hell of a time finding anything there. The catalog is well over 100 mb last time i downloaded it, and the pictures dont give a very good representation of the pieces in 3 dimensions. If you have the part number for those small buttons you used, that would be great, but im still going to have to find buttons a little bit larger with more "give" for my a & b underneath. I really need to get one of those 6 or 8-way switches so i can switch actions for the buttons i install depending on game (jump & melee works w/ H2, but i want jump & duck for Q4, and melee is yet another stick/click for CoD2.




life is rough.

Thanks your the greatest!!!! I do have a question though? Is this setup work for both wireless and wired controllers? and is there much room to add the tack buttons? I have done ths mod to all my origional xbox controllers and want to do it to the 360 now. Do I do the same soildering procedure as the origional in other words soilder the wires in the holes? Thanks again for adding this tut

heres where you get these buttons

http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=di...e_pcodeid=68800

Has anyone figured out how to swap the left and right triggers yet? I am very interested in this mod and have tried it myself but failed. If anyone could help me out, that would be great.

you just need the left trigger to do what the right one does?...if so it is easy really. is it on a wired or wireless controller?

soooo, how do you mount these things? I figured they were threaded, but they dont seem to be. I'll probably get a handful of these, any other switches from mouser anyone has to recomend?


I'd like to get a nice variety of switches i've not used before, I need to find my new favs for 360 controllers.

to mount these buttons, just drill a hole with 5/32 drill bit.....i usually scrape the plastic around the hole where the glue will be with an exacto knife. That way when you glue the button in, it will have an abrassive surface to stick too. put the button in the hole....hot glue on side of the button and look at the out side of the controller to make sure the button is centered in hole(not touching on any sides) once the glue dries, and the button is firmly centered....you connect the wires to the other half of the button not yet glued. then just glue over the whole button and let it set up....done

Alright, i ordered about 30 since they were only a quarter a piece. I hope to add the black & white like you did, as well as A B X Y (two on each side, underneath). I only want to keep the small rumbler, but I'll probably move it to the left side since i will only have added the two buttons underneath on that side. We shall see.

thanks again, jeremy



cheers

cool man, im glad i could help ya out. also when drilling the holes be sure that you kave looked to see there is room for the buttons. The trigger assembies get in the way if you go too high.

Yes, I need the left trigger to do what the right one does and vise versa. I have a wireless controller. I already screwed one up, hopefully you can help out with a diagram or something. Thanks.

First off this tut is the best thanks jeremy!! I made a few of your S-Controller button MODS. Anyway I followed the tut for the "A" and "B" buttons and know the two do not work and neither does the two buttons I added undernieth. I checked to see if a trace was broke and I just cant see that one is. If I touch a wire to both sides of the round pad on the board, where the "A" or "B" button makes the conection the button works and if I touch a wire from one end to the other where the points that i soildered on the board the button works? But when I try it just using the buttons (no wire) I installed or even the original buttons on the top they dont work? I cant figure this out can someone help? I took a picture but I dont know how to post it in here and anyways its huge. Thanks in advance!!!

I will try to hack a wired 360pad for my arcadestick, is it same as the wireless?
Also, do anybody know where the +5V is?

Could you tell me exactly how to swap the functions of:
1 The left bumper with X
2 The right bumper with B

I am a complete noob at controller mods, but have done a small amount of soldering, so that shouldn't really be a problem.

Thanks

Kevlar218, this should do it for you. Be very careful doing any of these mods on the 360 controllers. The contacts are very easy to lift causeing shorts and unexpected outcomes like the ones that oxi is having. In this picture you need to cut the traces where you see the red lines and then you use wire to patch between the points. So "a" connects to "b", "c" goes to "d", "e" to "f" and "g" goes to "h"...that should swap the functions for you. I think I shrunk my picture a lil too much....let me know if I need to redo it.


oxicottin, I dont really have a solution for you other than checking that no contacts have been lifted, thats what I think your problem is.

TheRealNeoGeo, no the wired is a different set up...same idea but different traces. I will try to make a tut for the wired soon.

TA Klick, the mod you want to do is not that highly recomended for a noob. It is very easy to pull the traces loose when removing the trigger assemblies. If you want to try anyway then here is part of what you need to know. if you read this whole tutorial, you should be able to figure out how this is done. This picture shows you the contacts and the traces that need to be cut for the bumpers.

I desoildered the points and put it back together and now my controller (origional) "A" and "B" bottons work. Its not that I pulled up a pad or scratched a trace. what else could it be?

I may just add tiny buttons behind the actual bumper buttons, so the bumper buttons press them, but disable the current little clicky bits, and add some other buttons like you have with the black/white buttons.

Do you reckon this would be easier or harder to construct than the previously mentioned swapping functions mod?

probably harder I would say

maybe the buttons are dammaged oxi...use a multimeter to check the resistance when you push the buttons

I checked the resentence for the buttons and they are fine. I thought it was my soildering job not getting a connection but i checked and im getting a current in my wires. Just when i soilder to the board the buttons dont work (the origionals and the added tact buttons). any more suggestions?

there are only a few things it can even be.
1)lifted/broken trace
2)bad button
3)bad solder joint
4)broken wire

i think that you may have scraped away some of the green stuff on the surrounding area of the actual contact. just thelil dot and the trace connected to it are ok to have wire or solder touching if the green stuff is gone. everything surrounding the contact is ground...so that would make it not work if your solder was overlapping or something. I really cant help you anymore on this though. I have given you all the ideas I have because I know its one of the things I have mentioned. Im sorry you cant figure it out, but keep messin with it...you fix it. If it works fine without anything added then your all gravy